THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
April. 1917 
176 
Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of pre- 
liminary preparation of the ground 
two directions — first nortli to south, then 
east to west. Choose a still day and sow 
only when the ground is in fair gardening 
condition. After seeding, go over the soil 
both ways with a special disk-harrow or disk 
cultivator to get the seeds at Jeast \ inch into 
the soil. Hand rake to even up, roll again, 
and you should get the kind of a lawn that 
you can be proud of. 
UNDER DRAINAGE 
Draining the subsoil must not be over- 
looked. No matter how well the top soil 
is prepared nor how well the grass may flour- 
ish at the start, if the subsoil lacks drainage, 
moisture will stagnate beneath the turf. 
Now, stagnant moisture either eliminates air 
space or poisons the air at the roots. Either 
result is disastrous, since young grass of 
the better and most desirable lawn kinds 
does not thrive under such conditions. More- 
over, such soil condition encourages the 
growth of sorrel, an undesirable tenant in 
good lawns. 
One way to secure proper drainage is to 
remove all the top soil to a depth of 6 inches 
and construct a cinder bed, two inches deep, 
of ordinary coal ashes, or power house or loco- 
motive cinders. Or dig the soil to a depth of 
IO inches, and incorporate the cinders into 
the lower stratum, or work the cinders lightly 
into the subsoil, then scatter a 2-inch layer of 
half rotted stable manure over this and re- 
place the top soil. In extreme cases, tile 
may prove necessary. But since conditions 
differ so greatly, even on one and the same 
country estate, that phase of lawn construc- 
tion becomes the work of specialists in that 
field. 
WHEN YOUR GRASS LOOKS 
YELLOW AND SICK 
I he chances are there is 
just one thing wrong, viz: 
the soil is sour or getting 
so. Sour or acid soil is 
generally the result of 
either of two conditions: 
lack of drainage, or the 
top soil itself is such as 
to not admit sufficient 
air. 
In addition, there is 
the possibility of per- 
fectly good top soil, well 
drained, becoming full of 
acidity. Supposing you 
followed the advice of a 
specialist last fall and 
sowed Rye or Clovers. It was their mission to 
enrich their soil with nitrogen, while the green 
forage, turned under, would act as “green” 
manure. But if such herbage, turned under, 
is not given at least a month m which to de- 
compose, the resulting fermentation will al- 
most have the same effect on the top soil as 
lack of drainage — they will sour it and put 
it in decidedly unsanitary condition for any 
grasses, while sorrel, plantains, dandelions and 
other top rooted plants thrive. So, don’t 
let weeds deceive you as to the condition of 
your soil. 
The specific remedy for such cases is ground 
or shell lime which should be applied at the 
rate of 50 pounds to every 1000 square feet 
of lawn. An equal quantity of charcoal will 
likewise prove beneficial. 
KEEPING LAWNS WELL 
After a lawn or turf has been constructed on 
a proper foundation and is in flourishing con- 
dition, the price at which it may be main- 
tained is constant vigilance. Occasionally 
spots develop in the best of lawns. To 
remedy defects due to causes other than acid- 
ity is largely a matter of properly “feeding” 
the grass by fertilizing and aerating the soil 
underneath it. 
Prior to every fertilization, the sod should 
be opened up or perforated with either a per- 
forating roller (where large areas require 
treatment), or a hand sod perforator may 
suffice where home-lawns of ordinary dimen- 
sions need attention. I hese tools are de- 
signed to break up surface cohesion. This is 
the term used by experts to describe “hide- 
bound” lawns which are generally the result 
of too much rolling when the ground is wet. 
Lawn perforating encourages the grass roots 
Alter seeding give a thorough rolling and “cross raking” 
to spread and thicken the turf, besides 
aerating the soil. After spiking, humus, 
sheep manure or commercial fertilizer should 
be applied, to be followed by rolling 
with ordinary medium weight roller. Most 
standard “complete” lawn grass fertilizers 
contain 3! per cent, nitrogen, 6-IO per 
cent, phosphoric acid, 1 per cent.-2 per cent, 
potash. 
An application of a fertilizer containing 
these elements will prove particularly, effec- 
tive before the rainy season of either spring 
or fall, the latter part of March or early 
April being generally considered the best 
time. Bone Meal gives sufficient lime and 
staying plant food to make frequent applica- 
tions throughout the season highly beneficial. 
Humus will supply the vegetable matter or 
compost, so essential to lighten any soil and 
encourage healthy vegetation. Some “ pre- 
pared” humus has chemical fertilizer added. 
Sheep manure is a concentrated form of organic- 
matter suitable for liberal use. Add a “com- 
plete” fertilizer frequently, in small quanti- 
ties, and the lawns cannot help but look well- 
cared for, well-fed, healthy and buoyant 
with life. 
Occasionally spots develop that are be- 
yond redemption so far as treating the soil 
beneath them is concerned. The most effec- 
tive and economical remedy in such cases is 
to dig and remove the soil to a depth of 6 to 
8 inches. Then cover base of the excavation 
with two inches of cinders, mix soil, manure, 
and sand to fill two additional inches and 
fill balance of spot with a top dressing like 
that previously, described for new top soil. 
Roll lightly both ways, rake perfectly level, 
sow seeds and proceed as suggested pre- 
viously. 
Putting in a foundation of lime, loam etc., to support the fertile topsoil 
Commercially prepared humus as used by lawn building specialists, to improve the topsoil 
