20 
T H E GAR I) E N M A G A Z I N E 
February, 1917 
Hibiscus with immense (lowers of white. Single early flowering Chrysan- Centaurea dealbata, a form of Sweet Sul- 
rose or crimson. Starts late themum Quite hardy tan that lasts when cut 
ful suspension. One 
of the best low-grow- 
ing, blue flowers. 
Lupinus polyphyllus 
(Lupin). Flowers pro- 
duced on long ra- 
cemes. Handsome foli- 
age. Colors blue, white 
and rose, offered in 
many strains. The 
Lupins succeed best on 
soils not over manured, 
and well drained. 
Lychnis chalcedonica 
(Maltese Cross). An 
old garden favorite of 
intense scarlet color 
which is sometimes called Scarlet Lightning. 
The most brilliant flower of its season. Of the 
many Catchflies with large flowers, L. Haag- 
eana is the best. Flowers nearly two inches 
across. Sometimes not quite hardy. 
Lythrum Salicaria (Loosestrife). A strong 
growing and effective border plant. Var. 
roseum superbum is larger flowered, more 
robust, better color, and later blooming. 
Papaver nudicaule (Iceland Poppy). Flow- 
ers continuously all summer, and is best sown 
where it is to bloom. A good fore-ground 
plant on well-drained soils. 
Pentstemon barhatus (Beard Tongue). Long 
graceful spikes of bright red flowers, re- 
sembling minute Gloxinias. \ ery graceful. 
Platycodon grandiflorum (Giant Bellflower) 
The Japanese Bellflower or balloon flower. 
May be had in two colors only. Splendid 
border plants, starting growth late in spring. 
Rudbeckia speciosa (Cone Flower). This is 
one of the finest Cone Flowers. The rich 
orange-yellow daisy-like flowers are of great 
value for cutting. R. N ewmanni is another 
name for this. 
Saponaria ocymoides (Rock Soapwort). As 
a ground cover for open sunny sites this is a 
favorite. It makes a large tuft. 
Scabiosa caucasica (Devil’s Bit). A peren- 
nial that flowers the first year from seed. It 
is like a large doubled-flower daisy on long, 
arching stems. It has great range of color. 
Var. alba is white, 
foliage is glaucus oi 
whitish, giving a gray 
tone to border. Popu- 
lar name comes from 
abruptly terminated or 
“bit off” root. 
Stokesia cyanea 
(Stokes’ Aster). The 
large handsome blooms 
are borne in great pro- 
fusion once the plants 
are established. 
Thalictrum (Meadow 
Rue). Very useful in 
the border because of 
its fern-like foliage. 
Plant looks fragile and sensitive, but it is 
really quite rugged. T. aquilegifolium , some- 
times called Feathered Columbine, is one of 
the best. 
Tritoma, (Red-hot Poker). A new strain of 
the Red-hot Poker (also in catalogues as 
Knipkofia ) is the New Perpetual Flowering. 
The advantage of this type is that plants can 
be had in flower the first season from seed 
sown early in heat. 
Tunica saxifraga (Tunica). A spreading 
tuft. For summer and fall flower. There is 
a doubled flower form. 
Veronica spicata (Speedwell). Thrives in 
an open border away from shade and flowers 
well into autumn. 
Getting an Early Start Indoors, w.c.mccollom 
FEBRUARY AN EFFECTIVE MONTH IN STARTING SEEDS AND CUTTINGS FOR THIS YEAR’S GARDEN. FORCING FOR 
EASTER FLOWER. 
T HE gardener who lets slip by the 
opportunities of the next few weeks 
can never catch up with himself 
till the fall. It is indeed now or 
never that we have the chance of pushing 
ahead indoors with the things that will be 
wanted outside as soon as the season opens. 
