September, 1891. 
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153 
Fig. 605, a. 
C 
1 / 
b. 
Budding Peach Trees. 
Budding may be done at any time when 
the young stock is growing quickly, as 
shown by the bark parting readily from the 
wood. The usual time for the operation is 
the latter part of August and during Sep- 
tember. In reply to enquiries we will 
briefly describe the operation. Remove 
the lower branches from the stock (a one 
year seedling), then selecting a smooth por- 
tion near the ground, make an incision in 
the form of a T, 
as shown at the (I 
left of Fig. 505, a. fj 
Loosen the bark | 
from the wood, 
either by a turn of 
the knife or with 
the thumb nail, in- 
sert the point of 
the bud; pushing it 
down to its proper 
place (see centre of 
Fig. 505, a.), and 
tie firmly as shown at the right of the same 
figure, leaving only the eye of the bud ex- 
posed. No wax is used. When the bud has 
united with the stock, which usually hap- 
pens within two weeks after budding, the 
string must be cut or otherwise removed. 
Fig. 505, b. shows the manner of prepar- 
ing peach buds. Select a thrifty shoot of 
this season’s growth, cut off and throw 
away the immature tip; cut off also every 
leaf leaving only a short stub. Place the 
edge of the budding knife half an inch be- 
low the bud, and make a drawing cut to- 
wards the upper part of the shoot, and cut- 
ting off a small slice of wood. The cross- 
cut a quarter inch above the bud reaches 
only through the bark, and is made with a 
peculiar waving motion of the knife, so that 
the edges of the bark on the bud part are 
slightly raised, thus giving a starting point 
for the separation of the bark from the 
wood. When a stock is ready to receive 
the bud, one of the partly detached buds is 
taken between thumb and fore finger (the 
cross-cut through the bark towards the 
hand), and “ snapped off.” This operation 
if properly done, leaves only the bark with 
the bud, and the wood part on the stick. 
Then insert as already described. 
Packing Fruit. 
Hand-pick peaches carefully after the 
dew has thoroughly dried off. Then sort 
the marketable fruit into two grades. The 
regular half bushel peach basket is much 
better than crates for carrying peaches and 
for very choice fruit there are smaller sizes. 
A cheap cover of slats has been recently 
introduced which is admirable for the pur- 
pose. 
Apples should be assorted to run uniform 
in size and quantity. Pack in new barrels 
of the standard size, one variety in a barrel. 
Turn the upper head of the barrel down, 
take out the lower head, and begin by pla- 
cing a tier of apples snugly with stem ends 
upon the head. Then fill up the barrel. 
Floral Notes. 
Seasonable Work. Browallia Elata or Winged Am- 
ethyst. Clematis Jachmanii. Fall Sowing of 
Pansies. Smilax. Cuphea Platycentra or Cigar 
Plant. Persian Insect Powder. Primula Ob- 
conica Poisonous. Care in the Use of Paris 
Qreen. 
September there is some 
rough as well as some nice 
work to be done. By nice 
work we mean putting on 
the “last touches” in pre- 
paring plants and flowers 
for the exhibition tables at 
the autumn shows; and all who grow flow- 
ers should do something in this way, and 
make it an occasion for both pleasure and 
profit. Where tying up becomes necessary, 
try to do it in such a way as to conceal the 
A Specimen Pansy. Fly. 831. 
stakes as far as possible. Raffia is much 
the best material to use for tying. Look 
over the Chrysanthemums, and see if the re- 
moval of a few more buds would not im- 
prove those that remain. Other kinds of 
plants to be shown in pots should also re- 
ceive attention. When the plants are a 
little backward, liquid manure may be used, 
but always in a more or less diluted state, 
according to circumstances. Pot plants 
are too often exhibited in dirty pots, which 
cast discredit on the exhibiter and are an 
injustice to the plants. A little soap, sand, 
and “elbow grease” will remove the dirt 
and the stigma at one and the same time. 
It would be well, too, to stir up and clean 
off the surface soil of the pots just before 
sending to the exhibition. These little at- 
tentions will often help to gain the prize 
you hope to bring home with you. 
Cuttings of many kinds should be put in 
during this month, early or late, according 
to the kinds. Where large plants of Fuch- 
sias and Zonal Pelargoniums are to be 
stored in the cellar, cuttings put in early in 
the month will make nice little winter- 
blooming plants for the green-house or the 
window garden. The same remarks will 
hold good for Verbenas, Petunias, Salvias, 
Lobelias, Ageratums, Sweet Alyssum, and 
a number of other plants. In many locali- 
ties severe frosts occur about the fifteenth to 
the twentieth of the month, often followed 
by several weeks of fine growing weather. 
In such localities all tender plants should 
be lifted or given suitable protection. 
* * * 
Browallia elata is a very pretty plant for 
either the green-house or the window gar- 
den. While it is not new, it is not so well 
known to amateurs as it should be. It is an 
annual, and is easily raised from seed, 
which, if sown early this month, will fur- 
nish good plants for winter blooming. The 
seed may be sown in a sunny spot in the 
border. Transplant into small pots as soon 
as the plants are out of the seed leaf, putting 
only one plant in a pot. Re-pot as often as 
needed till four-inch pots are reached, in 
which they may remain. Use ordinary 
garden soil, as a rich one makes them grow 
lanky, especially when kept in a warm room. 
The plant is small, with spreading branches. 
The lower flowers are axillary, but the up- 
per ones are produced in a raceme. The 
color is a beautiful blue. The plant blooms 
profusely under favorable conditions. It 
is sometimes called Winged Amethyst. 
* * * 
It would be safe to say that Clematis Jack- 
manii is the most universally grown of its 
class. It is certainly a charming plant and 
easily grown; but there are other varieties 
worthy of a place by its side, 
+ * + 
The early part of September is a good 
time to sow Pansy seed. Select a spot just 
a little sheltered, and make the soil mellow 
and fine. Secure a fine strain of seed, and 
sow it in drills about a quarter of an inch 
deep. The seedlings may be transplanted 
as soon as they can be handled, or they may 
be left where they are and carefully trans- 
planted early in the spring, placing the 
plants eight or ten inches apart. These 
plants will come into bloom about the mid- 
dle of spring, and remain so during most of 
the summer if properly located. For the 
permanent bed a spot should be selected that 
gets all the morning sun, but is somewhat 
in shade for the rest of the day, or at least 
during noonday, to prevent too rapid evap- 
oration of moisture. Under any circum- 
stances the soil should not be allowed to get 
too dry if good blooms are wanted. They 
will be good if they resemble the accom- 
panying illustration (Fig. 831) in size and 
form. Pansies will bear a good deal of sun- 
shine where plenty of moisture is present. 
* * * 
Smilax (Myrsiphyllum asparagoides ) is a 
tuberous-rooted plant, and is dormant 
during the summer. The tubers may be 
divided, if necessary, and newly potted as 
soon as the new growth appears. The plants 
may also be easily grown from seed or 
