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T IIE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
July, 1915 
there are several clubs whose membership is partly 
made up of men, and, the ideal federation being on a 
democratic basis, the men cannot be excluded from 
their rights. 
Does this sound like Kipling’s “Army of a Dream?” 
Perhaps; it is here presented as a dream for criticism 
and comment. There will no doubt be unavoidable 
expenses, such as the hiring of a hall, attendant on 
State and National meetings, but all will be of the 
simplest, the expense will be kept as small as 
possible, and equally divided among the clubs. 
There will be no question of individual wealth; each 
club will stand its delegate’s expenses, delegates to a 
distant convention will not come often from any one 
club; the clubs with smaller treasuries will have to 
economize for that one year, and those with no dues 
at all, will have to assess for once ! 
There will be no question of social position, for all 
clubs will belong, and there will be a regulation pro- 
viding that in the course of time each must be repre- 
sented at conventions. 
There will always be the question of good work, 
for each club will send its best workers to the front 
— not its most ornamental members! There will 
be no politics, no wire-pulling, no fighting, for this is 
the federation of a dream. The richer organizations 
will extend the hospitality of large gardens or 
houses for the use of conventions; the less wealthy 
will help with practical advice and assistance. 
If, in the natural course of human events, mis- 
fortunes and misunderstandings do occur, they will 
be dealt with as wisely as human nature will allow, 
for “no one shall work for money, and no one shall 
work for fame, but each for the joy of working;” and 
the gardens of the people, planted and helped by the 
people, watched over and shared for the sake of the 
people, shall go a long way toward cementing our 
national unity. Mary Youngs. 
Another New Canna, “City of Portland” 
A NEW canna has been registered with the de- 
partment of plant registration of the New York 
Florists’ Club by the Conard and Jones Company, 
who have given it the name of City of Portland. 
This canna is a cross of Mrs. Alfred F. Conard and 
Venus, and produces flowers in great profusion on 
erect branching stalks. The color of the flower is 
a rich, flowing pink, deeper than Mrs. Alfred F. 
Conard; it is an early bloomer, very free. The 
foliage is green; the height of the plant is about 
three and a half feet. 
A New Killarney Rose Sport, “Champ Weiland” 
A T THE Executive Committee meeting of the 
American Rose Society, held in New York 
City on May ioth, the registration of a new rose, to 
be named Champ Weiland, was published. It is 
a sport of Pink Killarney, originating in the estab- 
lishment of Messrs. Weiland and Risch, at Evanston, 
111 . The buds are large and full; the color is a 
bright clear glistening pink, inner and reverse side 
of petals identical and fadeless. It is more free 
than its parent and more sweetly scented. The 
foliage is remarkable, being of a glowing, reddish 
character prevalent from planting time to the end 
of the season. 
Hot Weather Gardening 
T RY in every way to conserve the moisture 
during the heated term. Work in between the 
plants with the fork trowel, or a small pointed hoe. 
Put the grass clippings around the roses, unless 
there is a ground cover of alyssum or verbenas or 
other low growing plants. Water after sunset, 
letting the spray fall gently on the flowers, pre- 
ferably about the roots, and if time and water are 
to be considered do thoroughly a portion each day 
rather than a sprinkling of the whole garden every 
day. 
Keep up a succession of plantings. Annuals 
sowed now will give flowers in the fall. Corn- 
flowers. larkspur, mignonette, alyssum, pansies, 
nasturtiums are easy to grow. Plant gladiolus 
bulbs, and the dahlias grown from seed can be now 
transplanted. 
At the end of month, or in August, perennials for 
next year’s bloom can be sown in the coldframe, to 
be transplanted in the spring. Unless seeds are 
especially wanted, cut off all old flowers; seeding 
takes strength from the plant. Keeping the garden 
well trimmed makes more continuous bloom. Fer- 
tilize with manure water every two weeks, going 
over each plant if possible. 
Be on the lookout for aphis, beetles and disease. 
Spray for the former with kerosene emulsion. 
Early in the morning hand-pick for beetles, and 
for disease nothing is better than bordeaux mixture, 
the weaker solution for summer use; and sprinkle 
with flour of sulphur for mildew. Slug Shot is a 
good insecticide, and is generally efficient for 
flowers and vegetables. 
Keep the vegetables growing rapidly. Cabbage 
and lettuce should have nitrate of soda occasionally 
sowed between the rows; before a rain is the best 
time. Keep well cultivated. Never work around 
beans or peas when wet with dew or rain. It makes 
rust and the result is disastrous. 
Application with slug shot every two weeks for 
beetles and worms, and bordeaux mixture sprayed 
as often on potatoes and such other things which 
are subject to rot or blight of any kind is necessary. 
The insects and weeds keep one ever vigilant 
during the summer months, but there is also plant- 
ing to be done during July. 
At the end of the month the celery bed should be 
gotten ready and celery planted. Dig a long trench 
two feet deep and four feet wide. Pile the dirt on 
either side. Fill in with well rotted manure for six 
inches, and over this put garden soil of about four 
inches, incorporating in it a mixture of commercial 
fertilizers. A good formula is ten pounds of nitrate 
of soda, twenty-five pounds of fish scrap, twenty 
pounds of acid phosphate and ten pounds of muriate 
of potash. This amount is sufficient for a row one 
hundred and fifty feet long by four feet wide. 
