June, 1917 
T HE GARDEN M AGAZINE 
279 
T HE patriotic thing now is for each 
garden owner or worker to do his 
utmost to increase food production this 
summer by planting as many vegetables 
as can be cared for properly. Remember it is 
better to cultivate a small plot properly than 
to work across a large area badly. Any surplus 
of crops that are perishable may be saved by 
putting up in tins or glass, or by drying. 
Do not waste anything. Plgnt the staple 
crops, such as com, black eye peas, butter 
beans, navy beans and late potatoes this 
month. One can continue the planting of 
corn, snap beans, and beets until September. 
It is too late now to plant English garden peas 
as they are cold weather plants, but begin 
again the end of August. Canning asparagus 
and English peas and beets and some of the 
fruits can be done now. Get recipe from the 
Agricultural Department, Washington, D. C. 
Farmers’ Bulletin 359 by J. F. Breazeale 
has been well tested and for many years used 
by the Girls’ Canning Clubs. Get also the 
Government recipe for drying vegetables and 
fruits as there is a shortage of glass jars and 
tins and so much food can be conserved by 
drying. Even though there might be only 
enough for one jar it should be immediately 
canned to prevent waste. 
Plant in the open ground during June: 
mid-season tomatoes, egg plant and peppers; 
also a little curly endive, which last can be 
blanched by tying the leaves together with a 
soft string, as all kinds of lettuce bolt to 
seed in hot weather. Witloof chicory can be 
sowed in a row and thinned out later and when 
big plants they should be dug up and put in a 
trench and treated as one does celery to blanch 
for winter; first cutting off the tops to two 
inches from the crown. 
Force all “leaf crops” with a bi-weekly 
application of nitrate of soda, all cabbage 
in particular. Sow in coldframe Brussels 
sprouts, cauliflower, winter cabbage, and late 
tomatoes. Plant the late potatoes. Green 
Mountain and Peach Blow are proved good 
varieties. Sweet potatoes can be planted the 
end of May or first of June. 
Keep up a constant cultivation in the 
garden, stirring the soil to conserve moisture 
and keep down the weeds. The orchard and 
vineyard should be sprayed with bordeaux- 
arsenate of lead up to July 1st, except of course 
on trees that bear in June, i. e., early apples, 
peaches, and apricots. Thin out superfluous 
fruit so that those that are left will be finer 
specimens. As soon as the grapes turn pink, 
the small uneven bunches could be gathered 
and used for jelly making and this thinning 
out will also be an advantage to the remaining 
bunches. The ends of the grape vines should 
be cut out to let in air and sunlight. The best 
bunches could be bagged to prevent loss by 
wasps and to make a more even bunch. 
Keep a vigilant eye on all vegetables and 
fruit this month for there are so many diseases 
and insects to combat. Bordeaux mixture is 
used for blight and fungous diseases; and that. 
with arsenate of lead added at the rate of 
1L2 lbs. to 50 gallons of bordeaux, will 
destroy codling moth, curculio, currant 
worm, cabbage and potato worms, etc. 
Slug shot sprinkled on plants in the early 
morning when they are covered with dew will 
eradicate the worm and the leaves should be 
thoroughly covered with liquid poison — 
arsenate of lead is best. 
Early corn is subject to smut and corn 
worms. Spray it at silking time with a dry 
spray, 20 per cent, arsenate of lead and 30 
per cent, flour of sulphur blown right into the 
tip end of the ear. 
The latter part of the month, put out celery- 
plants four inches apart, in a trench, two feet 
deep, with six inches of manure in bottom and 
four inches of good sod on top. 
Early blooming shrubs should be trimmed 
now, such are Forsythia, Spiraeas, and Lilacs. 
Sow Aster seed now with a few peppers and 
when transplanted into the open ground plant 
them together. The aster beetle prefers the 
pepper plant and thus the Asters will be saved, 
and planted this late they will bloom in Sep- 
tember. Trim off the weak shoots of the 
Dahlias and keep the sod well worked about 
them. A good potato fertilizer is the best for 
Dahlias, but one too rich in nitrogen will make 
the plants go to leaf. The lateral branches 
of Chrysanthemums should be cut oft' and an 
occasional watering with manure water is 
beneficial. I he black aphis to which they are 
subject can be eradicated bv a heavy stream 
of water from the hose. 
Virginia. J. M. Patterson. 
Planting on the Coast 
HPHE efficient gardener who is planning 
for a succession of vegetable crops 
every month of the year must now 
sow seeds of carrot, cauliflower, popcorn, 
peas, and radishes. 
