102 
THE Cx A R D E N MAGAZINE 
r 
October, 1916 
celery, ripening up tomatoes and melons which are nearly matured 
but not quite ripe at the time of the first killing frost, and developing 
partly grown cauliflower to a larger size. 
Get the frames as well as the sash snug and tight for the winter. 
Usually, the most convenient way of doing this, is to bank them up 
nearly to the top with soil or coal ashes. 
All cracked and loose glass is reset. Old sash may be made quite 
snug and tight by the use of liquid putty which can be applied very 
rapidly with a putty bulb or by a hand machine made for that purpose, 
which costs but little more than a dollar. 
Next get a good, light, rich and friable soil. It will pay you to put 
this in even those frames in which you do not expect to grow any- 
thing at present so that they will be ready for early spring planting, 
.^void using a clayey soil in frames, as quick drainage is essential to 
success. 
/^NE of the most easy grown and by far the most popular under- 
glass vegetable for winter growing is lettuce. The two varieties 
which can be perhaps most strongly recommended to the amateur are 
Grand Rapids and Big Boston, both of which do well at a low tempera- 
T . All TIT- A _ ture. Under double glazed sash I have seen 
LctttlCG All inter jt>‘ji irn'ij 
Without Heat tjrand Kapids lettuce sown in the rail yield 
cuttings throughout the winter without 
artificial heat. .About fifty plants can be put under a single sash; but 
if this many are planted at one time they should be of different sizes. 
If you have hotbeds or your coldframes are so located that they can be 
heated from the cellar during extremely cold \veather, plan to make a 
small sowing about every third week. 
J^ADISHES are very easily grown. Crimson Giant Globe has 
given satisfaction. It cannot be planted quite as close as some 
of the other sorts because the foliage is larger. The rows should be 
made five or six inches apart and the seed planted very thinly. 
Spinach will thrive at a low temperature and 
if you have a frame where a mild temperature can 
be maintained until midwinter, a crop of this 
vegetable (which is especially tender and delicious when grown in this 
way) may be had in what would otherwise be wasted space. 
Other Vegetable 
Crops 
Keans can be successfully grown in frames but should not be sown in 
the fall unless artificial heat can be given. 
pANSIES or other hardy biennials started this fall for next sum- 
^ mer’s growth, can be developed into more sturdy plants by 
transplanting to a frame than if left in the open. They will continue 
to grow in the frames long after they would outdoors, and they will 
Pansies Etc. growth again very early in the spring and be 
For Next Yei- ^ vigorous condition for early transplanting. 
Another way of utilizing a spare frame is to pot up 
some good strong strawberry plants and sink the pots in the soil of the 
frame to about one half their depth. With the protection afforded by 
the frame they will continue to grow for some time. When hard freez- 
ing weather sets in they may be covered with mulching material and 
well protected so that they will not freeze hard, and then stimulated 
into active growth in a mild hotbed during the early spring months. A 
dozen or so good vigorous plants in four or five inch pots will bear fruit 
in good quantity weeks in advance of the open garden. 
There is no more charming kind of gardening than the forcing of 
bulbs into winter bloom. Success with this work depends almost wholly 
upon getting a strong root growth before the bulb is brought into light 
and heat in the house or greenhouse to grow its flower stalks. An idle 
deep frame makes an ideal place in which to store the bulbs in the 
period during which they are getting ready to be forced. 
TT OFTEN happens a crop of cauliflower from the same seed sown 
at the same time will lag considerably behind the others in maturing. 
With a deep frame at your disposal you can take up these late plants, 
which often make fine heads, and save them from what would other- 
- wise be a total loss. Transplant the cauliflower from 
the open ground into the frame, wetting the roots down 
thoroughly if the soil is dry. Keep them shaded and the half-grown 
heads will often double in size and give some fine cauliflower out of season 
— something that will be doubly appreciated on account of the scarcity 
of such plants then. 
Any frame that you may not use this fall, if manured and fertilized 
now, will be in the very best of condition for spring planting besides 
saving you a good deal of time at that always very busy season. 
Fall Heeling-in for Spring Planting— l. 
W. C. TUTHILL 
AN OLD METHOD WITH A NEW DRESS— IT SAVES SPRING PLANTING WORRIES 
J UST why it’s called heeling-in is beyond 
me; just what its advantages are, how- 
ev^er, are not. 
It helps the man who puts off his fall 
planting until it’s too late. It helps the spring 
planting devotee, because it gives him a run- 
ning start in the fall. It makes planting losses 
less; and planting effects more effective. 
It helps the nurseryman because he can dig 
and ship your shrubs and trees at a time of the 
year when he is not so rushed; and, therefore, 
can give your order more unhurried attention. 
He has to make fewer replacements, because 
fall is nature’s time to go to sleep, and her 
children will sleep just as well in your heeling-in 
trench as in his nursery. 
It saves you no end of worries because it 
makes no difference if the shipment does go 
astray and wander around for a week or two. 
The things are not nearly so apt to be harmed, 
because it is their dormant time. Any time 
about the middleofOctober,and up to thedeep 
freezing of the soil is a good time to heel-in. 
Furthermore, contrary to the spring plant- 
ing requirements, you don’t have to be there 
yourself to see that the heeling-in is done 
exactly the way and the where, you want it done. 
Just leave these picture directions; and the 
handy-man-about-town can do it for you, 
quite as well as you can do it for yourself, 
which is saying a good deal! 
To put it briefly, this heeling-in method is 
simply buying this fall the hardy flowers. 
shrubs and small trees that you know you will 
want for next spring. Then when they arrive 
just dig a trench, put the roots close together in 
it, thoroughly pack the earth about them 
making all snug, heap a little extra earth up 
around them, so that when the soil settles, it 
Ready for their long winter’s sleep. Don’t put straw or 
leaves around them as it forms a harbor for mice and 
moles, which are apt to eat the bark and kill the shrubs 
will not leave a hollow for the water to stand in 
and freeze. Then you promptly forget all 
about them until next spring. When “Mog- 
uly starts his spring running,” and you itch 
to be out doing something go down and dig up a 
few heel-ins, and plant them. Every once in a 
while, for weeks, you can carry on the planting 
as opportunity and inclination dictate. If you 
can’t get your handy man to help you one 
week, then you can contentedly wait till the 
next, after he has finished those “few odd jobs 
for Old Man Bundey.” 
You see it isn’t like coming home some night 
and finding a bundle or a big box of nursery 
stock, that simply must be planted as soon as 
possible or be hurt by the delay. Of course, 
this heeling-in idea is as old as old; but so often 
the old things become new, when we are 
accidentally forced unknowingly to use them. 
With me it was like this: 
For several years, we had been talking 
about a row of berry bearing shrubs, that 
would lend their cheery colored berries to take 
the drear out of our winter windows’ outlook. 
We also wanted some Mountain Laurel for a 
shady stoop corner; along with 50 or so plants 
of Pachysandra for our evergreen under- 
carpeting. 
The first of last October brought an interest- 
ing looking circular from a nurseryman, mak- 
ing several fall planting suggestions. Num- 
bers 4 and 7 contained exactly what we wanted. 
So back went the order for April 1 5th delivery. 
