February, 1915 
T H E GARDEN M A G AZIN E 
*21 
allows inspection from a near or further 
range. Four of the very robust growers 
are placed in the corners— Frau Karl 
Druschki, the very best white; Margaret 
Dickson, another white that is very woody 
in growth; Magna Charta, deep pink, and 
Soliel d’Or, yellow, both of stout branching 
habit, in the south bed. In the north bed 
we then arrange three good red sorts and 
one more white, making this a bed of con- 
trast of deep red and white; in the south 
bed, a similar grouping of the lighter shades 
of pink with one deep red. In front of 
these we will put a row of Hybrid Teas, in 
the three colors — white, pink, and red — 
the red on each side being on the centre of 
the beds. 
The central bed is planned to give bloom 
all summer, so the most robust everbloomers 
are used. The three sorts that make the 
middle row are chosen rather for their 
height and vigor than their bloom, for they 
are not continuous bloomers. Hermosa 
and Clothilde Soupert are true bedding 
roses, and will be all that are needed to 
give a bed of flowers all summer, but I have 
suggested using also the Crimson and Pink 
Baby Ramblers, with an edging of White 
Baby Ramblers. 
We have supposed that Tea Roses will 
not stand the winters of the region for which 
this garden is planned, but there is a place 
near the arbor on each side where the Cochet 
roses, which stand considerable zero weather 
when properly cared for, may be planted. 
If they are a failure, their place may be 
taken entirely by some summer-blooming 
perennial as garden phlox, which may be 
introduced in several points in the garden 
(not too near the roses) to give color in mid- 
summer. 
The Hybrid Tea Roses should be faced 
down with some permanent low perennials, 
such as creeping phlox (Phlox subulata), 
white horned violet (Viola cornuta, var. 
alba), white stonecrop (Sedum album), 
or other ground cover herb that suits the 
soil, while thousands of white squills, 
(Scilla sibirica, var. alba) and spring and 
autumn crocus (Crocus vernus and Colchi- 
cum autumnale) in their white forms rather 
than in the blue or purple, tucked away 
under the roses, will give interest to the 
garden when the roses are dormant. 
The central panel, too, may be assisted 
in its purpose by a few herbs. A few thous- 
and giant snowdrops (Galanthus Elwesii) 
will wait impatiently for you to uncover 
them in March, or even hurry the season 
for you; and some low herb with scarlet 
flowers, as the coral bells (Heuchera san- 
guinea) will blaze forth before the roses get 
started and make a pleasing companion for 
them through the summer. The planting list 
follows, the number at the beginning of each 
line is the reference number on the plan 
ENTRANCE PLANTING 
ABOUT a COUNTRY RESIDENCE. 
STEPHEN F. HAMBLIN, BOSTON, MASS 
L ANDSC APE Ot SIGNER. NOVEMBER, /?/-7 
ric an 
* Etrn 
Burb erry 
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/<U net MOO dJZZfK’s/ 
Snow be. rry 
. /?e d - fr uiteiL, — LJap an <zs%> 
\ChokebernA // burnum 
• Maple. 
Flowering 
Crab 
fiburnam 
., Japanest 
\BorberrL 
NA TURA L WO 0 D 5 
OAK AND CHESTNUT 
N A TUR AL WOODS 
Undergrowth o{ Witch Ha^et 
Native Undergrowth 
This planting scheme for an entrance and turn-around will make a general appeal. It has features that may be adopted separately to fit smaller places in whole or in part 
