HANDLING CROPS FOR LATER FLOWER— PLANTING FOR CHRISTMAS AND EASTER 
R oses are now growing so rapidly that a 
little top dressing of bone meal will 
be beneficial; also keep all diseased 
^ leaves picked off and do not let the 
soil get covered with moss; watch carefully for 
mildew and use sulphur when the mildew first 
shows. Red spider must be kept in check by 
frequent sprayings on fine, sunny days. 
Snapdragon plants intended for forcing 
should now be benched if you have not already 
done so. Use the very richest soil mixture 
possible (one-third well rotted manure to two- 
thirds soil from the compost heap and add 
about one part of bonemeal to twelve of this 
mixture). Select a cool house without bottom 
heat, if possible. Get the Carnations planted 
in the benches; if put off too long, you won’t 
get any early winter flowers, and that is the 
one great asset of the Carnation — filling in the 
hardest part of the whole year, December and 
January. Violets should be transplanted from 
the field to the greenhouse or frame this 
month, giving a rich soil and keeping them well 
cultivated and all runners removed. Frequent 
applications of lime water will keep the soil 
sweet. If you want Sweet Peas during the 
early winter, the early part of September is 
the last chance to sow seed. It takes just 
three months from seed to bloom, using the 
winter flowering types of course. The other 
kind won’t do at all. Huy the very best seed 
you can procure, regardless of price, and give 
rich soil. 
Hard-Wooded Plants for Forcing. Such 
things as Genista, Acacia, Oleander, etc., 
which are to be forced, must now be gradually 
“hardened up” giving the plant a chance to 
ripen the wood. A gradual reduction of the 
water at the roots will accomplish this purpose. 
Start very cautiously, however, if you don’t 
want the plant to lose its foliage. 
Potted fruits that have finished their crops 
should now be placed out of doors and care 
should be exercised with the watering; they 
must not be overwatered or the growth will get 
soft and sappy, which is not advisable just 
prior to their dormant period. Water regu- 
larly but sparingly so the growth will ripen 
thoroughly before the resting period. 
Hydrangeas intended for forcing should be 
brought indoors and kept growing for just as 
soon as buds form growth terminates. Fre- 
quent applications of liquid manure are 
usually advisable. 
Potted Annuals and Shrubs. All the 
potted plants in the frames that are intended 
for forcing (such as the Cineraria, Calceolaria, 
Primula, Cyclamen, Daisy, etc.) must be kept 
growing now. I hey must be shifted into 
larger pots if they become pot bound and the 
shift should be made large enough to carry 
them over the winter. 
Schizanthus, Stocks, Mignonette, Clarkia, 
and other annuals that force well should be 
sown now. 1 hese can be grown along in pots 
or placed in the benches when large enough; 
pots are perhaps preferable as they give a bet- 
ter chance to shift the plants around, which is 
often necessary when a large variety of plants 
is grown in a small area. 
Prepare late in the month to pot up all the 
forcing plants that have been growing in the 
outside border (Bouvardia, Eupatorium, 
Azalea, Stevia, Wisteria, Lilac, Deutzia, etc.). 
Take care of them until they have established 
themselves in the pots after which they can be 
placed in a storage pit or cool greenhouse until 
wanted for forcing. 
When Heat is Essential. This is the 
critical time with Gardenias; they must be kept 
constantly growing now if flowers are wanted 
this winter. Plenty of plant food in the soil 
and an abundance of heat are essential; and 
spray frequently to keep the mealy bug in 
check. Fire heat is a necessity for this plant 
from now on. 
Poinsettias require abundance of heat, and 
must be kept growing vigorously. Frequent 
applications of liquid manure are advisable 
after the plants have become pot bound. 
Time to Plant Bulbs. Just as soon as 
they are received. Pots can be used for those 
that are intended for decorative work, while 
boxes are best for those that are intended for 
cutting. 1 he hardy types, such as 1 ulips. 
Narcissus, and Hyacinth, can be buried in a 
trench outdoors; the tender types, such as 
Here is a combination in the greenhouse of heat lovers, 
including Gardenias, Poinsettias, tomatoes. Chrysan- 
themums, etc. 
Lilies and Freesias, must be placed in a frame 
where they can be protected later on. 
Summer flowering bulbous plants, such as 
Achimines, fancy-leaved Caladium, Summer 
Callas, Begonias, Gloxinias, etc., should now 
be ripened up. Gradually reduce the water 
until the foliage turns yellow; then the pots 
can be stored on their sides in a cool green- 
house where the plants won’t get any water. 
Greenhouse Vines. All vines that are 
planted out permanently in the greenhouse, 
such as Allamanda, Bougainvillea, Lapageria, 
Plumbago, Hoya and Stephanotis, should now 
have the water at the roots partially reduced 
until the foliage begins to turn slightly, show- 
ing that the wood is thoroughly ripened. 
Those that are evergreen must not be allowed 
to dry up so the foliage is ruined. You can 
very easily tell by the condition of the foliage 
when you have gone far enough. Keep the 
plants in this condition until it is desirous to 
start them into active growth again. 
Many plants grown in the greenhouse re- 
quire supporting in various ways, such as 
strings for the Asparagus plumosus (Smilax) 
to twine on; stakes for Lilies and other tall 
flowering plants; a trellis of some description 
for the Sweet Peas; brush for beans and 
Freesias; supports for Carnations. These 
matters should all be attended to early as 
plants that require supporting are ofttimes 
totally destroyed by neglect now. 
Vegetables. Mushrooms may be enjoyed 
in due season if a start is made now to prepare 
the bed, by gathering the necessary drop- 
pings. The important item in the care of the 
droppings is never to allow them to burn, keep 
them watered, if necessary, until you have 
enough to make up the bed. Turn at least 
once a day during the period when they are 
being collected. 
Tomatoes must not be neglected, for if the 
wood once hardens or gets thin and spindly 
you cannot expect first class results. Keep 
the plants well supplied with plant food and do 
not grow them too warm, and do not neglect to 
keep the vines well supported. Tap the canes 
when in flower. 1 his will cause the pollen to 
fly, pollenizing the other flowers and helping 
the set. 
Beans can be sown this month; and, if they 
are sown every three weeks during the winter, 
you can have a continuous supply of this vege- 
table all winter. Merely give a fairly rich soil 
and a temperature ranging from fifty to sixty 
degrees. Cauliflower can also be had the en- 
tire winter by properly timed successional 
sowings about every two to three weeks. 
Practically every plant “heads up” in the 
greenhouse. Lettuce for forcing in the frames 
or cool greenhouse should be sown now, and 
every two or three weeks. Do not sow a great 
lot of seed at one time. 
