274 
T HE GARDEN M A GAZINE 
June, 1917 
have not already done so, to carry on your 
war, which is sure to come, with the former. 
If you are a newcomer and cannot look up 
back numbers of The Garden Magazine 
which give information in detail about the 
various garden pests write to the Readers’ 
Service Department for help. Briefly, the 
“strategy” of garden warfare is as follows: 
There is one corps of garden pests such as 
potato bugs, cabbage worms and others of 
similar nature which live by actually biting off, 
chewing and swallowing parts of the foliage or 
stems or fruits. You campaign against these 
with an internal poison which may be sprayed 
on the plants in either wet or dry form; the 
approved ammunition is arsenate of lead. 
Another army of the enemy includes the vari- 
ous plant lice or aphids such as infest Roses, 
pea vines, melons, etc., also scales of different 
types, which are not affected by internal 
poisons because they live by sucking the juices 
from the inner tissues of the plant. Attack 
these with sprays which kill by contact — of 
which nicotine extract or oily emulsions are 
the best. The stronger the solution, the more 
convenient to handle and the more economical 
to use. 
Various vegetables, and some flowers may 
be assailed by “blight” and “rust” — or 
anthracnose. Intrench yourself against these 
by preventive fortifications of bordeaux mix- 
ture, which can be bought in stock form 
and used after dilution with water, according 
to directions; dry powder for dusting on is 
very convenient for small gardens. 
It is quite practical to use a combination 
spray, containing all three of these ingredients, 
which will be effective at one operation against 
chewing insects, against sucking insects, and 
as a preventive against blight, rust, etc. 
If you have a compressed air sprayer and 
are using wet sprays, use the combination of 
arsenate of lead and bordeaux spray (see 
page 278) and add to it before using, nicotine 
sulphate. If you are using a “dry” duster, 
vou can get the combined arsenate of lead and 
bordeaux in powder form. A small hand 
sprayer, in which tobacco or oil preparations 
can be applied on the first appearance of any 
plant lice or any sucking insects is most useful. 
The great secret in being successful with your 
spraying, is to have your materials on hand, 
and to be able to “shoot” immediately upon 
the first appearance of the enemy. 
GARDEN PRODUCE MUST NOT BE WASTED! 
T HIS year, of all years, must be a canning 
year! Take this hint and act on it 
promptly. Buy your cans, or glass jars, if 
you have not already done so, at once. I here 
will be an unprecedented shortage of these 
things before the season is over. Also save 
any wide mouthed bottles, pickle jars and so 
forth. Many gardeners fail to do what 
should be done, and that is, throughout the 
season to use up all available vegetables as 
soon as they are ready, and before they are 
old and tough. What isn’t eaten must be 
canned. Beans often mature much faster 
than they can be used upon the table. Here- 
tofore the majority of gardeners did nothing 
with the extra part of the crop— it was al- 
lowed to spoil on the vines. 1 lus year the 
tactics must be changed. Pick all pods as 
soon as they are large enough to be used. 
Eat or give away what you can at the time, 
and then can the rest. If any of them get 
too old, pick the pods as soon as they begin 
to dry up, instead of leaving them to spoil on 
the vines; they can be shelled out and used as 
dried beans for winter. Next month’s Gar- 
den Magazine will have more to say about 
canning and drying. 
IMPORTANCE OF WATER 
■^[O ONE thing which you can do will go 
^ so far toward insuring the success of 
your garden and the production of a big 
yield as the installation of a modern irrigating 
system — no matter how small or how large 
your garden may be. The expense is little. 
With this year’s prices for vegetables it will 
probably pay for itself two or three times over 
before freezing weather. Elsewhere, in this 
number of the Garden Magazine (and in 
next month’s), you will find particulars of the 
various systems. Study your own problem 
DO THIS MONTH 
1 Finish setting out tender plants. 
* Spray for insects and diseases. 
IT Be prepared for saving all surplus garden produce. 
IT But in a modern irrigation system. 
If Attend to succession plantings in time. 
IT Plant for an ample supply of winter vegetables. 
IT Keep on planning as well as planting your garden. 
H Do all the mulching you can to conserve moisture. 
IT Keep flowers cut daily. 
IT Keep the lawn rolled, and don’t cut it too short. 
U Prepare to grow your own potted strawberry 
plants. 
If Try some of the newer salads. 
PLANT THIS MONTH 
Vegetables; from seed: bush and pole beans, 
lima beans, corn, cucumbers, melons, martynia, 
okra, pumpkin, squash, cos lettuce, French endive, 
Chinese cabbage. 
Plants: in northern sections, from frames; Lima 
beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, melons, peppers, 
squash, tomatoes. Toward end of month, from 
seed bed: Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, 
celery, kale, leek, late tomatoes. 
