November, 1916 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
131 
Evergreens are liable to injury by the sun shining on the 
frozen foliage so wooden shields are erected on the south 
The Rose garden is made safe by throwing coarse litter all ■ 
through the bed after freezing weather comes 
can be applied just the same. I have also 
seen large heaps of leaves with a board on 
top. 
Perennials that hold their 
foliage all wdnter, such as the 
Brunella,Stonecrop, etc., should 
be covered well with leaves after 
the ground has been mulched; a 
board placed on the leaves 
directly over the plants will 
keep the water from going 
through and damaging the 
foliage. 
There are a number of 
perennials which are very late 
in starting in spring and oft- 
times they are considerably 
damaged or dug up entirely. 
Proper labeling will prevent 
this, or a handful of ashes or 
sand placed over the crown of 
each plant in fall will mark 
them in spring. Plants of this 
type are the Balloon Flower, Anthericum, 
Anemone, some of the Rudbeckias, Helian- 
thus, etc. 
All perennial borders should be mulched 
throughly in fall with well rotted manure; 
but do not allow the manure to rest on the 
crown of any of the plants, and do not be too 
sparing with the manure. You will get full 
value for every penny spent in this way. In 
spring this mulch should be dug into the 
border. Get it down as deep as possible; the 
accidental cutting of a few roots will not do a 
particle of harm. This is the best method 
for preventing the deterioration of perennial 
plants. 
VINES 
Many of our best vines require a little 
assistance to help them over the winter. In 
most cases it is best to take them down and 
bury them. After the mound of earth is 
slightly frozen it can be mulched with leaves or 
litter. The very tender climbing Roses can 
be handled in this w'ay; a number of the tender 
Clematis also requii’e this treatment. In fact. 
The herbaceous border prepared for winter by covering over 
with manure and litter. The manure is dug under in spring 
Here are some English Holly wrapped in straw to protect 
them from the sunshine in winter 
Tender vines on the wall are protected by wrapping in straw 
to prevent the cold from striking them 
with all flowering tender vines that require 
tying and training this form of winter pro- 
tection is practical. Natural 
climbers that climb by rootlets 
or tendrils cannot be taken 
from their support; therefore, 
strawing in or covering with 
burlap must need be resorted 
to. 
When plants only sunscald 
(as the Ivy or Evonymus) 
under unfavorable conditions, a 
covering of burlap over the 
foliage will protect it. I don’t 
believe this is necessary. If 
the plants don’t kill back and 
only the leaves are injured, 
these can easily be removed 
in spring by brushing them off 
with a stiff broom or they can 
be clipped off with a pair of 
hedge shears just as the new 
growth appears. 
This blanket of corn stalks lightly laid over tender evergreen Azaleas keeps them safely Cut Pine or Hemlock boughs placed around tender plants will afford the ideal winter 
through winter screen 
