June, 1917 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
281 
vegetables, is a disadvantage. All the 
sprinkler systems, applying the water over 
a series of circular areas, distribute the 
water in extra heavy doses where the “cir- 
cles” overlap; but this is not serious if one 
takes the trouble to irrigate when there is a 
little wind blowing, as can usually be done. 
More serious, in most cases, is the fact that 
the water is not evenly distributed over the 
whole of the circular area covered by each 
sprinkler. In many cases a large percentage 
of the water falls in a comparatively narrow 
ring; therefore, if you plan to use a sprinkler 
system, be sure to select sprinklers that have 
as even a throw as can be got. The nozzle 
line system is not quite so automatic in its 
operation, but all the attention needed is to 
turn the line occasionally by means of the 
handle at the end of the line, so that the water 
will fall in a different place; five or six shifts, 
turning the line a few degrees at a time, are 
required to water all the ground covered, from 
one side to the other. It is possible to get an 
automatic turning device which will keep the 
line turning, but this of course is an additional 
expense. The nozzles are more likely to 
clog up than are the sprinklers, and though 
they are easily freed of ordinary obstructions, 
it is necessary to keep a little closer watch of 
them. One important advantage the nozzle 
line systems have is, that where the pipes 
run the same way as the rows of vegetables, 
as they usually do, a few rows at a time can be 
i wet down as wanted, or given an extra amount 
of water; this is very convenient in weeding, 
thinning, transplanting, and sowing succes- 
sion crops. 
The details of the equipment for the two 
systems — nozzle-line, and sprinkler, are in 
general, as follows. 
THE NOZZLE LINE 
For the nozzle line system there should be a 
line of pipe (the hose will do) out to the gar- 
den, i inch, or even ^ in. will answer for a 
moderate sized garden. A riser, extending up 
3 to 6 feet, is placed at the point where the ir- 
rigation line is to start, and on top of this a 
| valve and an elbow. Next comes a special 
fitting known as a “turning union.” This 
is so constructed that it allows the pipe 
to be revolved, by means of a short handle 
placed in it for the purpose, without leaking 
at the joint. It also contains a strainer. 
A cap on the end of the handle permits flush- 
ing out this union without taking it apart. 
At intervals of three to four feet along the 
i line, small nozzles are screwed into the pipe, 
in a perfectly straight line. For a small 
outfit, you can buy the pipe, with the nozzles 
already inserted; for a larger installation, 
there is a special drilling machine, with lever 
attachment, which makes it possible to get 
the holes in a perfectly straight line. These 
nozzles throw the water to a distance of twenty 
to twenty-five feet, so that each line is capable 
of covering a strip of ground forty to fifty feet 
wide. The line of pipe has supports, every 
fifteen to twenty feet, in the form of wood or 
iron pipe posts. Rollers to fit either kind of 
post are supplied, but are not really neces- 
sary for runs of pipe under 200 feet or so. 
THE SPRINKLER TYPE 
For the sprinkler system, all the piping is 
put underground, except the uprights or risers, 
which support the sprinklers. These are 
Note these rows of peas, both sown the same day; that 
on the right was given shelter by a “protector” or “forcer” 
and is ahead of the other 
placed at intervals of 30 to 50 feet along the 
lines, according to water pressure and capacity. 
A valve at the beginning of each line controls 
all the sprinklers on that line; or one can have 
a valve for each sprinkler. In either case, this 
system is more expensive to install than the 
nozzle line type. The water is applied 
more rapidly, and therefore larger pipes are 
necessary to carry it. For lawns, shrubbery, 
etc., the sprinkler is often placed in an iron 
box or cup, set flush with the ground, where 
it is out of sight, and out of the way when not 
in use, so that the lawn mower, roller, etc., 
may pass over it without injury. 
While the above outlines in a general way 
the construction of these two types of irriga- 
tion systems, to inform yourself more fully 
about the details of construction and equip- 
ment, and get data on which you can readily 
figure out what your own outfit will need to 
include, consult the catalogues of the several 
companies now making irrigation equipment. 
I have taken pains in the paragraphs above to 
tell you some of the things these interesting 
catalogues don’t tell, but there is a lot more 
that I haven’t had room for that you will find 
well worth your trouble in reading, and that 
will help you in making an intelligent selec- 
tion. 
USING WATER EFFICIENTLY 
And now a few words as to using whatever 
system you may install. First of all, remem- 
ber that your irrigation system is not a play- 
thing, and even though you may like “to see 
it running,” always keep in mind that it is 
better to give an occasional thorough soaking, 
than frequent light sprinklings. Usually a 
half inch to an inch of water should be given 
in dry weather. You can gauge the amount 
by the “time table” given with whatever 
system you use — so many hours, at such and 
such a pressure of water = | inch, etc. The 
“pressure ” of city supply can be obtained from 
the proper authorities; in a self-contained plant 
it must be figured according to circumstances. 
Usually it is best to water rather late in 
the afternoon. To water in the bright sun- 
shine wastes water, as much of it is lost bv 
evaporation before it has time to sink down 
to the plant roots. 
After watering, just as soon as the surface 
of the soil becomes dry enough to work, go 
over it with a wheel-hoe and reestablish the 
dust mulch, to aerate the soil, and save all 
you can of the water just applied for the use 
of the plants. After a light rain, which has 
not soaked down far, but has spoiled the dust 
mulch it often pays to finish the job with a 
watering somewhat lighter than usual, before 
working the soil to reestablish the mulch again. 
A light watering is also often a great help 
just before weeding or thinning, to moisten and 
loosen up the hard dry soil. 
In conclusion, bear in mind that water 
will be one of the very few things that won’t 
be costing you “war-prices” this summer, and 
that every gallon of water you can add to your 
garden in dry weather will be worth so much 
in actual dollars and cents to you in the in- 
creased weight of vegetables it is sure to make. 
It will not only save worry and crops, but will 
make your fertilizer go about twice as far 
as it would otherwise. You can’t go wrong on 
taking this step to make your garden sure 
and safe so far as dry weather, its greatest 
enemy, is concerned. Have a little rain- 
plant of your own this summer! 
Typical installation sprinkler type which distributes water in circles from focal centres. 
A minimum of permanent pipe is above ground 
Typifying the overhead nozzle line system in which the distributing pi ires are above 
ground, and can be turned their whole length in desired diections 
