Transplanting Vegetables to Economize on Space 
H. W. DOYLE, 
IT OFTEN IMPROVES THE PLANT, TOO— THE RIGHT POOLS TO USE AND HOW TO GO TO WORK 
W E GARDENERS, if we are to get 
the most outof our gardens, must do 
considerable transplanting and in- 
deed many plants are greatly bene- 
fited by the practice. I omatoes, cabbages 
and celery are notable examples. The roots, 
being broken, have a tendency to branch, 
and thus a more ramified feeding system is 
acquired. Another advantage is that each 
individual plant is given more space in which 
to develop. Plants are often transplanted 
two, three or even more times in order to 
further increase their root systems; the more 
often they are transplanted the better they 
seem to stand the operation. Not only does 
it make stocky and sturdy plants, but it often 
hastens fruiting, and it has been known to 
have been the means of avoiding certain dis- 
eases. 1 he first essential in successful trans- 
planting is to have strong, sturdy plants; the 
second a favorable environment in which to 
set them. 
YOUNG PLANTS FROM HOTBEDS 
Plants started on small areas, in hotbeds, 
greenhouses, or protected outdoor beds, are 
more easily cared for, especially when they are 
of a delicate nature or during a time when 
weather conditions are unfavorable. The 
space where they are to be planted may not 
be available, either because occupied by an- 
other crop or because of the earliness of the 
season. Hence the value of concentrated 
culture and the necessity of transplanting. 
Where plants are transplanted two or more 
times before setting in the field, the operation 
is known as “pricking out.” This is begun 
by most growers soon after about three true 
leaves have formed — say at three weeks of 
age. It should not be delayed long enough 
to allow the plants to become at all spindly. 
They are pricked out from one and one-half 
to six inches apart — three inches is probably 
the most common distance employed. Weak 
plants are discarded. 
— Coldframes, spent hotbeds, and sometimes 
sheltered and specially prepared outside beds 
are used to set them in. Often they are 
pricked into flats and sometimes separately 
in paper pots or other receptacles which are 
Use a transplanting trowel or a dibber thrust alongside the 
plant to firm the earth about the roots 
placed in hotbeds or coldframes. If set in 
flats a one-inch layer of well-rotted manure in 
the bottom will help in removing the plants 
with a large bunch of dirt about the roots. 
Rich soil and careful attention to watering, 
ventilation and weather conditions are neces- 
sary to success. 
USING OUTSIDE BEDS 
Outside beds should be located in well- 
drained places, convenient to water. They 
may be about three feet wide and of any de- 
sired length. It is well for them to stand an 
inch or two above the general level of the sur- 
rounding ground. The soil should be care- 
fully prepared and of practically the same 
constituency as that used in the hotbed or 
greenhouse. Of course, with outside beds, the 
grower runsagreater riskof inclement weather. 
1 he plants are hard to protect in case of low 
temperature or hard driving and cold rains. 
Lath screens are valuable adjuncts to out- 
side beds. They are so made as to give par- 
tial shade, by the laths being spaced as far 
apart as they are wide. I hus no part of the 
bed is shaded all the time. While the plants 
are newly set the screens may be left on during 
the entire day. As the plants grow older 
they may be taken off for short intervals, 
gradually increasing the time, until finally, 
to harden the plants against the sun, they 
should be dispensed with altogether 
TOOLS THAT HELP 
Various devices are used in pricking out. 
Some people use small dibbles, making holes 
and setting in the same manner as in the open. 
Others use transplanting boards, having f 
inch holes through them in check rows, as far 
apart as it is intended to set the plants. A 
special dibble is made to fit these holes. The 
board is held firmly in place over a flat and 
the dibble run through each hole into the soil. 
The board is then removed, leaving holes at 
regular intervals, which, being uniform, econ- 
omize in space and make the transplanting 
easier. Holding a bunch of plants in one 
hand, with the other hand drop a plant in 
each hole, beginning at one side and leaning 
the plants away from the holes yet to be filled. 
When each hole is filled the plants may be 
firmed in with the fingers. 
Another contrivance for making holes is 
known as a “spotting board.” Wooden pegs 
or pins about three inches in length and 
Y inch in diameter at the base, tapering to a 
point, are fastened and project from one side 
of a board, the distance apart the plants are 
to be set. A “spotting board” should have 
narrow projections from the side at each end, 
carrying single pegs. These single pegs are 
placed in the end holes of the last row made and 
serve to guide the “spotting board” to the 
proper distance between the first row of pegs 
and the last row of holes. The board is 
pressed firmly down, pushing the pegs into 
the soil, and carefully removed. One can 
stand on the board while dropping and firming 
the plants in one set of holes and be at the 
same time forming another set. 
WHERE THE WEATHER’S RIGHT 
Humid regions and weather conditions are 
favorable to transplanting in the open. A 
fine time to set plants is just before a rain, es- 
pecially if cloudy weather follows. I he most 
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unfavorable weather conditions are bright 
sun combined with cold wind, cold storms 
of drizzling rain, or frosty nights. Still 
warm air is desirable— whether the day is 
sunny or not is of less importance. During 
drouthy weather the transplanting may be 
done in late afternoon or evening in order 
that the plants may have the night in which 
to recuperate. 
The soil is a very important factor in suc- 
cessful transplanting. It must be in such a 
condition of perfect tilth that fine particles 
may be firmly compacted about the tiny root- 
lets of the plants. Therefore, good judgment 
must be exercised in plowing. Thorough 
harrowing, rolling and dragging must be given, 
until the soil is in a fine mellow condition. 
Newly turned land, being more moist, enables 
the plants to more quickly secure a foothold. 
Moist, not wet, soil is to be desired. It 
should not be so saturated with water as to 
be soggy and muddy. 
Ease of cultivation and successful manage- 
ment require straight rows and uniform dis- 
Transplanting develops a good root system. Seed sown 
same day; plant on right was not transplanted. The 
difference is plain 
tances between rows. A marker is, there- 
fore, a very useful implement. The one 
generally used consists of a long handle and 
a cross piece at one end, in which are fastened 
the teeth that do the marking. It is very 
simple, and may be easily made by anyone 
who can handle a hammer and a saw. In 
using a marker, stretch a line at one side 
of the area to be planted, and with a side 
tooth of the marker barely touching it, walk 
backward, marking the rows. 
There is a certain time when plants are in 
the best condition for setting in the garden, 
which does not extend beyond a few days. 
It is hardly possible to describe this condition, 
other than to say it is when they are as large 
as they can be without crowding and are in a 
state to best stand the shock of removal. 
Experience teaches one to judge this time. 
They can sometimes be held back by exposure, 
scant watering or clipping the leaves. 
Cooler plants, like cabbage, can stand lower 
temperatures, and are preferably planted in 
cooler weather, and generally several weeks 
earlier than such warm plants as tomatoes 
and eggplants. However, different varieties 
of either the cool or warm kinds are naturally 
