44 
March, 1891- 
/ 6RCHRRb"JftHpC"OftRDE N \ 
Notes by the Way. 
Propagating bn Cuttings— Increasing Dahlias by 
Cuttings and Pool Divisions — Starti ng Caladiums — 
PmiKigating Chrysanthemums — Sowing Seeds Kar- 
ly— Raising Bedding Plants from Seed— The Lilli- 
putian Zinnias— The Proper Troitment of the Ja- 
pan Iris— To Flower Penstcmons the first Year from 
Seed— The Chorozcma a fine Winter Blooming Plant 
—The Lopezias not as wellknownas they should be - 
How to Orow Sanvitalia Procumbens. 
March may, in a certain sense, be said to 
open the busy season of the year for the 
gardener. There has all along been some- 
thing to do, but now it will be difficult to 
find an idle moment to work in between the 
busy ones. There is much to think of and 
much to do, even in private establishments. 
Plants of xiearly all kinds may now be 
propagated. As a rule, it should be remem- 
bered that cuttings of fully matured or ripe 
wood of hard-wooded plants do not root as 
readily as those made from the younger 
growth, or when the wood is about half 
matxired, or even less. Forgetfulness of 
The Penstemon. Fig. 1343. 
this causes many disappointments. Cut- 
tings of soft-wooded plants root readily. 
Cuttings of Zonal Pelargoniums will root 
when green and also when quite hard, but 
most readily when somewhat firm. Cut- 
tings of Roses root quickest when just a 
little firm ; but even the soft wood will root 
with a little extra care in shading and 
watering. There is a difference, however, 
between the Teas and the Remontants in 
these respects. 
It may be repeated here as a rule of general 
application that there is nothing better than 
clean, sharp sand for cuttings. In large 
establishments cuttings are put in on the 
“bench,” so called ; but for the amateur 
there is nothing better than shallow earthen 
pots or pans, which can be bought of almost 
any size from four up to eighteen inches or 
more in diameter. Shallow boxes are nearly 
as good. Even a common earthen baking 
dish will answer very well, particularly if 
it happens to be cracked. Put two or three 
inches of small stones in the bottom, and 
on these two or three inches of sand packed 
down firmly, and it is ready for cuttings, 
which should be shaded from the direct 
rays of the sun. 
Dahlia roots may now be put in boxes or 
on the bench, and covered with earth up to 
the crown. Placed in a little heat, they 
will soon produce young shoots for early 
cuttings, and will continue to do so for a 
lcng time. The roots may be brought 
forward later if more convenient, and this 
would be the better way for the amateur. 
The amateur, indeed, can usually get as 
many plants as he wants bj dividing the 
roots, which can be done when the shoots 
are an inch or two long. A small piece of 
tuber to each shoot will answer quite as 
well as a whole tuber. Both the double 
and the single varieties may he treated in 
this way, though the single varieties are 
often grown from seed, choice named vari- 
eties being the exceptions. The Dahlia is 
becoming popular again. There are few 
better flowers for the exhibition table. 
Fancy Caladiums may be stai'ted this 
month, or early in April. The tubers may 
be placed in chopped sphagnum moss or in 
sand, and will need warmth to start them. 
The tubers maybe divided as soon as growth 
begins, and potted in a loamy soil with a 
libei-al addition of leaf-mould and sand. 
They are moisture-loving plants. Many 
amateurs fail in preserving these tubers 
during the winter, and consequently buy in 
the spi-ing such as they want ; and it is 
fortunate for such that these beautiful 
plants can now be bought at a reasonable 
price. The large-leaved plant commonly 
called Ca adium esculentum does not belong 
here. 
Chrysanthemums may now be grown 
from cuttings, and also later on. They may 
also be propagated by division of the roots, 
and by seed ; but it is hardly worth while 
to sow seed unless it is known to be good. 
The simplest way for the amateur is to 
divide the roots soon after growth has 
begun. One shoot with roots attached is 
quite enough for a pot ; is better, in fact, 
than two or more. When grown in pots 
the roots should be divided every year, and 
as often as once in two yeai’s when grown 
in the open border. The old roots will start 
early or late, according as they are kept in 
a warm or a cool place. 
The seeds of many kinds of tender and 
late-blooming annuals and other plants may 
now be sown, either in the green-house or 
in a hot-bed outside. On some accounts 
April will be early enough for sowing seed 
in the dwelling house. Early sowing is the 
only way in which bloom can be insured on 
some plants, which bloom so late that the 
flower buds are killed by frost before they 
open. Other kinds, again, bloom earlier and 
last longer when the seeds are sown early, 
while some biennials will bloom the first 
year which other u ise would not bloom till 
the second. The seeds of Petunias, Verbenas 
Coleus, Phlox Drummondii, China Asters 
for early bloom, Cannas, Annual Chrysan- 
themums, Cosmos Flower, Zinnias, Balsams, 
Stocks, Castor Oil Beans, Sunflowers, Age- 
ratum, Pot Marigolds, Single Dahlias, Blue 
Lobelia, Nasturtiums, Salvia splendens, 
Pyrethrums, and many others, may be sown 
early with advantage. The gain is so great 
as to wariaut the trouble of preparing a 
liot-bed in the absence of a green-house. 
Among other good perennials which may 
be made to flower the first year from seed 
are the Penstemons, many of which are 
quite hardy. They may be classed among 
the most beautiful and desirable of herba- 
ceous border plants, and may be grown in 
groups with good effect, The seeds of P. 
Cobcea, white and purple, P. Jaffrayanus, 
blue, P. Palmeri, white and rose, and prob- 
ably others, may be readily obtained. To 
have them flower the first season the seed 
should be sown now, and the young plants 
potted off as soon as they can be handled. 
Growth should be encouraged, and the 
Sanvitalia prooumbkns. Fig. M2, 
plants turned into the boi’der as soon as the 
weather gets warm. An open, sunny spot 
will suit them best. The accompanying 
illustration (Fig. 1343) affoi’ds a good idea 
of the flowers, which are produced for a 
long time. Some splendid varieties have 
been inti’oduced within a few years past; 
but these can not be depended upon from 
seed. Later on will be given a list of these. 
The Chorozema, though not now grown, 
perhaps, as much as it used to be, is a very 
handsome winter-blooming plant, in fact, a 
carefully grown plant is seldom entirely 
out of bloom. It is also a good plant for 
the window garden till it gets to be incon- 
veniently lai’ge. It may be propagated from 
either seeds or cuttings, and now is a good 
time to do it. There are several species, but 
C. varia is one of the best, and the one most 
commonly grown. The orange red. pea-like 
flowers are borne abundantly in terminal 
racemes. It is a very tractable plant, and 
