AND THE MALAY STATES 
45 
Then there were copper, ivory, silver, and gold carving and filigree 
work that would look just as well in America, but there were too many 
around. I did not see the Sacred Tooth, which is carefully guarded, 
and needs an order from the government before one is permitted to 
view it. The true believers are sure that it was once a part of Buddha’s 
dental equipment, while the scientists say it belonged to a crocodile. 
I didn’t tarry long in Kandy, but took the morning train back to 
Colombo, as I now had more definite knowledge of the typical planta- 
tions, and how to reach them, as well as letters to the men in charge. 
Perhaps, as a hint to others, I should say that when I left the hotel in 
Kandy, after paying my bill, the following servants put in a claim for 
tips ; Bedroom man, bath man, head porter, waiter, doorman, gharri 
driver, the porter who puts your bag into the train, and any other native 
who can catch your eye. 
It was early in the morning when the writer and Miguel de Silva, 
the Singalese plant collector at Peradeniya, who was loaned me by 
Director Willis, entered rickshaws and started for Slave Island station, 
on our way to Kalutara. For some distance the railroad follows the 
sea coast, disclosing the beautiful villas of Europeans, native fishing 
villages, and the blue sea itself. According to custom, Miguel rode 
with the natives, and I, in the car reserved for the whites, was not able 
to question him as I had planned. A friendly planter, however, did 
explain that the land over which we were passing was verv valuable, 
through the palms which grew upon it, that were used in the production 
of the native liquor, "arrak.” He said also that the ownership of these 
palms was most complex, one tree often being owned jointly bv as many 
as five natives. I had noticed that many of them had a wattle of reeds 
braided about the stem some six feet from the ground, and was amused 
to learn that this was to guard against thieves. It seems that the night 
climber cannot surmount this apparently flimsy barrier, nor remove it 
without making such a crackling that the owner is awakened sufficiently 
to remonstrate — usually with a knife. 
Arriving at Kalutara, Miguel appeared, and with a commanding- 
gesture secured a coolie to carry my bag, and we wended our wav to 
the "Rest House’ 5 for breakfast. As the day was already a scorcher, its 
broad verandahs, square rooms, and cement floors gave one an impression 
of coolness which was truly grateful. Here I had "early tea.” consist- 
ing of “papaya” (the luscious fruit of the paw paw tree), ham and eggs, 
bread, butter, and coffee — an excellent meal, the whole charge for which 
was, I believe, one rupee. 
