April. 1915 
THE GARDE N M A G A Z I N E 
161 
of the hole upward is essential. If any of the 
soil is left loose, or if air spaces are left about 
the roots, they will dry out. After the hole 
is filled, an inch of loose earth should be 
spread over the surface around the tree to 
prevent the soil from baking. 
Shaping the tops. The top of the tree 
should be cut back somewhat to balance the 
reduced root system. If the entire top is 
left intact it will evaporate more water than 
can be taken up by the roots which are 
necessarily shortened and disturbed in 
transplanting. The amount of top pruning 
depends upon how much the roots have been 
reduced and also upon the ability of the 
species of tree to put out new growth from 
the older parts which remain. 
The peach, nectarine, apricot and Japan- 
ese plum should have all side branches re- 
moved and the main stem shortened to 
about two feet in height, as a rule. If, 
however, these trees are very large, say five 
or six feet in height, the main stem may be 
cut back so as to leave from three to five of 
the lower limbs which form the branching 
system of the tree. These main limbs also 
should be shortened to six inches or a foot in 
length. These species produce branches 
readily even from the dormant buds of the 
stem of the tree. 
The cherry does not, readily sprout from 
dormant buds on the older parts. It grows 
best from the active buds at the terminals of 
the branches. For that reason it is best not 
toshortenitslimbsas this removes the active 
terminal buds. The top may not be re- 
moved greatly, as the few active buds that 
start will not call for a large water supply 
from the roots. If the cherry has too many 
limbs, some of them may be removed, 
cutting close to the trunk. The main 
central leader also may be cut out if it is 
desired to shape the tree to an open centre 
and broad, low, spreading form like the 
peach. Enough branches should be left 
intact (three to five) to form the framework 
of the tree. 
The apple, pear, quince and European 
and American plums should be cut back 
with a medium degree of severity. These 
trees do not sprout so readily from the old, 
dormant stem as does the peach but their 
lateral buds are more active than are those 
of the cherry. 
As a rule their limbs should be 
shortened to about one-half their 
length. If the variety is an upright, 
symmetrical grower, and it is desired 
to shape it for pyramidal form the . 
laterals may be shortened about one- 
half and the main leader left intact. If 
the tree is a spreading, open-headed variety 
four or five main spreading limbs may be 
left intact and the central portion pruned 
out to give an open centre. In some 
cases one year old trees of these 
species may possess no well developed 
lateral branches. In su I ch cases 
the lateral buds will be j active 
and the tree may be sh j ortened 
to the height desired I for the 
formation of the br j anching 
Shade trees. In I set ting 
thinned out and shortened. In shortening 
a limb it should be cut to a lateral twig so it 
may be terminated by an active growing part. 
Occasionally a newly set tree may fail to 
start its branches equally. The more 
active limbs may push first and make strong 
growth while the remaining limbs are dor- 
mant. If not attended to, this will result 
in an unsymmetrical tree. In such cases 
the precocious limbs should be pinched 
back. If this pinching is followed up as 
necessary the dormant limbs will be forced 
into growth and a symmetrical tree secured. 
Commandments 
Spring Pruning 
TIOU shalt not remove, in 
A one season, all unnecessary 
wood from old neglected trees, but 
shalt distribute the work over two 
or three years and avoid shocking and 
checking the trees. 
II. Thou shalt not leave a stub; prune 
Hush with the main branch if thou wouldst 
prevent rot and destruction. 
III. Thou shalt not leave unpainted, 
wounds of a diameter greater than two 
inches; cover them with asphaltum, thick 
lead or some such enduring paint. 
IV. Thou shalt not leave the prunings 
and rubbish about the orchard, but shalt 
carefully rake it together and burn it 
V. Thou shalt not cut large limbs so that 
they will tear off strips of bark as they fall; 
cut part way through the branch from be- 
low, first, then cut completely through from 
the top and trim up the stub afterward. 
VI. Thou shalt not remove all the lower 
limbs in order to “clean up” the trees, but- 
shalt prune gently for a low, spreading, 
open top to catch the light and air. 
VII. Thou shalt not remove a branch not 
even a twig, without a definite reason. 
VIII. Thou shalt not set one certain 
day for your pruning, and no other; but 
shalt remove dead wood and branches that 
chafe whenever you find them. Complete 
thy real spring pruning, however, before 
growth commences. 
IX. Thou shalt not prune in the spring 
those shrubs and vines that flower on last 
season’s growth, e. g., forsythia, lilac, and 
other spring flowering sorts; for thereby 
wilt thou remove the flower spurs. 
X. Thou shalt not use dull tools; keep 
thy shears, saw and pruning hooks keen, 
clean and in their places. This is the last 
and great commandment. 
Picture suggestion for using rough steps as a rockery 
Shape your tree at planting time. This shows a two- 
year old apple tree and the cross lines indicate where the 
roots should be trimmed and the limbs cut to secure an 
open spreading top 
ployed than in the case of fruit trees. 
The same principles should be observed, 
however, in setting them out. Tall species 
should be pruned so as to secure a central 
leader and the side branches should be 
Picture suggestion for planting along an old stone wall 
