June, 1917 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
283 
adapted, or may be 
hardened by proper 
methods, to greater 
resistance of either 
cold or heat. 
Transplanting be- 
gins days and weeks 
before the plants are 
moved. I refer to the 
care and treatment 
before the operation. 
Those that are ex- 
pected to resist cold 
should be hardened 
to cold by frequent 
and ever increased 
ventilation, until 
they have acquired 
sufficient powers of 
resistance to permit 
their removal to the 
open without check. 
Plants that are ex- 
pected toresistdrouth 
must be hardened to 
drouth by withhold- 
ing water. Some 
plants are made short 
and thick-set by shearing the tops while small. 
A few hours before transplanting the beds 
should receive a thorough wetting. The plant 
cells will then absorb a large supply of water 
and food, which will help them withstand the 
shock of removal. The wetting also assists in 
retaining soil particles about the roots. 
Plants obtain moisture and food materials 
from the soil through tiny rootlets and root 
hairs. These are very fragile and delicate 
structures. In transplanting, no more mois- 
ture or food can be taken into the plant until 
it has become reestablished in its new position, 
and new root hairs have formed. Those 
plants having larger root systems and greater 
powers to make roots do not suffer so much as 
the weaker ones. The danger of severe check, 
and often death, can be readily seen. If a 
plant has not become reestablished within 
forty-eight hours it will seldom be of much 
value, as the shock has been too severe. 
Plants roughly grasped in bunches and 
rudely pulled have to fight against great odds 
when set in the open. The tiny feeding roots 
and root hairs are torn from the plant and re- 
main in the soil, while the stems are bruised 
or broken. It pays to spend more time to 
“lift” the plants carefully, retaining as much 
soil about the roots as possible. It is well to 
run a flat shovel far enough underneath the 
plants as not to injure the roots, and then lift 
the section — plants, soil and all — from the bed. 
I hey may then be carefully separated with a 
minimum of injury. One can hardly be too 
careful about retaining these rootlets and hair 
roots. Failure is very likely to result from hur- 
ried or careless work at this stage of the game. 
Where plants have been transplanted into 
flats it is quite easy to remove them with 
little disturbance and with a liberal quantity 
of soil about the roots. Cut through the soil 
and manure so as to divide it into little blodcs 
each containing a plant. Place the flat on its 
side and jar it on the ground, or tap it on the 
bottom, and it will be easy to remove the 
cubes of dirt. 
HANDLING THE YOUNG PLANTS 
1 here are various methods of treating 
plants after removal from the beds and before 
setting in the garden. Sometimes, when they 
are quite large, it is customary to remove 
about one-third of the foliage to prevent too 
much evaporation after setting. When the 
weather is quite dry it is the custom of many 
to “puddle” the roots. This is done by dig- 
ging a small, saucer-shaped hole in the ground, 
pouring it full of water, and with a hoe mixing 
a batter to the consistency of thick cream. 
The plants are taken in small bunches, the 
roots spread out and dipped in the batter. 
They should be planted at once. Another 
plan is to thoroughly sprinkle or wet the en- 
tire plant, roots and top. 
W hile plants are out of the ground the direct 
rays of the sun should not be allowed to shine 
on them any more than can be helped. It is 
also well to protect them from drying winds. 
They may be transported from the beds to 
the garden in broad, flat pans, covered with a 
newspaper. 
As a rule plants should be set a trifle deeper 
than they stood in the seed bed. If they are 
a little large for transplanting, leggy or 
A tomato plant all ready to set out. This is in ideal con- 
dition and will “ never know it was moved ” 
spindly tffiey may be 
set proportionately 
deeper. Never set so 
deep as to cover the 
crown or heart. The 
soil must be tightly 
pressed about the 
roots. When a plant 
is set it should be firm 
enough in the ground 
to prevent its being 
pulled up by grasping 
the leaves. Take 
hold by a leaf and pull 
steadily — if the plant 
is firm enough the leaf 
will part from the 
plant. 
When set by hand 
either a trowel or a 
dibble is generally 
used. I prefer a dib- 
ble where a largenum- 
ber of plants are to be 
set. This implement 
is held in one hand 
and thrust into the 
ground witha peculiar 
sidewise motion. When withdrawn it leaves a 
hole, in which a plant is inserted to the proper 
depth by the other hand. A second thrust is 
made about two inches to one side and the dirt 
pressed firmly against the plant. The resultant 
hole made from the second thrust must be filled 
before passing on. A light tap of the dibble 
should be sufficient. It is more convenient 
to have some one drop the plants at the proper 
intervals on the row ahead of the dibbler. 
The dropper should not get very far ahead 
because the plants quickly dry out and wilt. 
With a trowel, dig a hole, insert the plant, 
and firm the dirt about it with the fingers. 
A small quantity of water placed about each 
plant while setting is often of great benefit 
especially during very dry weather. A good 
way is to make the holes for, say, one row. 
Then go along with a bucket of water and a 
dipper and pour a dipperful of water in each 
hole. By the time the last hole has been 
watered the water in the first hole will h ave 
seeped away sufficiently for one to set the 
plants in the usual way. After they are 
firmed in draw dry dirt, or rather dust, around 
each plant and maintain this dirt mulch to 
prevent evaporation. 
It is sometimes customary to shade the 
plants with shingles, paper bags and other 
specially constructed contrivances for this 
purpose. This is not usually necessary, 
though, if proper methods have been fol- 
lowed and the plants are robust. However, 
if they are very extensively covered it is 
well to uncover them during the night so that 
they may get a little air. 
Melons, cucumbers and plants of like nature, 
do not transplant readily because of their 
less extensive root system and an aversion to 
growing a new one. They may be trans- 
planted, however, by a little extra care, with 
an advantage, though, only as to earliness. 
Sow the seeds of such in a separate receptacle, 
as a paper pot, berry box, bottomless tin can, 
or in an upturned piece of sod. Place these 
in the hotbed or cold frame and when the 
propitious time arrives, move bodily to the 
spot where it is intended to set the plant. 
A hole is dug, the pot cut away, and the bunch 
of soil containing the growing plant may be 
then set in the hole, and firmed in place. 
In this way, if handled carefully, the plant, 
with its delicate roots, is hardly disturbed. 