Bv “indoors” I mean any arrangement that 
will offset the normal cold outdoors, and it 
may be a greenhouse, or a frame, or even 
the inside of a dwelling house window, so 
long as the temperature can be had and the 
air is not too dry. And remember that when 
temperature is named the minimum night 
degree is indicated; ten degrees higher in sun- 
shine is the normal condition during the day. 
Most dwelling houses show a greater range of 
degree and the householder who essays starting 
seeds in the living rooms must give attention 
to the night temperature, as well as seeing 
that there is proper light and sunshine. All 
the vegetables and flowers mentioned below 
can be started in a hotbed now (February) and 
will surely give you a garden weeks before you 
would have it by sowing the seeds in the open. 
A hotbed can be purchased for about ten dol- 
lars and is well worth the money. 
February should be one of the busiest of all 
months in the indoors, and the work to be done 
is of a critical nature, since the season’s success 
in the garden depends very largely upon the 
way this work is performed: early vegetables 
can be sown, cuttings of bedding plants 
struck, cuttings of indoor decorative plants 
such as Crotons, Pandanus, Dracenas, etc., 
rooted; in brief, this month marks the be- 
ginning of the garden year, and too much 
emphasis cannot be placed upon the advis- 
ability of an early start. 
MAKING THE SEEDBED RIGHT 
W HEN sowing seeds get the habit of doing 
it right; it is just as easy as the wrong 
way and will prevent needless losses by “damp- 
ing off.” Place some drainage in the bottom 
of the seed box or pan (say about I inch of 
broken crocks or cinders), place some moss 
over this to prevent the soil running through 
and clogging the openings, then place about 
I inch of rough soil on top and make firm, 
and never have a seed box loose and porous. 
Level off by sifting about jinch of soil on top 
and press gently with a seed tamp. Seed 
can now be sown and pressed into contact 
with the soil, and finally cover evenly by 
holding a sieve above the flat and sifting on 
some fine soil. Water with a fine rose or let 
water soak up from the bottom and label at 
once. Always label .every pan carefully 
with the name of the plant, date of sowing, 
and any other information that may be use- 
ful later on. 
SEED FOR THE FLOWER GARDRN 
N EARLY all the garden annuals can be 
sown the latter part of the month; but 
remember that the trouble with sowing seed 
early is that the little plants are usually grown 
too warm and get soft. Early sowing is ad- 
visable if you have a cool house to bring them 
along in, and you get a much stronger plant 
if it is grown along slowly. Another point 
is thin-sowing, and just as soon as the plant- 
lets are large enough to handle dibble them 
into boxes, or a frame; Ageratum, Amaran- 
thus, Salvia, Stock, Petunia, Verbena, Lobelia, 
Gaillardia, Carnations, Asters, etc., can all be 
sown now. 
Better make a resolution now that you will 
have some really good Sweet Peas this year, 
and try out the pot method: sow the seed in 
2-inch pots, one seed to a pot, and when large 
enough transplant into 4-inch pots, these 
young plants must be grown very cool, not 
.more than 45 degrees nights. A frame which 
has a heating coil just enough to keep the 
frost out makes an ideal place for Sweet Peas, 
they can then be carried along in such a 
place until it is safe to set them out. You 
may think this a lot of work, but you will soon 
be convinced if you try it once that it is well 
worth the effort. 
And among greenhouse plants. Cyclamen, 
Primula, single Chrysanthemum, Antirrhinum, 
tuberous Begonia, and Gloxinias need sowing 
this month. 
Water lilies for the pond are to be had if a 
start is made now. It is quite interesting 
work to raise these plants from seed, and is 
not out of the reach of anyone with the small- 
est greenhouse. Sow the seed the same as 
you would any other plant and immerse the 
pan so the water is flush with the soil, when 
t^>e young plants are large enough to handle, 
pot them up and keep them repotted as re- 
quired until they are in a 4-inch pot- from 
which they can be planted into tubs. Always 
keep the pots submerged, and when the seed- 
lings are planted in tubs use a good rich soil, 
about one-third leaf mold, and water fre- 
quently several times a day. 
