February, 1891. 
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29 
about the same as grafting the apple, about 
95 to 98 per cent grow. We take the bark 
off the stock in grafting, not only for the 
purpose of seeing that the grafts fit and that 
they are properly adjusted, but also that the 
damp soil may come in contact with the 
inner bark so that callus may form soon, as 
well as keep the grafts alive until united, 
or roots are thrown out to support it. This, 
perhaps, is the great secret of our success, 
as we find the union so perfect that we can 
scarcely find it. The illustration shows the 
method of grafting as described above. 
WHIP-GRAFTING THE GRAPE. 
This is the same as whip root grafting the 
apple on sections of roots, as has been 
described. 
Select small roots of the grape about as 
thick as a lead pencil, cut them into sec- 
tions about two and one-half or three inches 
long and whip-graft them. The graft or 
cion should be about six inches long. By the 
same method any surplus stock of vines 
may be changed into other and more 
desirable varieties. This is often a great 
advantage, for if they could not be sold or 
planted they would have to be destroyed. 
Grafting may also be done upon young- 
seedling grapes, one or two years old. This 
kind of grafting can be done in the house 
from February until time to set them out in 
the spring, provided there are stocks and 
grafts on hand to do it. The grafts when 
put together should be wrapped with No. 9 
waxed cotton warp, and when finished 
packed away in a cool cellar until time of 
setting out. Then set them in rows the 
same as apple grafts, and give them good 
clean cultivation throughout the whole sea- 
son ; they will make good strong plants the 
first year, much better than can be grown 
from cuttings or layers. We take off the 
outside bark in whip-grafting, the same as 
should be done in all other grape grafting. 
In our next number we will describe our 
method of layer-grafting the grape. — J. 
Stayman. 
behave in different localities. The Early 
Victor here is double the size of Delaware 
in berry, and nearly as much so in bunch ; 
in quality it is quite good. Woodruff Red 
is by no means a big thing with me, while 
less than five miles distant it is very fine, 
and in quality it is better than I expected. 
Among the new grapes, Diamond and 
Empire State are my best white varieties ; 
Niagara won’t grow for me at all, 
Duchess is utterly worthless here, while in 
the North it is one of the best. Brighton is 
perhaps the best red grape I have grown, 
but unfortunately it is not hardy here. 
Neither is Jefferson hardy here, but what a 
good grape it is ! I would rather eat it than 
Black Hamburg. It will keep fresh in the 
paper bags long after the others are gone. 
I consider it the best of the colored grapes 
of Ricketts, and, in my opinion, Goethe is 
the best of Rogers’ Hybrids. Either of 
these are good even when half ripe. One 
discouraging feature in my grape growing 
is that when I get these little vines of new 
varieties from the East, it takes some years 
before I can fruit them; whether I pay $1 
or $2 per vine, or whether they are gifts 
from friends, it takes two years to grow 
wood strong enough to use as grafts, and 
then, if I am successful in setting them, I 
get fruit the following year. The young 
vine itself takes a couple of years longer, 
and many of them never bear. — S. Miller. 
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shallow or too deep, but a little practice will 
soon determine this matter. If it is cut too 
deep the tongue will be too stiff and 
unyielding, and if too shallow it will be too 
flimsy to hold the graft. 
If the stock is, say three-quarters of an 
inch or more in diameter, insert two grafts, 
one on each side, but if less, one stout graft 
will be sufficient. Cut the grafts long 
enough that the upper bud will be just 
about above the level of the ground, or a 
little above, but never under the surface. 
Slope the grafts on one side only, about one 
inch and a half long, to a thin edge below. 
Take the outside bark off from the graft up 
as high as the slope. Then cut a tongue in 
the graft (just like the scions of root-grafted 
apples are cut), about one inch and a quarter 
deep. In cutting the tongue, the outside of 
it should be a little larger than the inside, 
to make a neat fit. When inserting the 
grafts they cannot be made to match the 
stock at every part of the slope, in fact, pay 
no attention to that ; but find the place 
where they do, and push them down tight 
and firm. Then as a precaution against 
moving, wrap a tie around to keep the 
grafts in place while working about it. 
Stock and Graft Below Ground. Fig. 417. 
First fill in a little good soil below, and pack 
it down firmly around the graft with the 
hands. Then fill in about half full and 
tramp carefully around the graft to make 
it firm. Then fill up level with the sur- 
face, and put a stake to mark the place as 
well as to tie the grafts to when they grow. 
The best time to do the grafting is just 
before the sap begins to flow, or “vines 
bleed.” This time depends upon location. 
Whenever the mean temperature of the 
day reaches 52°, and remains at that for ten 
days or so, the vines will begin to bleed, and 
as soon as it falls again for a week to 42° or 
below, they stop bleeding. This condition 
takes place every spring, and we find that 
about the best time to do the work. If it 
is done, say in February, we may have a 
cold spell and the ground will freeze, in that 
case it would lift the grafts out of place, 
unless protected by covering, so we prefer 
to do the work later. We have grafted in 
April with success, for sometimes we have 
a cold spell that stops bleeding ; then we 
graft. We have succeeded with every 
kind of stock we have tried, yet if we 
had choice of stocks we know what we 
would select and what reject, as there is a 
vast difference in doing the work with ease 
and rapidity on different kinds of stocks, 
for some varieties root much deeper than 
others, and have cleaner and nicer stocks 
to graft, and of course a larger per cent, 
would grow. Our success in grafting is 
Grape Notes from Missouri. 
GRAPE GRAFTING. 
E. Williams says truly that the uncer- 
tainty in this work is the great drawback ; 
in my experience I have found, after fol- 
lowing the advice of nearly every writer on 
the subject, and experimenting on my own 
ideas, that my success of late years has 
been no more successful than my first 
attempt made nearly fifty years ago. 
A friend of mine, who has been more 
successful than any other person I know of, 
grafts just before the sap commences to 
move in the stock, with wood that was cut 
from the vines early in winter, and heeled 
in the ground. He usually takes a long 
graft four to six inches long, with two or 
three eyes, and cuts off the vine at least six 
inches under ground. 
TESTING VARIETIES. 
Mr William’s comments on the size and 
quality of different varieties surprise me, 
and goes to show how differently they 
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