112 
T HE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
March, 1915 
Practical Books on 
Building and Business Problems 
Advertising — 
Selling the 
Consumer 
By 
JOHN LEE MAHIN 
President of the Mahin Ad- 
vertising Co., Chicago, and 
Lecturer on Advertising 
before several Universities 
This book is the out- 
growth of a series of 
notable lectures de- 
livered by Mr. Ma- 
hin before North- 
western University. 
It presents a com- 
prehensive survey 
of the organization 
of modern adver- 
tising through which 
it serves its great 
function of “Selling 
the Consumer.” 
Everyone is affected 
by advertising and 
this book describes 
how advertising is 
practiced. Just Out. 
Illustrated. Net $2.00. 
Complete Plans from a $500 
Bungalow to a $10,000 House 
Keith’s House Plans 
By WALTER J. KEITH 
With a description of special features and 
illustration of the finished house in every 
case* It is full of ideas for the prospective 
home builder. 
( Prices given are exclusive of heating , 
plumbing , electric work, lighting and deco- 
ration.) 
The Books 
Cottages and Bungalows costing from 
$500.00 to $2000.00 (172 plans). 
Cottages and Houses costing from 
$2,000.00 to $2,500.00 (138 plans). 
Cottages and Houses costing from 
$2,500.00 to $3,000.00 (124 plans). 
Cottages and Houses costing from 
$3,000.00 to $4,000.00 (121 plans). - 
Modern Houses costing $4,000.00 and 
over (123 plans). 
Each Volume, Bound in Green Cloth, 
Net $1.00. 
The Building Of It 
A Handbook for Every Home Builder 
By WALTER J. KEITH 
With its help any one can superintend 
the building of his house and tell whether 
the work is being properly done. JustOut. 
Illustrated from Photographs and many 
Diagrams, etc. Net $1 .00. 
The New 
Business 
By 
HARRY TIPPER 
President, Advertising 
Men’s League, New York; 
Advertising Manager, The 
Texas Company; Lecturer 
on Advertising, New York 
University. 
A book for every 
business man, and 
this is also a book 
for any one in any 
way interested or 
affected by business 
- — which means every- 
one. Here is pre- 
sented with singu- 
lar clearness the 
commercial back- 
ground from which 
modern business has 
sprung. The fun- 
damentals of ad- 
vertising and sell- 
ing and marketing 
are stated with 
clearness and illus- 
trated with concrete 
cases. Just Out. 
Illustrated with charts, 
etc. Net $2.00. 
Practical Talks on Farm Engineering 
By R. P. CLARKSON, B. S. 
Professor of Engineering, Acadia University, Nova Scotia. 
Actual problems that everyone who lives in the country is sure to run up against. 
Water supply, sewage disposal, building and fence construction, heating and lighting 
— these are some of the subjects discussed in a practical way. Just Out. 
Illustrated from Photographs and many Diagrams. Net $1.00. 
Publications of DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO., Garden City, N. Y. 
Hardy English Walnuts 
My Hardy Pennsylvania Grown 
Trees grafted on Black Walnut 
Stocks are perfectly hardy and 
bear young and abundantly. 
ALSO HARDY PECAN TREES 
Write for handsome catalogue 
J. P. JONES The Nut Tree Specialist, Lancaster, I*a. 
SCHOOL OF HORTICULTURE FOR WOMEN 
(18 Miles from ‘Philadelphia ) 
Spring Term of regular two-year 
course begins Feb. 2nd. Practical and 
theoretical training in the growing of 
fruits, vegetables and flowers. Simple 
carpentry. Bees. Poultry. Preserving. 
School Gardening and the Principles of 
Landscape Gardening. Constant de- 
mand for trained women to fill salaried 
positions. Write for Catalogue. 
Jt‘t«ie T. Morgan. Director 
Ambler, l*a. 
gurpee's^eeds Qrow 
See full page advertisement on 4th cover of this issue. 
W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO., Burpee Buildings, Philadelphia 
Grafting for the Amateur 
'T"'HE work is not really difficult although it is 
important to give attention to certain details. 
It should always be borne in mind that the graft 
must have a real affinity to the stock on which it is 
placed. A union is brought about between a pear 
and a quince, though hardly between a pear and 
a peach. 
One or two tools should be at hand when grafting 
is to be undertaken. It is well to secure a proper 
grafting knife which, above everything else, should 
be sharp. In addition a small sharp chisel with a 
handy mallet will be useful for hewing out the open- 
ings in deft grafting. Also buy a tin of grafting 
wax, and a quantity of raffia or a similar tying 
material. It is possible to prepare a substitute for 
the grafting wax but it is hardly worth the trouble. 
Always choose mild weather for grafting, and any 
spell which occurs in March would be suitable. 
An old gardener who taught me how to graft 
always said that if you once got the right idea into 
your mind you could always carry out the work 
successfully. The idea is that to bring about a 
union it is absolutely essential that the layers of the 
inner bark , both in the graft and the stock, be brought 
together. The woody part of the cion and stock 
never join together, however many years the graft 
may remain in position. It is of course understood 
that the stock should always be rooted and, granted 
this, it does not much matter what the age or shape 
of the tree may be. In the case of old’specimens it 
may be convenient to cut the branches back to a 
few stumps and in this way provide plenty of head 
room for the later growth. 
Many methods of grafting are possible but the 
simplest forms will be found to answer almost every 
need which is likely to arise. The first plan, 
commonly known as whip grafting, is most suitable 
where the stock and graft are of a similar size. The 
first step is to cut off the stock and then shape the 
end in slantwise fashion. The cion or graft must 
be made to fit on to the stock, and it is extremely 
important that the layer of new material between 
the bark and the old wood should meet in the case 
of the ! raft and the stock. Of course the graft 
might be a success even if the union - was only 
effected on one side, but a special effort should be 
made to get as good a fit as possible. Holding the 
graft firmly in position, take hold of a long piece of 
raffia and secure the cion in its place. Now open the 
tin of grafting wax and, with a chip of wood, take 
out a quantity and smear it well over the joint be- 
tween the cion and the stock. There is nothing 
more to be done now save to leave the graft and 
hope for the best. 
Where the stock is very large it is well to adopt 
the method known as cleft grafting. First of all 
the stock is headed down, and then a slit, or a cleft, 
is made in the side of it. This cut should be made 
with a chisel in such a way that it is wide at the 
opening and narrows down at the part which is 
innermost. The cut should also end in a point at 
the lower portion. The graft must be carefully 
cut in the form of a wedge so that it will just fit 
nicely into the opening in the stock. [See also page 
86 of this issue of The Garden Magazine for 
illustrations by the present writer. — Ed.] 
Wax may be made at home by using four parts 
of resin, two parts of beeswax and one part of 
tallow, all by weight. The ingredients should be 
melted on the stove but not allowed to come to the 
boiling point. Then the mixture should be poured 
into cold water, where it will harden, but it should 
be manipulated by the hands under water. Before 
it becomes brittle it should be removed and worked 
much like molasses candy until it is fine and white. 
The use of more tallow makes a softer wax, while a 
larger proportion of beeswax will make a harder 
grade. Any wax prepared in this way will last 
for years and be ready for use at any time. 
The operator should never fail to thoroughly 
grease his hands when applying the wax to the 
trees, for otherwise he will be unable to spread it. 
Probably tallow is the best grease for the purpose. 
If work is being done above the ground the backs 
of the hands may be heavily smeared with the 
tallow, which will provide a supply when a new 
greasing of the hands is needed without making it 
necessary for the operator to climb down from the 
tree. S. Leonard Bastin. 
The Readers' Service will furnish information about foreign travel 