Succession crops; beans, beets, carrots, corn, 
cucumbers, kohlrabi, lettuce, peas, radish, turnips. 
Flowers; from seed: tender annuals, such as 
Balsam, Begonias, Castor Bean, Dolichos, Im- 
patiens, Portulaca, Salvia, etc. 
From pots: tender bedding plants, such as 
Begonia. Heliotrope, Musa, Salvia, etc. For 
late gardens: Roses, hardy perennials, etc. (from 
pots). 
For Fall and Winter Use; in seed border, to 
transplant later to pots: Antirrhinum, Begonia, 
Carnations (“pinks"). Geranium, Heliotrope, 
Lobelia, Mimosa, Petunia, Stocks, “Silk Oak,” 
Verbena. 
Bulbs and Tubers; Callas, Caladiums, Gladiolus 
(succession plantings); Cannas, Dahlias, etc., 
where not already planted. 
carefully, and make your selection accordingly, 
but — put in irrigation. If you are at all handy 
with tools, you can do the work yourself— as 
there is nothing to it, but the joining together 
of pipes valves, etc., which can be bought 
ready fitted if you give the proper dimensions 
when ordering. 
ATTEND TO SUCCESSION PLANTING 
O NE of the greatest faults of the average 
home garden is the gaps between the 
crops. After the spring planting is done, 
one is likely to think that that part of the 
work can be forgotten until it is time to put 
in the fall things. Don’t make this mistake. 
Keep up succession plantings especially of 
beans, sweet corn, lettuce, radish and other 
things which go by quickly after they reach 
maturity. Small plantings made often is 
the proper method of procedure. 
KEEP PLANNING AS WELL AS PLANTING 
U NLESS you have made out a garden 
plan which shows everything to be 
planted throughout the season, give some 
thought now as to the best things to follow 
the crops which will be out of the way during 
the next few weeks. (See p. 275). Do not 
wait until the ground is clear before deciding. 
Next make the most of small area by inter- 
planting — two or three weeks can usually be 
gained by planting the new crop between the 
rows of the old, or between the plants that have 
not yet been harvested. The beginner at 
gardening will find one of the efficiency charts, 
on which the vegetables are represented by 
strips of card-board, corresponding to the 
length of time the particular vegetable takes 
to mature, a very real convenience for plan- 
ning successions throughout the season so as 
to get the maximum yield from the piece of 
ground he may have available. 
don’t be a butterfly! 
YOU know the old fable of the butterfly 
and the ant, and of how the latter pro- 
vided her winter requirements in advance. 
The trouble with the butterfly was not that 
she was lazy, but that she lacked foresight. 
Plan now for your winter supply of vegetables. 
If there is not sufficient room for a good supply 
of root crops, such as beets, carrots and turnips 
and so forth, get a little extra ground some- 
where for these things. From the present 
outlook they will be about worth their weight 
in gold next winter. 
MOISTURE BY MULCHING 
yOUR crops of gooseberries, currants and 
strawberries will depend to a very large 
extent upon the amount of moisture you can 
keep in the soil about their roots. Use all 
your grass clippings and other mulching ma- 
terials that may be available for this purpose. 
Grass clippings in the strawberry bed make 
an ideal mulch. They are clean, are short 
enough to pack down tightly about the plants 
and are not likely to blow around. One 
watering through a mulch of this kind will do 
as much good as three applied in the ordinary 
way. 
KEEP ALL FLOWERS CUT 
S WEET peas, and all other flowers par- 
ticularly the annuals, will stop blooming 
much sooner if the old flowers remain on the 
plants and “go to seed.” Keep the flowers 
cut daily. If you have not time to cut them 
yourself, let someone have them for the trouble 
of cutting them. 
RAISING STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
T O GET the biggest and the finest straw- 
berries, not only should the vines be 
grown in the “hill” system, but if you want 
one hundred per cent, next June from berry 
plants set out in July or August, you should 
have potted plants. Select a few of the best 
plants in your bed now and mark them with 
small stakes. As soon as the new runners 
have formed, get 3 or 3! inch pots and fill 
them with regular potting soil if that is avail- 
able. If not, the soil where the ordinary 
strawberry plants are growing will do if it 
is not lumpy. Sink each pot up to the rim 
and hold in place over it with a small stone 
or a clothes pin, one runner, so that the first 
plant formed will root down into the pot. 
Snip off the continuation of the runner beyond 
this first plant. As soon as the little plant is 
well established in the pot it can be severed 
from the parent plant, and allowed to remain 
and develop in the pot until wanted to make 
the new bed. In this way, you will get 
plants that are well established — not one in a 
hundred of which need be lost when you make 
your new bed, even if it is mid-summer. 
Select runners from the best plants. 
