8^2 
T II E G A R D E X M A G AZIN E 
October, 
19 16 
(EDITION 1915-16) 
A q 6 page guide-book to the world of hardy plants. Twenty-four pages of 
pictures, twelve being in the wondrous colors of nature, together with vivid 
and accurate descriptions of Hardy Plants, Roses, Shrubs, including Lemoine’s 
new French double and single-flowered Lilacs, the new varieties of Philadel- 
phus, Deutzias, etc., make this book a desirable acquisition to any garden li- 
brary. In this book are noted the desirable varieties of Phlox, Delphiniums, 
Long-spurred Columbines, Peonies, and other plants always desirable in the 
hardy garden. 
Farr’s Long-Spurred Columbines 
These seedlings, raised from seeds of my 
own selection, produce the daintiest blooms 
imaginable, and possess a wide variation of 
color. I have a splendid collection of the 
long-spurred sorts, and an excellent assort- 
ment of the leading English hybrids. 
Farr’s Wondrous Peonies 
Here at Wyomissing I have more than 500 
varieties — the largest collection in America. 
It is not yet too late to plant Peonies, and 
Irises, but if you want blooms next summer 
it won’t do to put off ordering. 
Don’t fail to get my book “Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties.” It is full of 
planting hints for the lover of the hardy garden. 
rarr s Uelphmiums 
Are among the stateliest of a multi- 
tude of hardy plants. In the tall, large- 
flowered varieties, which I have developed, 
the blooms are unusually large — often 2 
inches across — with flower-spikes nearly 6 feet 
BERTRAND H. FARR— WYOMISSING NURSERIES CO., Inc 
104 Garfield Avenue 
Wyomissing, Penna. 
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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Garden City, New York 
low growing plants for mass effect may be 
made higher in the centre and slope gradually 
to the edges. A steep slope is to be avoided as 
water will run off, and there is danger that the 
surface soil will be washed. Be sure to get 
holes for individual shrubs and trees plenty 
large enough — and then some! The sod, if 
there be any, can be saved and placed, inverted 
on the surface after planting, making an 
effective mulch and causing the watering, if 
done, to be much more effective. 
Easy Wintering of Apples 
A pples kept in cellars over winter are 
liable to lose weight, to rot, to shrivel, 
and to suffer from the attacks of mice. For 
the want of a proper place to store such fruit, 
much of it that is valuable goes to waste. Yet 
every man who has a little backyard at his dis- 
posal can winter apples to perfection. 
In some place in the yard or garden where 
the soil is soft and loamy, but where the drain- 
age is good, dig holes to accommodate as many 
barrels as are to be buried. The place 
selected should be one which is readily ac- 
cessible in rough, snowy weather. Sink 
ordinary sugar or flour barrels in the holes, 
packing the soil moderately tight about them. 
If the apples are bought in barrels, the con- 
signment may be buried intact, provided there 
are no ventilating slits cut in the sides of the 
barrels. But the barrels need not be alto- 
gether tight; very small cracks will not matter. 
The tops of the buried barrels should be a 
few inches above the ground. A little dry straw 
may profitable be put in the bottom of each 
barrel. Fill in the apples to within a few inches 
of the top, being careful to keep their level be- 
low the level of the ground. Cover the apples 
with a heavy pad of newspapers or with burlap 
sacking. On top of the barrel, place a cover 
that will shed water; a single broad board or a 
sheet of tin will do. This cover should be ' 
weighted so that a storm will not blow it off. 
Over this, put one or two forkfuls of straw, 
which will soon settle naturally into its natural 
place. 
Pennsylvania. Archibald Rutledge. 
Storing Asparagus and Rhubarb 
Roots 
A sparagus and rhubarb, if desired for 
winter or early spring forcing, should be 
lifted before the ground freezes solid. A 
method of lifting is to insert a spade in a circle 
about each root, being careful that a large root 
ball is obtained. On four-year_ old ’asparagus 
roots the diameter of the circle made by the , 
spade should be at least 24 inches. For older 
roots the circle may be slightly larger. The 
spade should be inserted deep enough to sever 
all side roots, and it should be inserted in such 
a way that a solid mass of roots is liberated 
from the ground. 
In the same manner rhubarb roots may be 
lifted; the diameter of the circle about the 
rhubarb roots may be from 4 to 6 inches less 
than for the asparagus. The roots are gen- j 
erally piled where they can be easily reached in ‘ 
the winter. They should be piled in such a f 
way that they will not dry out, and they ■ ' 
should be covered with straw to protect from 
injury by snow or ice. 1 have found the 
woodshed and an unused hotbed very desir- 
able places in which to wdnter these roots. 
When the roots are desired they can be easily ]|i 
obtained from either location and brought 
under conditions of forcing. 
New York. A. E. Wilkinson. 
Write to the Readers' Service for suggestions about garden furniture 
