314 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
July, 1917 
Endive. Any kind, 65-75 days. 
Kale Dwarf Scotch, 75 days. 
Kohlrabi. White Vienna. 60 days. 
Lettuce. Black Seeded Simpson, 50 days; Wayahead, 55 days; 
All Season, 60 days; Iceberg and New York, 60-65 days. 
Peas. Little Marvel, 60 days; Thomas Laxton, 70-75 days. 
Radishes. Icicle, 50-35 days; Chartiers and White Lady 
Finger, 40-45 days; California Mammoth Winter, 70 days. 
Spinach. Victoria, 45-50 days; Long Season or Triumph, 55-60 
days. 
Turnips. Purple Top and White Milan, 45-50 days; Purple 
Top Strap Leaf, 65-75 days. Rutabaga, American Purple Top, 
75-80 days; Monarch or Elephant, 85-90 days. 
“Taking Stock” of the Early Garden 
AX 7 HEREeconomyin space is a factor it pays 
* * at this time to look over each row 
critically, asking yourself (i) Has it 
yielded the bulk of the crop? (2) What 
is it likely to yield from now on? Put 
aside all sentimental reasons in an- 
swering these questions. If returns from 
now on are apt to be scant, or, if only a poor 
stand was secured, pull up or hoe out the row 
without regrets and plant it to something 
assuring full returns from every inch of row 
between now and frost. For illustration, the 
middle of the month, some of the rows of 
early-planted beans will have yielded most of 
their pods; then pull them up, rake the ground 
level and sow beets, carrots, turnips or any 
other root crops for winter storage. 
Intrenching for Winter 
A FTER all, the important thing from now 
d ~V onward is: how much of the harvest can 
you save and store for use next winter? Let that 
be your guiding thought when deciding on July 
plantings. Late kinds of celery and cabbage 
keep better than early kinds, but also require 
a longer season to grow; when setting out 
plants, keep in mind that it may be necessary 
to protect them against severe frosts in the fall 
and do not plant them as far apart as you 
would ordinarily so that it will be easier to 
cover them. 
Of the root crops, parsnips may be left out in 
the garden all winter — under cover, of course. 
Turnips and rutabagas may be stored like 
potatoes in a cool cellar. Beets, carrots and 
salsify require a covering of soil or sand, other- 
wise they will shrivel badly and lose their 
usefulness for any purposes. 
Advancing the Reserves. 
Y'.OU may still gather cabbage, cauliflower, cel- 
ery and celeriac crops if you start with plants 
of sufficient size and age to reach maturity in 
80 to 90 days. The age of the plants really 
matters more than the size, and one of the best 
ways to judge age is by the roots. See that you 
buy strong roots rather than big tops. If you 
can find from your plant source when seeds to 
C roduce these plants were sown, so much the 
etter. 
Cabbages that will mature before frost from 
seeds sown not later than May 15th are Sure- 
head, Premium Flat Dutch and Danish Ball- 
head. The last named requires a strong, heavy 
clay soil to do well, so, if your garden soil is 
rather light, depend on the other two. Of red 
cabbage Danish Round Red is a particularly 
good keeper and is well liked for “slaw” in 
some sections. 
Cauliflower must have an abundance of 
moisture to do well. Unless you are willing 
to irrigate during July and August you are 
courting failure. Either Snowball or Dry 
Weather are satisfactory sorts for pickling and 
winter use. 
Celery. See that the plants have fine 
bunches of fibrous roots. I rim off about an 
inch of both top and roots before setting out. 
It stimulates the root system and prevents ex- 
cessive wilting of the tops. Celery is another 
crop requiring an abundance of moisture. Set 
the plants in rows three feet apart, six inches 
apart in the row. Hill or board up to blanch 
properly. Golden Self Blanching, New Easy 
Blanching for early use and Winter Queen or 
Giant Pascal for later will measure up to all 
quality requirements. 
Celeriac is a turnip-rooted form of celery 
ofFering an unexcelled flavor for soups and 
salads. A detailed article on this fine root 
crop will be found on page 231, June Garden 
Magazine. • 
1 JERE is a programme of varieties for pre- 
* -*■ sent sowing which will yield fully: 
Beans. Dwarf or bush kinds of earliest 
maturity only. Hopkins’s strain of Red Valen- 
tine may be sown up to July 15th, because it 
has the unusual record of bearing pods in 55 
.days from date of planting. Since the average 
first frost is September 20th, Red V alentine, from 
seeds sown middle of this month, will bear 
the bulk of its pods before cold “nips” the 
plants. 
During the first week in July sow either 
Bountiful, Full Measure or Burpee’s Stringless 
among the green-podded, or New Kidney Wax 
and Sure Crop Wax. among the yellow-podded 
kinds. Figuring on a light and a heavy picking 
before frost, you may count on three quarts of 
pods from every fifteen feet of row between 
September 1st and frost. 
