September, 1916 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
43 
Fall sown Sweet Peas at Cornell University. Seed sown in 
October; photograph made in June 
less) be in full flower. In the extreme South, 
reliance must be placed on the winter-flowering 
sorts exclusively. 
Thorough preparation of the soil cannot be 
over estimated. It insures a perfect root 
action; therefore, stronger vines, larger flowers, 
more flowers on a stem and a prolonged season 
of bloom; and where possible run the rows 
north and south. 
The soil should be turned over to a depth 
of at least two feet, and if the immediate 
ground for the rows only is to be trenched, it 
should be two feet wide — though three feet 
would be better. Throw the top soil to one 
side and the lower spit to the other side of the 
row, unless (which is unlikely) it is equal in 
quality. Loosen up the bottom with a dig- 
ging fork or pick, afterward working in any 
old decayed garden refuse or long strawy man- 
ure. Put back the poorest soil, incorporating 
with it almost equal quantities of well rotted 
manure, failing which leafmold may be sub- 
stituted; but should it have to be used, double 
the allowance of commercial fertilizer. 
In addition to farmyard manure, super- 
phosphate of lime or acid phosphate should be 
dug in at the rate of two ounces per yard of 
row; and bonemeal, wood ashes, or sulphate of 
potash in the same quantity. Previous to dig- 
ging the ground if the soil be deficient in lime, 
give the entire surface of the patch a dressing 
of freshly slaked lime, at the rate of about 
twenty pounds per forty square yards. 
Trenching should not be attempted while 
the ground is in a sodden or very wet con- 
dition, particularly on heavy and clay soils. 
When completed the ground should be made 
fairly firm by treading; the soil will in the 
course of the winter naturally become con- 
solidated. 
After all the initial trouble of preparing the 
soil it is essential that we make sure of having 
perfect seed germination. Unless conditions 
are just right, all white seeded Sweet Peas and 
also some of the varieties having flowers of 
lavender, blue or mauve are apt to rot. This 
may in the majority of cases be avoided by 
following either of the following methods, 
(i) For sowing in single rows, make a furrow 
with the hoe, three inches deep, and fill in with 
clean sharp sand. Make the furrow over 
again, two inches deep this time (m the north 
where the mulch system will be followed take 
out the furrow four inches deep, filling in with 
sand; then remake the furrow three inches 
deep, cover with three inches of sand) and 
proceed to sow the seed. Space them two 
inches apart, cover with sand and make firm 
with back of the spade. The alternative 
method consists of spreading the seed on the 
top of clean sand (which may be in shallow 
boxes) after it has been w’ell watered, and 
covering all with newspapers, which must be 
kept damp. Put in a frame, cool greenhouse, 
or window and as soon as the seed shows signs 
of sprouting sow in the usual way. 
The hard seeded varieties present a differ- 
ent problem. They may lie dormant in the 
soil for months before germinating unless 
treated in same way. This class includes 
many of the crimsons, the large plump seeded 
pinks, etc., and they may be treated as fol- 
lows: Soak overnight in warm water, and any 
seeds that do not show any sign of swelling 
may have a small piece of the skin chipped out 
with a sharp knife. Another method is to 
soak such varieties for thirty minutes in pure 
sulphuric acid, and immediately washing the 
seeds in three changes of water. [This state- 
ment will probably be read with much aston- 
ishment. At the same time the author as- 
sures us it is correct. And adds, moreover, 
that his experience is that plants from seed 
treated thus grow much stronger than those 
from untreated seed. Of course, the seed must 
not remain in the sulphuric acid any longer 
than the time given, or the embryo plant may 
be killed. — Editor.] The use of sulphuric acid 
was brought about by using it first as a means 
of checking disease. 
DISTINCT AND DEPENDABLE VARIETIES 
Early or Winter flowering Spencer or Orchid 
varieties. These are now grown extensively 
under glass for winter forcing and strongly 
recommended for southern planters in the open. 
Yarrawa, an immense flower on long, stout 
stems, color bright rose-pink on cream ground, 
with lighter wings. An Australian novelty, 
that should be included in all collections. 
Other fine varieties of this type are Fordhook 
For outdoors in the South and for winter forcing in the 
North, it is essential to use only the modern Winter flower- 
ing types of Sweet Pea 
Pink and White, similar in color to the old 
Blanche Ferry, Fordhook Rose, Fordhook 
Countess (an early flowering Countess Spen- 
cer) and Fordhook King, crimson. 
Summer flowering varieties. Fiery Cross, 
bright fire-red; King Edward Spencer, still the 
best crimson; George Herbert, large rosy-car- 
mine self; Rosabella, large pure rose self; Mar- 
garet Atlee, a lovely rose pink on cream; Mrs. 
Cuthbertson, rose-pink standard, light wings, 
the finest and largest bicolor; Hercules, soft 
pink, a greatly improved Countess Spencer; 
Elfrida Pearson, an immense flowered light 
shell pink; Mrs. Routzahn, light cream-pink; 
Doris Usher, salmon-pink on cream ground; 
King Alfred, soft orange pink, very large; Illu- 
minator, rich bright cerise-salmon; The Presi- 
dent, an immense bright orange-scarlet; 
Robert Sydenham, a unique glowing-orange 
self; Cherub, primrose yellow with picotee 
edge of rose, a great improvement on Mrs. C. 
W. Breadmore; King White, pure white; 
Dainty Spencer, pure white with picotee edge 
of bright rose; Constance Hinton, the best 
black-seeded white, of great substance (but 
comes at times with .slight blush tinge); 
Orchid, the finest lavender self; Charm, pale 
lilac blush, unsurpassed for cutting; Margaret 
Madison, clear azure blue, a great favorite; 
Royal Purple, a most reliable pure purple self; 
King Manuel, the best deep maroon or choco- 
late. 
If striped and “out of the common” art 
shades are wanted, I suggest growing Mrs. W. 
J. Unwin, orange-scarlet flake on white; Mrs. 
T. W. Warren, white, pencilled blue; Senator 
Spencer, chocolate flakes on gray; Charles Fos- 
ter, a combination of salmon, amber and 
mauve; Prince George, rosy-lilac and rose; 
Dragonfly, cream, edged and pencilled mauve. 
Growing Sweet Pea seed has become a large industry in California, which now practically supplies the world’s demand. 
about two car loads 
On this one “farm” alone the crop of cleaned seed amounts to 
i 