The standard carrot is Danvers Half Long. 
However, an unusually attractive little carrot 
is the Early French. This is almost round 
and resembles the French Breakfast radish in 
form. It grows to be about two inches in 
diameter and is at its best just before reaching 
the two-inch size. If you have a hotbed, sow 
a few seeds of the Snowball cauliflower. 
These seeds are expensive and it is much better 
when working for a succession of crops to sow 
only a small part of the packet at one sowing. 
Those of us who hitherto have bought pop- 
corn from the street vender rather than make 
it in our own homes will do well this year to 
grow some of the popcorn in the garden. I he 
White Rice is an unusually good variety and 
may be planted now. Treat it exactly like 
sweet corn. 
Big Boston is the standard lettuce. But in 
the southern part of the state the Los Angeles 
variety is much grown. It is the favorite on 
the Los Angeles market and is very good in- 
deed for home use. In the northern part of 
the state, especially around San Francisco, 
the California Cream Butter variety is rapidly 
gaining in popularity. It is very prolific and 
unusually crisp. 
Keep yourself busy at odd times scratching 
around the different garden crops, and drawing 
a little soil around the base of the different 
plants to protect them during the hot days. 
Pole beans and peas that were planted early 
will now need supports. If poles are at hand 
they should be set up now. A very good way 
to provide a support, however, and one that is 
entirely satisfactory, is to set stakes or posts 
at either end of the row and stretch a strip of 
poultry wire between them. 
If you have not planted for a succession of 
vegetables but have a space in which some 
may be sown for fall use, make your choice 
from the following: Kentucky Wonder or 
Old Homestead pole beans; extra Early Re- 
fugee bush beans; Improved Egyptian beets; 
Early Green or White Spine cucumbers; 
Long-leaved Dandelion; Rich Green Curled 
endive; Kohlrabi; Rockyford muskmelon; 
Rich Netted Cantelope or Burrell’s musk- 
melon; Peerless or Ice Cream watermelon; 
Spinach; Okra; Parsley; Mammoth pumpkin; 
Hubbard squash; Yellow Crook-neck summer 
squash; and Purple Top White Globe turnip. 
Plants of cabbage, eggplants, and sweet 
potatoes may be purchased from the market 
gardens or from the grocery stores and should 
be set out this month unless the supply has 
already been secured. Sweet potatoes do not 
thrive well on heavy soil and should not be at- 
tempted unless very sandy loam is available. 
GREENHOUSE TASKS THAT NEED ATTENTION 
If you are growing Chrysanthemums in the 
greenhouse for developing unusually large 
blossoms for cutting they should be examined 
now to see if they are ready for repotting. 
It is impossible to give a date when they 
should be transferred. The way to determine 
when they are ready is to examine the roots. 
Turn the pot upside down and jar it enough 
to loosen the ball of earth around the roots. 
Carefully lift off the pot and if the roots have 
formed a network around the inside of the pot 
the plants are ready for repotting. 
Chrysanthemums require a large 
amount of water but must have the pots 
well drained so that the soil does not be- 
come soggy. After they have been re- 
potted, put them close together on a bench that 
has been covered with cinders or ashes in a 
shady place in the greenhouse, or better still, 
in a sheltered spot out-of-doors. If the largest 
blooms are to be had, keep the side shoots 
pinched back and allow one main flower stalk 
to develop to its best. 
At this time of year the air is usually rather 
dry and the greenhouse will need water applied 
to the walks and under the benches. Open 
the ventilators early every morning and cldse 
them early in the evening. Ferns and all 
ornamental leaved plants not in bloom should 
be sprinkled lightly with tepid water. Plants 
that are beginning to show buds should receive 
weak manure water or a light top dressing 
once every two weeks. 
If you desire a succession of Calceolaria 
blossoms, a few of the seeds should be sown 
in shallow pots or pans during June. After 
the seeds have been sown on a mellow soil 
cover them by sprinkling silver sand over 
them. They should be kept in a cool frame 
facing the north and the sun should not be 
allowed to strike them until they are well under 
way. I hey require a light sprinkling twice a 
day, morning and evening. 
For winter decorations, nothing is quite so 
well liked as Coleus. If a good supply is wanted, 
make cuttings now and start in small pots. 
***/« the articles devoted to particular localities 
and special subjects the reader will often find 
directions that are of general application — e. g. 
hints on canning , spraying, feeding, etc. There- 
fore it will be well to look-through every line of 
the Patriotic Garden Department because repe- 
tition has been avoided to save space. 
