26 
T H E G A R D E N M A G A Z I N E 
February, 19 17 
in spring as readily as any cuttings and one 
can soon raise any quantity. 
Another shrub that is beautiful in June is 
the Weigela. The one in the photograph, 
(amabilis) stood at the end of a mixed hedge 
with its hundreds of soft pink sprays, introduc- 
ing one to a cross-garden border of pink and 
white Peonies, Sweet Williams, Canterbury 
bells and white Lilies with Pinks in front 
and Foxgloves behind. There are several 
other standard pink Weigelas, one good white 
(candida), and as a dark red Eva Rathke. 
In July follows the “Mountain-ash leaved 
Spirea’’ really Sorbaria sorbifolia, with its 
handsome leaves and fleecy white pyramids 
of bloom that last into August. With plenty 
of food and water this increases rapidly and 
would make a handsome hedge by itself. The 
variety, stelhpeda, is said to have larger pani- 
cles, but I have never seen it. 
For the season of no flowers plant a few Snow- 
berry bushes; the Common or the Japan Bar- 
berry for a thousand orange-red fruits to every 
branch; Coral-berry or Indian Currant for the 
little dark red clusters along its stem; and High- 
bush Cranberry for bright scarlet fruits in 
showy great bunches, enduring to mid-winter. 
Many flowering hedges are not what they 
should be because the soil was not right in 
the beginning. I he kind of soil is not impor- 
tant but the quality is. Two feet of good top 
soil with a third old manure is not too good 
for shrubs. If the soil is sandy, add lime. 
Then give stable litter or leaves every fall for 
fertilizer, for protection in winter, for mulch in 
summer and for_defence from weeds. 
For a permanent planting, set tall shrubs 
four to five feet apart; medium and low ones 
three feet. Grass should never be allowed 
around the feet of flowering shrubs, but if one 
cares to lift the coarser part of the covering 
each spring, bulbs will do well here and be a 
valuable addition; as will English Daisies, 
Phlox subulata, Violas, Houstonia, Lily-of- 
the-valley, Myrtle, Forget-me-nots or the 
low growing, early blooming wild flowers. 
Beautifying so much space, being, once 
made, so handsome and permanent, needing 
so little care and furnishing decoration for 
house as well as garden, there are few plant 
formations, take it all in all, more valuable 
for the space, time and money invested 
than the flowering hedge. Plant one this 
spring! 
Planting on the Basis of Personal Needs. 
Cornell University 
H OW much of this thing shall I sow? 
That is the ever present question 
when starting in each year. Safety 
lies in plenty, but space may be 
limited, and unnecessary labor on the surplus 
over needs is expensive, or at least wasteful. 
Although amounts may change with garden 
space available, there should be relative 
proportions among various vegetables planted, 
as far as possible. On a small plot reduce 
the plantings of certain rank growing crops 
and increase plantings of crops with higher 
returns for the area covered. I he accompany- 
ing table and the diagram, for a garden plot 
40 x 50 ft., are arranged from the standpoint 
of a family of five persons, to determine the 
amount of various vegetables to plant. 
Given the amount to plant per person and the 
distance of planting, you can easily determine 
the space needed for each crop. 
Suppose, however, that your garden plot 
is larger than 40 x 50 ft. First, include pro- 
portionate amounts of the larger growing 
vegetables desired, as squashes, potatoes, 
kohlrabi, pop corn and sweet potatoes. Next, 
increase the amount of each vegetable by one- 
fifth to one-fourth, as size of the plot warrants, 
in order to make sure of a generous supply 
of each crop. If still more space is available, 
include a few crops which are especially well 
adapted to soil, cultural requirements and 
special needs, in order that surplus products 
may be readily disposed of at a fair profit. 
On the other hand, if the plot is smaller 
than 40 x 50 ft., plant less of the vegetables 
requiring considerable space and giving rela- 
tively low returns per area covered or leave 
them out entirely. Compare diagram No. 2 
with No. 1 for a definite idea of the crops 
which may be left out where space is limited. 
DOUBLE CROPS AND SUCCESSION 
Note the suggestion of double cropping 
and succession cropping in both diagrams. 
Aim to keep all space occupied throughout 
the season by planting the smaller growing, 
early maturing crops between the rows or 
plants of the larger maturing, as well as by 
replacing each early crop with some other 
crop as soon as the former is removed. Use 
the row method of laying out the garden as 
shown, also. You will soon appreciate the 
advantages of the row method over that 
formerly practised of planting each vegetable 
in a separate raised bed, namely, cultivation 
with the hand plow or wheel-hoe is possible, no 
space is wasted in paths, and moisture is more 
readily conserved. 
After determining the amount of the various 
crops to plant per family unit, refer again to 
the planting table for suggestive varieties, 
amount of seeds required, number of seeds or 
plants per hill in row and depth of covering. 
Provide vegetable plants for use where “trans- 
planted” appears in the last column of the 
table. Set the “transplants” a bit deeper in 
the garden than plants have stood in the hot- 
bed or coldframe. 
As soon as you have completed your plant- 
ing table and drawn a diagram of the plot, 
indicating the exact location of each crop, 
look after ordering the seed supply. 
TO BUY SEEDS RIGHT 
r~ Profit by placing your seed order early, 
with a reliable seed firm. Do not count on 
the local grocer. Reliable seed dealers have 
developed special strains of the different 
varieties, giving attention to earliness, pro- 
ductiveness and good quality, and you pay no 
more either! Purchase small seeds, celery, 
cabbage, parsnips, lettuce, etc., by the ounce, 
and larger seeds, peas, beans, corn, etc., by 
the quart where possible. Let the seeds 
planted from the ounce or quart the first 
season constitute a crop test. Where seeds 
planted are satisfactory keep the supply not 
planted on hand for another season or two, 
since the lifetime of most seeds is two or more 
years. Arrange for early plants, cabbage, 
celery and tomatoes with some near-by plant 
grower, unless you have space available for 
hotbed and coldframe for growing your own 
supply. 
USING FERTILIZERS, ETC. 
Have a generous quantity of well-rotted 
Hunch HennS T/anted Wry /O- SLO To //owed by rate Turnips Oh/ 20-30 
5* 
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s 
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Pale Beans 
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Late Sweet Corn H 
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Cucumbers- 
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ty Beets P la nte d Opr /S - R O 
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Spinach 
Planted 
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Lettuce 
Cauliflower 
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Planting diagram for vegetable plot 40 by 50 feet. Designed to supply the needs of a family of five 
