16 
T H E G A R I) E N M A G A Z I N E 
February, 1915 
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Planting plan for the wet border in which Japanese iris and Japanese anemones furnish the features with various other plants as individuals. 
Scale Yi inch equals 1 ft. 
have a big clump of Heuchera sanguinea 
with good bronzy leaves all winter and 
a great cloud of delicate bloom in the middle 
of June. Some of the newer hybrids give 
scattering bloom throughout the year. 
The double tulip Murillo, with pink and 
white flowers goes well to precede this; 
Anthericum liliago, var. major gives white 
flowers at the same time and Gladiolus 
America may be planted later for August 
bloom. 
Unlike tulips, of which the pale yellow 
retroflexa and the glowing crimson scarlet 
Gesneriana major are my special favorites 
for borders, narcissus are rather difficult 
in the border because of the heavy mass 
of foliage which breaks down soon after 
flowering. A few clumps must go in, and 
Viola cuculata is good to go in with them. 
Just a plant or two will be more than enough 
because it seeds pestiferously; but it is 
worth having, even though the flowers are 
odorless, because it can be cut down re- 
peatedly and still yield a fresh clump of 
leaves. There are white and bicolor forms 
of it as well as the purple type. 
Then there must be purple and lavender 
crocuses in the garden, if you can keep them 
away from the blue of Scilla sibirica. To 
my notion, the blue of the squill is so much 
more perfect than the color of any crocus 
that ever grew, that I could resign the cro- 
cuses without a murmur if the garden were 
too small for both. But if some of the 
dark purple and lavenders are planted in 
little clumps near some later blooming 
perennial with tufted habit such as Armeria 
or the coarser Lychnis viscaria the effect is 
rather good. 
Another good early combination is the 
Heavenly Blue variety of the grape hyacinth 
(Muscari botryoides) planted near the upper 
edge of a sheet of Cerastium tomentosum. 
A single plant of Adonis vernalis and a 
few of plants of Myosotis Victoria (best 
treated as an annual) would form pleasing 
incidents here. Or perhaps three or four 
bulbs of Narcissus Golden Spur or Cam- 
pernelle rugulosus — or if you prefer smaller 
scale, a little clump of the tiny Narcissus 
jonquilla with dark green rush-like leaves 
and starry, golden, fragrant flowers. Back 
of a clump like this, of which the Cerastium 
alone can be counted on for all summer, put 
some clump of plants which will start slowly 
in the spring and have later interest. A 
clump of Funkia lanceolata would be good, 
because like all the funkias it is late to start, 
has admirable foliage and charming lavender 
flowers in September. 
And behind the funkia there could be 
good clumps of Doronicum plantagineum, 
var. excelsum or of Corydalis nobile. 
These are two very different plants which 
come up with a rush in the spring and pro- 
duce a fine display of bloom and then more 
or less disappear. Then back of them 
would have to be some good tall late plant 
again, probably a group of phlox with 
Michaelmas daisies behind, for we are pretty 
well to the back of the border by now. 
Perhaps not a whole group of phlox should 
go in with the Michaelmas daisies. I saw 
a border last summer that was backed with 
a mass of pale lavender asters and among 
them were just a few stalks of a late bloom- 
ing cerise pink phlox. The effect was really 
very charming, especially if one could add a 
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This border of perennials gives great variety by reason of inter and under planting. The lower part of this plan should be extended on the right of this portion to form one 
entire border 
This border is designed to accommodate the greatest number of kinds in the smallest space, yet having due regard to proportion of mass, succession of effects, and continuity 
of bloom. Use three plants for each colony. Iris and phlox can be planted closely to make a clump at once. The shaded areas show underplantings of bulbs. Scale Yi inch 
to 1 ft. approximately. B. Y. Morrison, Designer 
