52 
March, 1892 . 
' " " ‘ J'. - " '■- vvv-AW^ ^W 7 WUW , Wr . ^MWA M.»JW^ 
ORCHRRD/SIORRDENN 
' ' © 
March in the Flower Carden. 
Treatment nf Azaleas. How to Propagate Tiiber- 
ous-Rooted Begonias. Vallota Purpurea and 
Hmc to Grow It. Starting and Propagating 
Dahlias. Pilea Serpylhfolia or Artillery Plant. 
The Apios Tuberosa, Ground Nut. or Tuberotis- 
Rooted Wistaria. Daisies. 
,ITH MARCH comes 
again the beginning of 
the gardener’s l usy 
season. There is much 
to think of and much 
to do. If not already 
done, catalogues should 
be consulted, and such 
selections of seeds and plants made as may 
be wanted for the season. There will per- 
haps be less time to do this later on. Both 
hard and soft wooded plants may now be 
propagated by cuttings. There are also 
many kinds of seeds that may be sown now 
with advantage in the green-house and at 
a sunny window in the dwelling. Sow 
only as many kinds as you have room for. 
It is often the case that choice seeds are 
simply wasted by being sown too thick. 
The beauty of many plants is often greatly 
marred by growing them in such solid 
masses that neither the plants nor their 
flowers have a chance for development, 
and we thus very much lessen our 
enjoyment. We initiate this condi- 
tion of things when we sow seeds need- 
lessly thick, and in addition have our 
patience taxed to its utmost in sepa- 
rating the tiny things matted togeth- 
er in the seed bed. and the little 
things suffer too, many being lost. 
There are plants, to be sure, that are 
most effective when grown some- 
what close together in groups: but 
this is quite different from growing 
them in such solid masses that each 
plant has a hard struggle for exis- 
tence. There are other plants, again, 
that need to be grown singly, with 
plenty of space around them, to fully 
develop their beauty of form and flower. We 
must have some knowledge of the lifehistory 
of a plant before we can properly place it 
for its best development. “About this time,” 
as the almanacs put it, insects multiply rap- 
idly, and insecticides should be used freely. 
Insects, like weeds, should never be allow- 
ed to grow. There will often be young 
plants that would be benefited by being re- 
potted about this time. It is a mistake to 
allow young plants to become firmly root 
bound. They need encouragement instead 
of checking at this stage of growth. The 
propagation of Chrysanthemums from cut- 
tings may be begun now, and for this pur- 
pose the plants must be brought from their 
winter quarters and placed in a gentle heat. 
Amateurs who propagate by division of the 
roots may do so later. Old plants of Fuch- 
sias that have been wintered in the cellar 
or a cool room, if brought to the light and 
encourag< d to grow, will furnish good cut- 
tings for young plants for out door use. 
Some may have other plants that can be | 
suomitted to similar treatment. 
Floral Notings. 
Azaleas, except when they have been 
forced, should now be at their best, and 
that means great masses of bloom of almost 
bewildering beauty. Fortunately, the Aza- 
lea succeeds finely in the w indow garden, 
and has always been one of the amateur’s 
chief pets. When in bloom they need to 
be abundantly watered, and in this respect 
will not bear neglect. The best time to re- 
pot is immediately after blooming, and be- 
fore much new growth has been made. 
When propagated from cuttings, the green 
or half-ripe wood should be used. 
* * * 
If the amatiur wishes to propagate his 
tuberous-rooted Begonias from cuttings, he 
should bring the dormant tubers forward 
now. and use the voung shoots when about 
an inch and a half to two inches long. 
These young shoots should be carefully de- 
tached from the tubers by breaking them 
away. These shoots will root more readily 
than the usual cutting taken with a knife 
from a long slicot, and the tuber is not mu- 
tilated. Other shoots will take the place 
of those broken off. The Begonia may also 
be propagated by division of the tubers, 
each “eye” making a plant. The time to 
The Daisy. Fig. 1273. 
divide the tuber is soon after the young 
shoots have appeared. The cut sides of the 
tuber should be allowed to. get a little dry 
before being planted. 
* * * 
In our list of Amaryllids for autumn 
planting we omitted Vallota purpurea with- 
out meaning to do so. As this bulb, though 
an evergreen, is dormant during the win- 
ter, it can be bought now. It is too good 
to be omitted altogether. The Vallota pur- 
purea, indeed, is one of the most charming 
members of the Amaryllis family, and the 
only species of the genus, so far as known. 
It comes to us from the Cape of Good Hope, 
whence we get so many good things. It is 
an evergreen bulb, and should not be dried 
off, but watered moderately occasionally 
while dormant to keep the roots from 
dying. Imported dry bulbs can be bought 
of the seedsman in the autumn and during 
the winter. Our country cousins seem to 
have taken to this beautiful flower very 
kindly, especially those of New England, 
where it seems to be more common than 
elsewhere. One may often see fine speci- 
mens in the village garden and in the 
country door-yard, where, in the months 
of August, September, and October, its 
brilliant scarlet bloom wins the admiration 
of every passer-by. Some of these people 
grow the Vallota to a great degree of per- 
fection. Mr. Simons, at the last Septem- 
ber show of the Springfield Amateur Horti- 
cultural Society, exhibited a splendid pot 
of Vallota with twenty-eight flow^er stalks, 
and another member had a pot with eigh- 
teen stalks. There were several other fine 
specimens. These were old plants with 
large masses of bulbs, and had evidently 
been nursed with great care. 
The Vallota is not a difficult plant to 
grow. Ordinary garden loam, with a little 
old manure and leaf mould added, will 
meet its requirements. The dry bulbs usu- 
ally bought at the seed-stores should be 
treated as follows. One may start with a 
single bulb or two or three bulbs in a pot, 
planting them about half their depth in 
the soil. Use pots just large enough for 
the purpose, and no more. Place the pots 
in a cool part of the greenhouse or in the 
cellar till growth begins, when they should 
be brought to the light. The Vallota mul- 
tiplies rapidly. It should not he re- 
potted till the roots have well filled 
the pots; but in repotting do not dis- 
turb or separate the bulbs. The more 
crowded they are the better they will 
bloom. If it be desired to increase 
the number of pots, this may be done 
by pulling out some of the small bulbs 
on the surface. The object should be 
to get a large mass of bulbs, and at 
the same time keep the roots pretty 
well pot bound. Water abundantly 
when in bloom, and occasionally give 
a little manure water. The bulbs 
should never be entirely dried off. 
As some are misled by the specific 
name ( purpurea ) and look for purple 
flowers, it may be added that the flowers 
are a brilliant scarlet, and not purple. The 
flowers sometimes last long enough to make 
it an object to place the plantata sunny win- 
dow as the weather grows cool. The Val- 
lota may be (and sometimes is) grown in 
the border; but it is less satisfactory, and in 
the end more trouble, than to grow it in 
pots. It is a plant that can not be too gen- 
erally grown. 
* # * 
Beilis perennis, the Daisy par excellence, 
is one of the oldest inmates of the garden, 
and one of the prettiest, but not now as 
often seen as it should be. It is usually 
grown in cold frames at the north, but will 
bear a good deal of cold with a slight pro- 
tection. The Daisies are easily grown in 
pots, and are very desirable plants for late 
winter and early spring blooming indoors. 
Florists who grow them in frames in win- 
ter can easily lift them at almost anytime: 
and the amateur is advised to buy a few 
plants now and pot them. They do not 
need much sunshine. 'I here ale many 
