July, 1917 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
323 
a re-potting process. A well scoured spade 
is quite a factor for the soil will cling to a rusty 
spade and thus be torn from the roots in 
drawing the tool out of the ground. Some 
perennials such as Bleeding-heart whose roots 
break apart easily must be handled with 
greater care than others such as Phlox, Iris, 
etc. My experience is that every perennial 
hardy in my locality can be successfully 
moved “out of season.” 
Some interesting facts developed in the 
course of this transplanting. Delphiniums 
moved in summer tend to bloom again in fall. 
Hemerocallis moved just before the flower 
buds come forth will have their bloom re- 
tarded all of two weeks. This, however, has 
proven true of all the perennials: that trans- 
planting out of season has retarded their 
bloom more or less though it has seldom im- 
paired it. For such late bloomers as Bolton- 
ias and New England Asters this would of 
course not become apparent inasmuch as 
these bloom up to frost anyway. [We read re- 
cently in an English paper a note on trans- 
planting Peonies as the flowers fade. It was 
done with complete success. As a matter of 
fact almost any plant is in condition for mov- 
ing just after flowering. — Editor.] 
Root pruning a shrub several weeks before 
transplanting is a great aid to success. This 
is done simply by thrusting a spade into the 
ground as deep as it will go all around the 
plant, marking off thus the bulk of soil that 
is to be moved with the roots. A tile spade 
is best because of its length. Also the spade 
should be held diagonally so that all the spade 
thrusts will tend to meet under the plant. 
Cutting back the top somewhat likewise 
helps. In this pruning, the gardener must 
seek to balance the top to the lessened root 
system. This will adapt the shrub to its 
new condition even before it is moved and 
will make the transplanting more in the nature 
of re-potting. Root pruning tends to develop 
small rootlets and root hairs, the very thing 
the shrub will need to establish itself in its 
new location. To make certain that enough 
soil be moved with the roots, a box can be 
built about the roots. The writer has found 
this last necessary only in transplanting 
Peonies and then circumstances required that 
the plant be kept out of the soil for several 
weeks. 
The hardier the plant, the more readily it 
transplants out of season. Our native Goose 
berry will transplant anytime and the work 
may even be done somewhat carelessly. So 
with the Rose that is actually hardy with 
us, Gruss an Teplitz, it can be moved at 
any time though of course the transplant- 
ing should be done with care. I have suc- 
ceeded in moving even Elms and Bass- 
woods with their leaves more than two- 
thirds grown and attribute the 'success to 
ground preparation, root pruning and careful 
watering. 
Transplanting out cf season is not alone 
confined to the garden but many natives may 
be moved from the wild. The nature of the 
soil and the distance the plants often need to 
be hauled makes this kind of transplanting 
somewhat more difficult though it need not 
be the less successful on that account, provided 
of course that proportionate care is exercised. 
Wild flowers such as Blood-root, Violets, 
Jack-in-the-pulpit are not hard to move, 
even in bloom, while with shrubbery, the 
writer has found the Native Plum the only dif- 
ficult subject. Wild Roses are always sure 
to grow. Choke-cherries will send forth a 
second crop of leaves if the first should wilt. 
M ild shrubbery needs to be cut back more 
severely than that in the garden. Crataegus 
and the wild Crabapple moved out of 
season may even seem to die, yet the follow- 
ing spring you will find most of them vigor- 
ously sending forth their buds. 
Simplifying Garden Warfare F F £2S, WELL 
HOW TO GET DOWN TO THE LEAST COMMON DENOMINATORS IN THE CONTROL OF INSECTS AND DISEASES 
T here is no 
place for the 
pacifist in the 
war garden. 
The “conscientious 
objector” whatever 
moral ground he 
may take against 
war, in his own veg- 
etable patch must 
shoot to kill or go 
hungry. No treat- 
ing with the enemy 
is possible here; you 
must get him, and 
get him quick, or he 
will get you by the 
starvation process. 
It’s a fight to the 
finish. 
Hardly one gar- 
den in ten that left 
to itself comes through the average season 
without having one or more crops badly in- 
jured, if not practically destroyed, by some 
insect pest or disease — and never just the 
same lot of pests in two successive years. 
WHY THE BUGS GET AWAY WITH IT 
The fact that so little is usually done to 
prepare in advance for the impending battle 
with the bugs can not be put down wholly to 
mere indifference. Rather it is a general state 
of mental confusion as to just what can be 
done, to make ready for the attack. Every 
gardener knows that there are some dozens of 
bugs, worms, and fungi which may possibly 
wage war on his carefully nurtured plants be- 
fore the season is over. He knows that they 
are of all kinds and descriptions with long 
scientific names that make them appear at 
first sight, proof against anything less than a 
gatling gun; and he does not feel that he can go 
to the trouble and expense of fortifying him- 
self against the whole horde. So he decides to 
The boring or burrowing pest is more elusive. Prevention 
against attack is the better course 
wait until some particular thing puts in an ap- 
pearance, and then try against it whatever his 
most experienced garden friends may recom- 
mend. 
M''hat he does not know, in the majority of 
cases, is that this apparently very complex 
army of invasion can be treated as consisting of 
a very few groups or classes, the individual 
members of each of which can all be dealt 
with in much the same way. 
This fact, once it is thoroughly grasped, sim- 
plifies the whole problem of garden warfare 
immensely. It means that the gardener has but 
five or six lines of attack to prepare himself 
against, instead of thirty or forty. Even the 
Latin names, so dear to the heart of the experi- 
ment station bulletinist, may be dispensed with 
in considering ways and means of arming 
for defense. Even the beginner, who has 
had a little practical experience, so that he 
can tell a potato bug from a cabbage maggot, 
and a melon louse from a cut-w'orm, will be 
able, if he goes at the problem in this way, 
to determine almost at once the nature of the 
particular thing he has to fight, and what to use 
against it. 
The problem of “remedies” is almost as 
complicated and confused as that of enemies. 
Reliable manufacturers give a description] of 
contents, and such goods are put up in a 
“ ready-to-use” form which saves much labor 
in the garden. By all means use them. To get 
at the “ patent insides,” however, giving the 
chief or active ingredients instead of manu- 
facturers’ trade names, quickly reduces the 
problem of selection to its least common de- 
A1I sucking pests (lice and scale) must be smothered by a 
contact spray of oily or tobacco preparations 
nominators, just as grouping the many insects 
and diseases simplifies the problem of attack. 
ONLY FOUR TYPES OF INSECT ENEMIES 
Let us then begin at the beginning — even if 
it means repeating a few things you already 
know — and state the problem and the remedy, 
so far as one is available, in the simplest pos- 
sible terms. 
Insects, on the whole, can be controlled more 
successfully than fungus diseases. And yet 
in the home garden they are much more likely 
to cause damage. Diseases are more likely 
to prove serious where the same crop is grown 
over large areas than they are in the small 
garden. Insects, on the other hand, seem 
usually to be able to locate the single row of a 
certain crop in the home garden as quickly 
as they do the field of several acres, and do 
comparatively more damage there because the 
gardener is not prepared to fight them, and the 
grower is. How is the small gardener to prepare 
himself against their attacks? 
First of all he must learn to distinguish be- 
tween the various types of intruders — what 
their past, present, pluperfect or maiden latin 
names may be matter little. Here is what he 
can usually tell about them himself, with his 
own eyes, after a few minutes’ observation or 
search. They either 
Eat the foliage, or fruit, or stems of the 
The sturdy potato bug, 
type of the chewing insect 
that can be attacked by a 
stomach poison 
