May. 1915 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
207 
off, but it is prone to start as blue and wind 
up with a reddish purple tone. 
Remains the littlest primrose — the 
bird’s eye (P. farinosa). This is not very 
showy, but is a good low plant for spring 
variety. 
Some of the other hardy primulas worth 
trying here, but not so readily obtainable, 
are P. marginata and the blue variety of 
the same; the purple P. capitata of the 
Himalayas and the similar P. Veitchii of 
interior China; the white P. involucrata 
and its variety, Monroi , and P . rosea. 
All the primulas mentioned demand 
spring sunshine, summer shade, some shelter 
from the heavy winds, enough rise of ground 
to insure good drainage and no standing 
water or ice in cold weather, as well as soil 
that is at least good and is kept from drying 
out in summer. Some kinds I have grown 
successfully in full sunshine, but I favor 
either the north side of a border or a place 
where a tree casts partial shade. If they 
look parched in summer give them a good 
watering; they make their growth then. 
Leafmold or cocoa fibre may be spread on 
the soil to keep it moist. While many in- 
crease rapidly enough to separate every 
year, the plants are better off, and more ef- 
fective, if left undisturbed for two or three 
years. Separate auriculas in the fall; the 
others after the spring blooming, by taking 
the crowns between the fingers and pulling 
sidewise to untangle the long roots. 
For winter protection use loose leaves 
for the most part around the plants. 
Manure is dangerous; I have known it to 
kill primulas. If the frost, or the wash of 
rain, raises the crown of a plant above the 
ground it should either be reset or more soil 
placed around it. 
Where the garden conditions are not 
suitable, or convenient, for permanent 
plantings of hardy primulas, there need be 
no lack of them there in springtime. After 
flowering dig them up and plant out in 
rows in partial shade. Then in autumn 
restore them to the borders, repeating the 
process every year. With few exceptions 
they will stand any amount of moving, 
about. If this is done, leave a few in 
the temporary rows all winter and early 
in April pot them for blooming in a 
window. 
Getting Fruit in the Fruit Garden — By J. R. Mattern, fy"™, 
SPRAYING A MODERN NECESSITY, INSURING REGULAR CROPS AND HEALTHY 
GROWTH— SPECIAL CARE THAT CAN BE EASILY GIVEN IN THE HOME GARDEN 
I T IS easy to have your fruit trees bear- 
ing regularly if certain primary re- 
quirements are met. Some of the 
things set down here or in the next 
article are necessities, like spraying and 
pruning and borer work. Other things, 
such as the irrigation that will be proposed, 
and the continuous pinching of the tips 
and buds, frankly are frills that usually 
can not be made use of in commercial 
orchards because they would require too 
much work or would cost too much. But 
they can be used in a fruit garden because 
there the sum total of the work, even when 
greatest, amounts to so little after all. 
The suggestions given may be applied 
in any fruit garden, new or old, large or 
small, but special attention is given to the 
fruit garden just planted this spring or last 
fall. If you grow dwarf fruit trees you 
should expect to give them extra attention 
in their pruning and cultivation and feed- 
ing. Except in a few cases that will be 
mentioned, the proper culture of dwarf 
trees is almost the same as the proper cul- 
ture of standard trees, differing only in 
degree — the dwarfs require more intensive 
care. During the last twenty years the 
methods used in orcharding and in fruit 
growing have been changed and improved 
greatly. The methods used by our fathers 
no longer will grow flawless fruit or pro- 
duce regular crops. 
MODERN SPRAYING 
You can not expect to have healthy trees 
and plants and to grow flawless fruit with- 
out spraying. In this century it can’t be 
done. Be convinced that spraying is one 
of the essentials. Some of the enemies that 
may attack your apple and pear trees are 
the codling moth (which is the parent of 
the apple worm), curculio, leaf spot or frog 
eye, scab, measuring worm, bud moth, tent 
caterpillar, brown rot and bitter rot and 
sooty fungus, apple blotch and cedar rust. 
Peaches, plums, cherries and other stone 
fruits are attacked by curculio, scab, brown 
rot and leaf spot. Grapes are attacked 
by black rot, leaf roller and mildews. 
Strawberries, currants, gooseberries and 
other berries are attacked by lice, worms, 
and blights of various kinds. In addition 
to the enemies named, nearly all the fruits 
are attacked by San Jose scale, aphids, 
oyster shell scale and scrufy scale and a few 
other troubles that need not be named. 
It is not likely that all or even many of 
these enemies will attack your trees, but 
any of them may appear in your garden at 
any time. You therefore must be prepared 
to control them all. To identify each of 
these enemies is a big and confusing job, 
and it is unnecessary because they all 
Nowadays spraying is an essential in growing fruit. Use 
a nozzle that gives a fine mist and don’t omit to get under 
the leaves as well as over 
classify into three divisions, and the remedy 
for every one of those within each division 
is the same. More than this, the remedies 
for the different classes may be combined 
into one spray, and a spraying campaign 
can be carried out that pretty nearly hits 
all the enemies. Some spraying always is 
required and it costs little or nothing addi- 
tional to carry out a campaign that will 
clean up the entire list of possible enemies. 
These three classes of enemies are (i) 
fungi; (2) chewing insects; and (3) sucking 
insects. Good examples of fungi are peach 
leaf curl and the rots of apples. San Jose 
scale and the aphids are examples of sucking 
insects. The codling moth and the tent 
caterpillar are excellent examples of chew- 
ing insects. Fire blight of pear and apple 
and yellows of peach are diseases caused 
by bacteria. They can not be remedied by 
spraying. 
The standard remedy for fungi is lime- 
sulphur solution. The standard remedy 
for chewing insects is arsenate of lead. For 
sucking insects several remedies are em- 
ployed. Lime-sulphur is a chief one of 
these, but for certain sucking insects whale 
(or fish) oil soap solution, the so-called 
soluble oils, or a solution of tobacco have 
been found well suited. Each one of these 
is offered in proprietary forms by the manu- 
facturers which are advised for use in the 
home garden. The remedy must be ap- 
plied just at the right time and it must 
be of the right strength, to be effective. 
The enemies can be killed or controlled 
only at certain stages in their develop- 
ment. At other times no efforts will dis- 
lodge them. 
For apple, quince, and pear trees use a 
lime-sulphur solution at the strength re- 
commended by the manufacturers, which 
will be about one and a half gallons of the 
commercial solution to each fifty gallons 
of water; or you may use reliable powdered 