Beets. The first week in July sees the last 
chance to plant the exceptionally good winter 
keeping variety Long Smooth Blood. After 
that, and up to July 20th, sow either Faust’s 
Early Crimson, Eclipse, Crosby’s Egyptian 
or Detroit Dark Red. All these reach good 
size (z\ to 3 inches in diameter) by fall. In 
exceptional cases Faust’s has reached the de- 
sirable two inch size for canning by September 
20th from seeds sown the first of August. But 
to do that, prompt germination must be pro- 
vided by pressing the seeds into firm contact 
with the soil and by providing moisture 
through irrigation whenever the natural 
supply fails. 
Carrots. Make liberal provisions this 
month to sow carrots for winter storage as 
they are one of the most wholesome foods for 
that purpose. Both, Chantenay and Danvers 
Half Long will grow to be six inches long by 
z\ inches in diameter at the crown from seeds 
sown up to July 15th. Carrots are not injured 
by the first light frosts and often thrive out- 
doors until the middle of October. 
Corn. Keep in mind that few sorts yield 
ears in less than 85 days. Do the country a 
patriotic service be devoting July 4th to sowing 
either Early Mayflower, Peep O’Day, or 
Golden Bantam in rows, z\ feet apart, plants 
a foot apart in row. This will spell sweet corn 
independence till frost. When gathering the 
first ears, don’t pull upward but give a quick 
downward twist. Pulling disturbs the feeding 
roots on which depend the development of 
further ears on the stalk. 
Cucumbers. Still time to provide pickles if 
you sow such extra early varieties, as White 
Spine, Cool and Crisp or Klondyke. 1 hese 
will reach the desirable three to four-inch size 
by the middle of September if you water the 
hills occasionally with liquid manure. Take a 
shovelful of well rotted cow or sheep manure 
to a gallon of water, let it stand for a few 
days and give each hill a quart twice a week. 
It’ll work wonders! 
Endive. Few people appreciate that 
properly blanched, handled and stored endive 
will keep quite as well as celery! Early White 
Curled sown during the first week in July will 
form large bunches by end of September. It 
stands considerable frost without injury — not 
unlike lettuce. Tie up plants in cones, to help 
blanch centre. Store just like celery — either 
cover the rows with dry leaves and boards or 
transfer to coldframe. 
Kohlrabi. You can grow this delicious 
turnip-rooted cabbage (fully described on 
page 231, June Garden Magazine) to 
eatable size in 60 days from sowing seeds 
if you sow either White or Purple Vienna. 
Kohlrabi is quite hardy, will continue 
to develop up to hard frosts and keeps 
as well as turnips. 
Lettuce. Up to the middle of the month sow 
heat-resisting mid-season sorts like All Season 
Butterhead and Iceberg Crisphead. Between 
July 15th and 30th, sow Naumburger or Ten- 
derheart, Black Seeded Tennisball or Big 
Boston. All these should be transplanted 
promptly as often as plants crowd each other 
in rows. Any of these sorts will stand con- 
siderable cold weather if afforded the slight 
protection of dry leaves or grass clippings or 
coarse straw. 
Peas. While midsummer sown peas will not 
yield the same quantities of pods as spring sown 
seeds, yet July sowings of this delicious 
vegetable prove well worth while. Select 
heavy bearing, quickly maturing sorts like 
Sutton’s Excelsior, Thomas Laxton or Little 
Marvel. All will perfect pods by September 
25th from seeds sown up to July 10th — not 
later! You can plant Pedigree Extra Early as 
late as August 1st, but you should not expect 
the quality of the sorts mentioned above in 
this or any other smooth-seeded variety. 
Pumpkins. If your early corn patch is of 
fair proportion (not less than 50 feet square) 
put a few seeds of Livingston’s Pie Pumpkin 
or Winter Luxury Squash in every third row 
after you cultivate the patch for the last time, 
but not later than July 10th. This particular 
type develops rapidly, is of unequalled 
quality and when carefully handled and stored 
the pumpkins keep well until midwinter. 
Radishes. 'Between July 1st and 15th, sow 
White Strasburg, California Winter, and 
Black Spanish for winter use. These grow to 
large size and should be “thinned” to stand 
six inches apart in the row. Their flesh being 
of remarkably firm texture, they keep remark- 
ably well, stored in boxes \yth dry sand or 
soil. After the middle of the month and up to 
July 30th sow Icicle, Cincinnati Market, 
Chartiers and Lady Finger. While all these 
develop rapidly, they withstand heat remark- 
ably well during August and will be in fine 
condition in September. 
Turnips and Rutabagas. Any time during 
the first week in July, sow Swedish turnips or 
rutabagas for winter use. , 1 hey require a 
longer time than the ordinary turnips in which 
to reach good size, but they have much firmer 
flesh and keep as well as potatoes. American 
Purple Top, Yellow Aberdeen and Monarch 
or Elephant are splendidly flavored kinds. All 
should be thinned out to stand at least six 
inches apart in rows. Up to July 20th Purple 
Top Strap Leaf, Amber Globe and White 
Globe turnips may be sown for early winter 
and late fall use. Generally about this 
time, some of the early plantings of bush beans 
have yielded the bulk of the crop. Pull them 
up, level the ridges and sow these kinds very 
thinly, later transplanting seedlings to stand 
four inches apart. This is an ideal succession. 
