February, 1917 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
31 
and enduring the conditions imposed by the 
nature of the site. 
PLANTS FOR THE CORNERS 
On the corners I would perhaps choose two 
or three plants of one of these: 
Van Houtte’s Spirea (Spiraea Van Houttei), 
Snowberry (Symphoricarpos racemosus var. 
laevigatus), Weigela (Diervilla florida) in 
any of the named sorts, Lemoine’s Deutzia 
(Deutzia Lemoinei), Lemoine’s Syringa (Phila- 
delphus Lemoinei), and Flowering Currant 
(Ribes aureum). For herbs I select some of 
the very tall sorts that have strong roots and 
whose stems and leaves are not broken by 
wind, nor require stakes: Rose Mallows 
(Hibiscus Moscheutos, H. oculiroseus, H. 
militaris), and the new Marvel Mallows; 
Rosin-weeds (Silphium terebinthinaceum, S. 
laciniatum, S. integrifolium, S. perfoliatum), 
and two Sunflowers that do not spread (Helian- 
thus orgyalis, H. grosse-serratus). If you don’t 
mind the suckering roots the Japanese Knot- 
weed (Polygonum Sieboldii) is a whole clump 
of shrubs in itself all summer. Such plants as 
these take the place of shrubs only where 
foliage is wanted in summer and the space is 
to be open in winter. In most cases all corner 
planting should be shrubs. 
UNDER THE WINDOWS 
Under the windows we put some of the 
smaller relatives of these shrubs: Snow- 
garland (Spiraea Thunbergii), Early Spirea 
(S. arguta), Dwarf Mock-orange (Philadelphus 
microphyllus), Pink Deutzia (Deutzia rosea), 
Coralberry (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus), Ja- 
panese Barberry (Berberis Thunbergii), or 
whatever other dwarf species you can get, as 
B. Sieboldii, B. stenophylla, B. sinensis, etc.; 
and for yellow flowers in sun Kerria japonica 
and Hypericum aureum. Many garden herbs 
may be used, but thinking of good foliage 
and strong stems you can consider: Peony 
(Paeonia albiflora), Gas-plant (Dictamnus 
albus), Bleeding-heart (Dicentra spectabilis). 
False Indigo (Baptisia australis), and the 
narrow foliage of all the Day-lilies (Hemero- 
callis) and such Iris as the German and Si- 
berian. 
For very low foliage in small corners choose 
from: Slender Deutzia (Deutzia gracilis), 
Dwarf Bush-cranberry (Viburnum Opulus 
var. nanum). Dwarf Mock-orange (Philadel- 
phus coronarius var. nanus), Dwarf Mountain 
Currant (Ribes alpinum var. nanum); and 
stiff low evergreen perennials: Woolly Yarrow 
(Achillea tomentosa), Moss-pink (Phlox subu- 
lata), Lavender-cotton (Santolina Chamae- 
cyparissus), Rock-cress (Arabis albida), Scotch 
Pink (Dianthus plumarius), Snow-in-summer 
(Cerastium tomentosum), and Creeping 
Thyme (Thymus Serpyllum). 
THE PROBLEM OF THE NORTH SIDE 
The side with the north exposure or that 
greatly shaded by large trees or near-by 
buildings is the place of peculiar difficulty to 
the gardener, yet on this side is often the im- 
portant approach to the house. Large shrubs 
are ndt easily grown, but we want no windows 
hidden; flowers will be few. Low green foliage 
is sufficient, and if evergreen, so much the 
better. I might consider the final virtues of 
the following as fitting the shady sides of a 
house. 
On the corners a plant or two of Bush Box 
(Buxus sempervirens), or if this is not hardy 
try Shrubby Evergreen Bittersweet (Evony- 
mus radicans var. vegeta) trained to a stake 
and allowed to take the bush form. Of 
coniferous evergreens in the north for partial 
shade the best for this position is American 
Arborvitae (Thuya occidentalis) in its bushy 
forms, as var. ericoides, plicata, and Wareana; 
farther south the Retinisporas as Chamaecy- 
paris pisifera var. filifera, var. plumosa, var. 
squarrosa, and C. obtusa var. filiformis give 
similar effects. Deciduous shrubs in rather 
deep shade are not too successful for the 
growth will be straggly; but try Dockmackie 
(Viburnum acerifolium), Downy Arrow-wood 
(V. pubescens) Dwarf Bush-cranberry (V. 
pauciflorum), Yellow Bush-honeysuckle (Dier- 
villa sessilifolia), Gattinger’s Bush-honey- 
suckle (D. rivularis), and the Variegated 
Weigelia (D. hybrida var. Kosteriana varie- 
gata) whose foliage is too thin to stand full sun. 
WHERE WINDOWS ARE SHADED 
Under the windows in shady places we may 
use the dwarf forms of Arborvitae (Thuya 
occidentalis) as var. Douglasii, var. Wagner- 
iana, var. Spaethii, and var. Vervaeneana, or 
Chamaecyparis obtusa var. nana, var. pyg- 
maea, var. lycopodioides, or others. 
The best low deciduous shrub for shade in 
such a place as this is Trailing Snowberry 
(Symphoricarpos oreophilus) from Colorado, 
with all the delicacy of spray of a Maiden-hair 
Fern. You can get it of dealers in western 
plants. Use also Mountain Fly-honeysuckle 
(Diervilla Lonicera), Blue Fly-honeysuckle 
(Lonicera caerulea), or American Fly-honey- 
suckle (L. ciliata). For flowers the best 
branching herbs are Seal-flower (Dicentra 
eximia), White Snakeroot (Eupatorium urtici- 
folium, or ageratoides), Lily-of-the-valley 
(Convallaria majalis), Baneberry (Actaea 
alba, and A. spicata var. rubra); for arching 
foliage the Giant Solomon’s-seal (Polygona- 
tum giganteum) and Larger BeUwort (Uvu- 
laria grandiflora); while for broad flat foliage 
the large Plantain-lilies (Hosta plantaginea, 
H. Sieboldii, and H. Fortunei). Ferns are 
rather out of place here, for if stepped on in 
summer their beauty is gone for the season; 
but the best wear is given by Cinnamon Fern 
(Osmunda cinnamomea), and Clayton’s In- 
terrupted Fern (O. Claytoniana). 
REALLY DWARF PLANTS 
For very low plants use Thuya Tom Thumb 
and Little Gem, and Dwarf Box (Buxus sem- 
pervirens var. suffruticosa), or an evergreen 
ground cover close to the wall of English Ivy 
(Hedera helix), Japanese Evergreen Spurge 
(Pachysandra terminalis), or Running Myrtle 
(Vinca minor). For flowers the two small 
Blue Plantain-lilies or Funkias (Hosta caeru- 
lea and H. lancifolia) are sure to succeed, 
and you may add many spring bulbs and 
woodland plants in small colonies; while if 
you wish to fuss with ferns here try those 
sold as Aspidium and Asplenium. 
All this planting is considered as possible 
about a house in a small lot or when seen from 
close to it. For a proper setting as seen from a 
distance you should have groups of larger 
shrubs, as Lilacs, Mock-oranges, Viburnums, 
Hydrangeas, etc., and such small trees as 
Flowering Dogwood, set fifteen or more feet 
away from the house, allowing free passage 
near the walls and not cutting off light and 
air from the windows. This also gives room 
for the plants to develop naturally. 
The selection of plants is to be governed by conditions. Tall shrubs are out of place in fr6nt of windows; evergreens are usually only for the northern side The pictures here show 
low growing flowering shrubs in the sunny exposure with Rhododendrons on the shaded side (left) 
