78 
THE GARDE N M A (i A Z I N E 
I 
October, 1916 
Roots — not the 
straggly, pronged 
kind; but a mass of 
tiny rootlets that 
every planting expert 
will tell you is a fund- 
amental point of 
transplanting success 
Thousands and Uiousands of maples, we have — 8 to i6 feet high, Choice 
stock, full or vigor. Prices are decjdedly reasonable. 
Framingham Shrubs and Trees 
Give Certain 
Satisfaction 
C ERTAIN because they are grown with 
that sole object in view. 
Vigor they have. 
Shapely, well filled tops they have. 
Roots, in compact, fibrous masses, they 
have. 
Especial care in packing they all receive. 
When you unpack them, you will at the 
start be satisfied. 
When early next spring they start making 
a good, strong, normal growth; you will be 
still further satisfied. 
As they develop in growth and beauty, 
your satisfaction becomes constant. 
An ever increasing number of our custo- 
mers are planting their shade trees and 
shrubs in the fall. It's better for their 
planting and it’s better for them. That’s 
why we urge your doing all such possible 
planting now. 
If you haven’t read the article on heeling- 
in, appearing in this issue, be sure to do so. 
It outlines and freely illustrates a method of 
getting a running start on your spring plant- 
ing, that we heartily endorse. 
Any suggestions we can make to simplify 
and give additional pleasure to your fall se- 
lections and planting; we are only too glad 
to offer. Our catalogue you are most cer- 
tainly welcome to. 
'r^k^vmgK^klti JN\irj*ericj 
WB.VHITTIER fcCO.- FRAMINGHAM.MASS 
A few shrubs for a few dollars do wonders in softening and beautifying entranceways and long 
legged foundations 
Erect on your grounds a Hodgson Portable Cot- 
tage such as this and you will always be ready for 
an unexpected overflow of week-end guests. Or 
you can offer seclusion to a young married couple 
or an entire family visiting you. Hodgson Portable 
Houses come in sections, already painted, rigidly 
constructed, and easily bolted together by unskilled 
workmen. The catalog illustrates the great variety 
of styles suitable for any season or climate. 
E. F. HODGSON CO. 
Room 228, 116 Washington St., Boston, Mass. 
6 East 39th St., New York City 
The Proper Conduct of a Tulip 
pLANT in light soil in which is incorporated i 
A plenty of humus-making material. See 
that the drainage is good. 
Fertilize annually with bone meal. Do not ^ 
under any circumstances use fresh manure in i ( 
the soil. Do not mulch with fresh manure. | ( 
Dig manure into the beds the ■'^ear before ' 1 
planting, if the soil needs it. 
Give a change of soil every three years. 
Dig the bulbs annually. 
The time to dig is when the stems can be I ( 
twisted around the finger without snapping, j ' 
Generally July 4th is about right. 
Do not plant until the leaves begin to fall. | 
Do not be afraid of planting too deeply. 1 
Si.x inches is about right for late Tulips. | 
Water must not stand on the beds in winter. ' , 
Do not mulch. Let deep planting take the it 
place of mulching. Invariably the bulbs will f 
come up through the mulch before it can be ! \ 
removed in the spring and the leaf growth will ( 
be weakened and spindling. 
Give Darwin Tulips partial shade for their i 
best development. The same applies to all 
late Tulips, but the delicate coloring of the I 
Darwins is shown to much better advantage. 1 
The blooms come larger and last longer. 
Do not plant the bulbs too closely. Six 1 
inches is the minimum distance. The leaves 
of a healthy Darwin need plenty of room; 
healthy leaves mean healthy bulbs. 
See that the bulbs are well supplied with 1 
moisture during the ripening off period. Pre- t 
mature ripening off destroys many bulbs. { 
Keep the soil loose and well stirred until the ■ 
leaf growth is too far advanced to permit 1 
further cultivation. 
Break off seed pods as soon as the petals fall. 
Store the bulbs in a dry and fairly cool 
place. Protect them from mice. 
Plant 100 of one variety rather than one each 
of 100 varieties. 
Save the little bulbs. Drill them in some 
reserve bed. They will be fine blooming bulbs 
in two years. S. R. D. 
Preparing Beds and Borders 
A “BORDER” is just a long bed, regular 
in its dimensions or not, as the case may 
be. If it is to be made in a new place, remove 
the good top soil and place it at one side. If 
there be a thick so(T, cut this off first, two or 
three inches thick, and keep it separate from 
the soil. Then take out the subsoil several 
inches deep and take it away. If the drainage 
needs to be improved, put in a thick layer of 
cinders or coarse gravel. Over these place the 
sod grass side down, leaving intervals of an inch 
or more between them. Then put in a layer 
of manure; and fill in on top of this with a mix- 
ture of loam, and manure, with a generous ap- 
plication of bone added. Use this to within 
two or three inches of the top, and finish off 
with clean, fine soil, such as you removed from 
just below the sod when digging out the bed. 
The finished surface should be three inches or 
so above the original level, unless the border is 
in a dry, well drained place. A freshly pre- 
pared bed of this kind will settle two or three 
inches by spring. 
In situations where the soil is already rich, 
and good drainage is assured, the digging out 
and filling in may be omitted, and the border 
prepared by merely enriching with well rotted 
manure and bone, and a thorough spading up. 
Beds and single holes are prepared in much 
the same way. The round beds for bulbs or 
(Continued on page 82) 
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