April, 1890. 
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Garden Cnltnre of tbe Rose. 
LOCATION AND PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 
To obtain the best results Roses must be 
planted where they will have the full bene- 
fit of the sunlight; even in a slightly shaded 
place they never do so well. The soil should 
be dug to the depth of at least one foot, and 
thoroughly mixed with not less than two 
inches of well-rotted stable manure ; in the 
absence of stable manure bone dust should 
be put on at the rate of ten pounds to every 
100 square feet of surface ; this should be 
well incorporated with the soil to the depth 
already named. 
THE BEST TIME TO PLANT 
is usually about May 1st in this section, the 
time varying, cf course, according to season 
and location. In the extreme Southern 
States they may be planted from October to 
April ; while in the extreme North plant- 
ing may be delayed as late as middle of 
June. 
POT-GROWN PLANTS 
that have had a partial rest during Winter 
are by all odds the best to set out, as they 
are in condition to take root in the soil and 
grow at once after being planted. We are 
so firmly convinced of the superiority of this 
system of culture that we grow all our 
Roses in this way, and ascribe the uniform 
success obtained in planting our Roses (as 
compared with dormant stock lifted from 
the open ground) to this cause alone. In 
planting it is only necessary to make a hole 
a little larger than the ball of earth on the 
plant, and after it is set in firm the soil well 
around the roots, otherwise the drv air will 
shrivel them up and prevent their develop- 
ment. Never set the plants out should the 
ground be wet and soggy, but wait until it 
is fairly dry. After planting give the soil a 
thorough soaking, and should the earth 
around the plant be dry it should be thor- 
oughly saturated with water a day or so 
before planting. 
DISTANCE TO PLANT. 
The first season of planting, the Roses 
should be set about one foot apart each way ; 
the next season, if desired, one-half of them 
may be moved and planted in another place, 
as the growth that they will make the sec- 
ond year would be sufficient to fill up the 
space. 
PRUNING. 
The Hybrid Perpetual class of Roses 
should be pruned back to two or three buds 
or eyes each season ; the pruning may be 
done at any period from the time the leaves 
drop in November until April. The Tea 
Roses, however, require but little pruning, 
simply thinning out the shoots where they 
have grown too thick. 
TREATMENT OF ROSES WHEN RECEIVED. 
When Roses are received from the florist 
in mid-winter, they should be placed in 
boxes of any good, rich earth, or in flower 
pots of a size suitable for the roots, given a 
good watering, and placed in a temperature, 
if possible, not to exceed 50 degrees at night, 
although when the sun is shining through 
the day 10 or 20 degrees more will do no in- 
jury. The amount of water necessary must 
be determined by their condition — if grow- 
ing vigorously and the weather is bright, 
water may need to be applied each day ; if 
they have not begun to grow freely, and the 
weather is dull and moist, they may not 
require water more than once or twice a 
week. If there is no glass structure such as a 
greenhouse or pit to place them in, they will 
do very well placed in some light window 
facing the east or south ; in this condition 
they will bloom during the winter and 
spring. If then wanted for out-of-door 
planting, they should be planted in the open 
ground after it has been prepared as direct- 
ed, any time during the first week in May 
in such latitudes as New York, earlier if 
farther South and later if farther North. 
When Roses are received from the florist at 
the planting season they should be shaded 
from the sun for a few days after planting, 
as being boxed when sent by mail or ex- 
press, they require this protection from the 
bright sunlight until they get partly estab- 
lished in the ground. 
Roses are described in catalogues under 
the head of Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals, Hardy 
Climbing Roses and Tea or Monthly Roses, 
so that the buyer will be able to distinguish 
to what class they belong and have them 
treated accordingly, or order from such 
classes as are best suited to the district in 
which they are to be planted. Hybrid Per- 
petuals and Hybrid Teas will stand the 
winter with but slight protection (by a cov- 
ering of four or five inches of dry leaves in 
November) in the Northern States, but Teas, 
Bourbons or Bengals, which are all of the 
tender Monthly class, would not be hardy 
in any district where the temperature falls 
lower than 25 degrees below the freezing 
point. Such Roses, when grown in the 
Northern States, can be lifted in October or 
November and placed in pots or boxes, 
and if given plenty of light, such as being 
placed in a light sitting-room or in a green- 
house, will bloom throughout the winter. In 
cases where they are not wanted for winter 
blooming, we would advise their being lift- 
ed up in November, placed in boxes and 
kept in a cold cellar, giving them one wat- 
ering when they are placed in the boxes, but 
no more until they are taken from the cel- 
lar and planted in the open ground the next 
season in May, as already directed. 
WINTER PROTECTION. 
The Monthly Roses are only half-hardy 
and are therefore liable to be winter-killed 
where the thermometer falls 25 degrees be- 
low the freezing point, so that protection is 
necessary. The best way to do this is to 
bend the branches down and fasten them 
securely within two or three inches of the 
ground, bj tying them to stakes driven in 
for the purpose, or if close enough they may 
be tied to each other. Then spread dry 
leaves or rough litter over them to a depth 
of say six inches. This should not be done, 
however, until seyere cold weather sets in, 
sothat nearly all the leaves are off the plants, 
and they are thoroughly ripened, which is 
usually about December 1st, in this latitude. 
This covering should not be taken off until 
all danger of severe frost is over, say about 
April 1st, in this section. 
SUCCESS 
depends in a great measure on the care giv- 
en to the plants after planting. The soil 
should be stirred frequently with a fork, 
hoe or hand cultivator, so as to keep it mel- 
low. as well as to keep down weeds. This 
is particularly necessary during dry weath- 
er, as ground which is frequently cultivated 
will be found to retain moisture far better 
than if it is allowed to become baked into a 
hard crust; in addition to this it induces a 
development of young roots close to the sur- 
face. Care must he taken, however, not to 
hoe too deeply so as to injure the young 
roots. Another important point is to cut off 
all the flowers which are past their prime, 
as not only are they unsightly, but they 
tend to weaken the plant by forming seed 
pods; by removing them the strength which 
would otherwise be wasted goes to form new 
growth, thus increasing the number of 
blooms. 
THE INSECTS AND DISEASES 
which attack the Rose (and other plants as 
well) are usually the effect of a condition 
and not the cause — troubles of this kind 
rarely attack healthy and vigorous plants. 
It is the weakened, sickly plants which are 
the victims. The best remedy then is pre- 
vention. Keep your plants in good health 
by a little care and attention, and there will 
be little trouble from these pests. 
GREEN FLY. 
(Aphis) is one of the most common, but for- 
tunately the most easily destroyed of any 
insect that attacks the Rose, as it succumbs 
to tobacco in any form; the most convenient 
being tobacco dust, which should be liberal- 
ly scattered over the plants, first wetting 
the foliage so that the dust will adhere to it. 
This should be done as soon as the plants 
start to grow so as to prevent the insect 
from gaining a foothold, in which case it is 
very difficult to get rid of them. 
THE ROSE SLUG 
is a light green, soft worm-like insect, vary- 
ing in length from one-sixteenth of an inch 
to nearly one inch in length. There are ap- 
parently two species or varieties of this, one 
of which eats only the cuticle of the lower 
side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. The 
first is the most destructive as in a few days 
after they make their appearance the leaves 
appear as if the> had been burned. The 
remedies for this insect are given in the fol- 
lowing paragraph. 
THE ROSE CHAFFER 
usually attacks the buds and blossoms of the 
