180 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
April, 19 17 
Flowering shrubs planted on a division line and given room to grow hide fences and rails 
(Hybrid Lilacs used here) 
American Fringe Tree, (rear) and Weigela (front) grown as single specimens illustrate the 
way to get the real beauty of flowering shrubs 
apart, and will give a display unequalled during 
May and June, and after that are by no means 
unsightly. The white-flowering Common Lilac 
must not be planted with the other Common 
Lilac, for it grows twice as stout and twice as 
tall. The T ree Lilac could be made into a very 
stout hedge, but must be planted at least six 
or eight feet apart; this of course would only 
serve for ornament. The Persian Lilacs will 
require great width of room, not less than ten 
or twelve feet, for they hang over irj dense 
masses of bloom during May. One effective 
arrangement is to place rocks in front of the 
shrubs, among which ferns are planted. 
There is considerable of the windbreak about 
these large plants, and that is no trifling object, 
even in the suburbs of town. Behind them 
can be grown some plants which are semi- 
hardy, such as many of the Hybrid Rhododen- 
drons. 
The Weigelas make good hedges, but the 
wood is brittle, and after awhile the roots rot, 
and need renewal. But planted with Deutzia 
gracilis, or some other low creeping shrub in 
front* it is a useful shrub, and moreover it 
grows well in shade. The Hydrangeas have 
much to recommend them. The fairly new H. 
arborescens. Hills of Snow, that blossoms all 
summer, from the first of June, is better than 
the popular H. paniculata grandiflora. One 
more shrub of exceedingly good effect is the 
Althea or Rose of Sharon and here again the 
wood is brittle, and some sorts are not quite 
hardy, when young; they grow hardier as they 
grow older. If planting Altheas select those 
that have have about the same style of 
growth. 
For exquisite color in the winter, a line of 
Red-barked Dogwood beats everything. In 
the summer this plant is not at all pretty or 
attractive, although it has a delicate white 
flower; but at the time when the foliage drops 
from deciduous trees, this plant changes its 
green bark to a deep rich crimson -a habit 
shown by almost all trees and plants, but in 
this case very conspicuously so. It is delight- 
ful to look at all winter. Its only rival is a 
long line of Barberries. The birds rarely 
touch the Barberry, at least not until Spring, 
so we have the beauty of the scarlet fruit all 
winter. Here again, however, we have to 
remember that the wood is brittle. I should 
prefer to set my plants six feet apart, and let 
them lean over and tangle up with each 
other. 
I he Purple Beech is fine as a single specimen 
and also makes splendid hedges, and so will 
any Beech if eaten off by cattle, or trimmed by 
man, until stubbed. The ordinary Purple 
Beech is not quite hardy but Rivers’ (which 
is the best colored too) is frost proof. It is 
superb in leaf, equally beautiful in the autumn 
browning, and noble when it stands naked. 
In the Southern States I use Privet very 
freely, and am inclined to recommend the 
Amoor River sort for general planting in the 
North. It blossoms when quite small, and is 
pretty when grown as an individual plant. 
We can also grow the Japan Evonymus in 
Horida, and the Cape Jessamine. Our Roses 
also are very effective, but they do not surpass 
a close row of Camellia japomca; and if one is 
to use a trellis, it would be difficult to conceive 
anything finer than a screen of Cherokee Rose, 
with the Camellias fronting it. The rugosa 
Roses are very attractive for their luxuriant 
foliage as well as their flowers, but the free- 
flowering leas in the South are close rivals. 
1 he best shrub of all, for lawn, garden, or 
hedge, I think is the Tartarian Honeysuckle, 
a bush growing eight or ten feet high, and never 
better than when allowed to take nearly its own 
way of growth. It is gloriously covered with 
bloom in May, after which you may use the 
shears somewhat. It is grand for a windbreak as 
well as a hedge, and it will break a line of snow 
drift thoroughly. If it is broken at any point 
it will soon fill up the gap of its own accord. 
Indeed, a hedge of this sort may be left for 
years untouched; and then you may use your 
shears as freely as you like. 
There are few plants better fitted than the 
Japan Quince to make low growing hedges, 
and dividers between lawns. It forms an 
impenetrable hedge, is sufficiently thick and 
thorny, and it is gloriously beautiful in the 
flowering season. 
I do not recommend any special treatment 
for hedges, farther than to give them good 
garden soil, and thorough mulching when 
planted. Use very little barnyard manure, 
unless such as has been thoroughly composted 
with other material. 
A country home is beautiful very largely 
according to the taste displayed in planting. 
You can spoil as easily as you can ornament. 
It is important to know whether a screen is 
wanted, or a low growing flower-giving divi- 
sion line. I have even seen the trifoliate 
Orange planted for a lawn hedge close by 
houses. It is a terrible plant, fit only to turn 
range cattle. To get rid of such a hedge after 
it has taken possession of the ground is a task 
few like to tackle. 
The Art of Planting Trees and 
Shrubs 
T 1 IS a critical time (as far as the welfare 
of the plants is concerned) when they 
reach the planter. With the roots wrapped 
and the tops all bundled up, dormant stock 
will endure a great deal of knocking around 
before it is unpacked; but as soon as the wrap- 
pings are taken off, conditions are changed. 
The unwrapping should be done in a sheltered, 
shady place for even gentle winds and sun- 
shine can accomplish wonders in taking mois- 
ture from the roots. If the unpacking must 
be done in the open, dig a trench in the ground 
into which the roots can be laid so that a 
shovelful of soil can be thrown over them at 
once. This is “heeling-in.” It may be well 
also to water them if they are to be left thus 
for any considerable time. Even when heeled 
in use burlap wrappings or other covers to 
protect the tops of the plants from exposure 
until planted. 
When planting, be sure that the hole is 
sufficiently large. The effects of too small a 
hole will be marked in stunted growth, per- 
haps for years to come. Never put fresh 
manure in the ground; when planting use well 
rotted manure and do not let that come in 
actual contact with the roots. Before plant- 
ing cut off, with a clean cut, any broken roots. 
It will be well also to reduce the top in some 
degree. Usually about one-third of the growth 
should be taken out or cut back. Remember 
the roots have suffered a shock in trans- 
planting, so do not overtax their strength. 
Make the soil around newly set plants really 
firm, using a maul or tamper for large plants 
and tramping very firmly about smaller ones. 
Give a thorough watering — this helps to settle 
the soil and fill up any spaces. Finally mulch. 
This is really important. A mulch may con- 
sist of constantly stirred soil; but something 
should be done to conserve moisture, and the 
mulch should be retained in condition through- 
out the first year after planting. Newly 
planted evergreens should be protected from 
winds. 
