December, 1916 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
169 
healing. That is, there should never 
be any stub left permanently, be- 
cause it will not heal over if long 
and will allow decay to enter the de- 
fenceless trunk or remaining branch. 
Even the large wound with its sur- 
face parallel to and even with the 
trunk from which the branch has 
been severed, will heal more quickly 
than the one with half an inch of 
stub, and this latter more quickly 
than one with an inch stub. 
Shall wounds be painted or other- 
wise treated to prevent the entrance 
of decay? Popular belief among fruit 
growers says no, for wounds smaller 
than two inches, but yes for larger 
ones. Yet experiments tried at var- 
ious stations notably the New York 
State Experiment Station at Geneva, 
seem to show that dressings are of no 
real value. My own opinion is that 
this conclusion is too sweeping and 
that a dressing applied as suggested 
below will be found of value. I 
make this statement because experi- 
ence has taught me that wounds over 
which new tissue develops will have 
been impregnated with decay before 
the healing was complete, and the 
decay will continue to work havoc 
beneath a perfectly healthy surface. 
Nay, further, I know that even where 
wounds have been dressed with white 
lead paint, the most favored of all 
the materials tried at the Experiment 
Station decay has sometimes done its 
deadly work in spite of the applica- 
tions. 
Therefore, I favor creosote — ap- 
plied with special care. Never must 
this dressing be allowed to touch the 
young wood, the inner bark or the 
cambium layer of cells which lies between the 
bark and the young wood. No other part of 
the wound than the heart wood should be 
touched with this material 
because creosote will kill 
living tissues and thus pre- 
vent or delay the healing 
process. The best way to 
apply it is with a small, 
short-bristled brush that 
will not hold much of the 
liquid and to press out the 
excess fluid before applying 
the brush to the wound. 
Indeed, it may be well to 
carry a cotton rag to sop up 
any possible excess that 
may accidentally be applied 
to the wound. Wounds so 
treated, I firmly believe, 
will heal more rapidly and 
more surely than others un- 
treated or when dressed 
with any of the popular 
materials. 
. Before passing to other 
problems, it may be well to 
say a word about tools 
needed for tree pruning. 
For renovation work, the 
saw is unquestionably the 
most necessary tool. Sev- 
eral styles are shown in the 
photographs and their rela- 
tive sizes indicated by the 
1 8 -inch rule. For the re- 
moval of large limbs, num- 
ber one is the best. It has 
ally I like numbers four, and five 
better, especially when fitted with a 
handle like a meat saw or even like 
that of number one. The chief 
merits of these saws are that the very 
thin blades can be tilted to fit any 
angle; swivels at each end of the 
blades being so placed for this pur- 
pose. The steel frame is heavy 
enough to give weight and cutting 
power as well as strength. Such 
saws, of course, are for comparatively 
small limbs. 
The only good thing I have to say 
about number three is that it has 
a good handle! Otherwise, it is an 
abomination; the “lumberman’s 
tooth” is too big for the weight of 
the saw and whichever side is not 
purposely being used is very likely to 
be making wounds either in the tree 
or the operator — at any rate, where 
not wanted. This is the chief prun- 
ing saw of commerce, but it should 
be relegated to the museum beside 
the rack and the thumb screw. Saw 
number six is an all steel affair that 
has the merit of strength and weight 
but is too heavy in the handle. It 
is also a very cold customer to man- 
age in winter weather. 
The next most important tool is 
the single hand shears made in var- 
ious sizes and styles. The lo-inch 
size with cylindrical spring is perhaps 
best for general use. It will cut 
living branches as large as half an 
inch in diameter, and with soft 
wooded trees even larger limbs. The 
double handed shears have much 
more power but also much more 
limited use besides being more awk- 
ward to handle. I prefer the saw 
to it. A pruning knife is a necessity, but of 
less utility than the single hand shears. The 
three large ones illustrated are the popular 
ones now on the market. 
The smallest one has de- 
tachable and replaceable 
blades. It is a convenient 
style to have where onlj' a 
small and intermittent 
amount of work is to be 
done. As to long pole prun- 
ers, there are many styles. 
1 he main objection to them 
is they are of use only for 
straggling outside branches, 
which cannot be conveni- 
ently reached othenvise. 
They are both too clumsy 
for other work and they do 
not make the best kind of 
wound. 
In all pruning of trees 
and shrubs in fruit it is 
important to know what 
parts bear the blossoms. 
A novice pruning a bearing 
apple tree would be almost 
sure to cut off the gnarly, 
ugly twigs like those shown 
on the facing page. But 
these are the very ones that 
bear most of the fruit! If 
they are removed, the best 
bearing part of the tree will 
have been destroyed. Some 
apples and pears bear fruits 
on the tips of the twigs, 
and laterally (from aux- 
Pruning knives are made with a strong curved blade which greatly facilitates the 
cutting. Note modern type with changeable blade 
sufficient length and weight to make it com- 
paratively easy running. Number two is 
fairly satisfactory for small limbs, but person- 
1. Heavy tool for large limbs. 2. Light one for ordinary work. 3. Double edged abomination. The 
saw to avoid! 4 and 5. Steel bow frame swivel saws. Excellent for small limbs and for cutting limbs at 
awkward angles. 6. All steel saw. Too heavy in handle, and too cold to use in winter 