Set the plants from the coldframe in the trench 
about six inches apart in rows that are six inches 
apart; then turn on the water and soak thoroughly. 
Water daily throughout the dry season, and fill in 
between the plants in October, banking the dirt 
around the plants as they grow. Giant Pascal and 
Winter Queen are good winter kinds, and the Golden 
Self-blanching will be ready by Thanksgiving Day. 
Set out the sweet potato plants now from the 
seed bed. Keep thoroughly worked and fertilized. 
Plant black-eyed peas, corn, lima beans, navy 
beans, cucumbers for pickles and late tomato plants. 
Onions as they ripen should be pulled and put 
in the shade to dry, and then placed on slatted 
shelves in a barn to cure. Potato onions planted 
in the fall mature first and should be used right 
away as they will not keep well. 
Plant the Irish potato crop for winter. The 
Green Mountain is a good keeper. As the seed 
potatoes for the late crop are kept in cold storage 
it is well to spread them out in a warm place for a few 
days to warm up and sprout before planting. Have 
a little sprinkling of sand over them. Plant only 
those that have sprouted, and gradually cover with 
the soil. Directions for fertilizing and planting 
were given in The Garden Magazine of Decem- 
ber, 1914. 
Sow cabbage, brussels sprouts, and cauliflower 
seed for the late crop. The secret in raising these 
crops in the South is to sow the seed late in the 
summer, or they will be eaten up by bugs and cater- 
pillars. Sow in rich ground in a shady and moist 
location, and after transplanting to the open ground, 
fertilize and push the plants to rapid growth. Do 
not set in open ground until September. 
A plot or two should each year be sowed in crim- 
son clover, to turn under for green manure, and 
thus conserve the fertility of the garden. Sow 
with wheat, oats, or rye now. 
Sow thinly in rows in the garden, endive or Wit- 
loof chicory. Later thin out and in the fall it 
should be taken up and trenched for blanching, or 
packed in boxes of sand and put away in the cellar. 
Grapes, plums, and peaches should have been 
sprayed almost to ripening time for black rot with 
bordeaux, and for curculio arsenate of lead so that 
this month they should be in perfection. 
Virginia. J. M. Patterson. 
A Serious Grape Pest 
T HE grape-leaf hopper is becoming a serious 
menace to the successful cultivation of grapes 
in western New York and western Pennsylvania. 
It is a very small sucking insect which lives and 
works on the underside of the leaves, and the dam- 
age which it does is usually accomplished before 
its presence is known. 
The eggs are laid in June by the adults which 
have wintered over on grass, weeds and fallen 
leaves. About the middle of June the first nymphs 
are hatched and the number increases as the sum- 
mer advances. These nymphs go through five 
stages or instars before they become adults. The 
adults begin to appear the latter part of July. 
As soon as hatched the nymphs commence feed- 
ing and in doing so puncture the skin of the leaf 
to suck the cell sap. Having satisfied their hunger 
the mouth parts are withdrawn from the leaf. 
At, next feeding time the plant juices are drawn 
from another place. The cell from which the sap 
is drawn dries out, as do the surrounding cells. 
One such injury does not amount to much, but 
when one considers that it is not uncommon to 
find as many as one hundred leaf-'hopper nymphs 
on one leaf, the combined injury soon destroys the 
leaf. It is not uncommon to find on a badly in- 
fested leaf as many as 20,000 such injured places. 
To the casual observer the first noticeable dam- 
age is a whitening of the leaf and in a short time 
it turns brown. This occurs in August when the 
vine needs the leaves to make wood growth and 
develop the fruit. When the attack is bad the 
wood growth is decreased, the fruit fails to ripen 
properly, and such as does ripen is of poor quality. 
The adults are yellowish in appearance with 
darker yellow lines, which turn to a dark red be- 
fore the insect leaves the vines in the fall; but 
upon resuming feeding on the vines, they again, 
in the spring, return to their normal color. 
One thorough spraying with a tobacco decoction 
containing two one hundredths of one per cent, 
of nicotine, if made at the time when the nymphs 
are most abundant (usually about the first or second 
week in July), will usually hold the pest in check. 
To obtain this strength, dilute “Black-leaf 40,” 
one part with sixteen hundred parts of water or 
if Black-leaf Extract is used dilute one part in one 
hundred and fifty parts of water. Kerosene emul- 
sion can also be used, diluting the stock solution 
with ten to twelve parts of water. The time to 
make this spray will vary some with the season 
and the locality, but it will be some time in July. 
It must be done before the adults commence to 
fly for then they are very hard to hit. To insure 
hitting all the insects use a nozzle of the cyclone 
type, having a large aperture, and direct the spray 
against the under side of the leaves, incidentally 
filling the air thereabouts with a fine mist of the 
spray so as to catch any adults which may try to 
fly away. Nozzles having a small aperture, like 
the velmorel, will not do the work even though 
the spray mixture used is much stronger than 
recommended. The foliage must be thoroughly 
drenched with the spray solution and a pump used 
which can deliver the spray under 1 25 to 150 pounds 
pressure to the square inch. Where the foliage is 
heavy, drive very slowly so that thorough work 
can be done. It wall take about 150 gallons of 
the spray to cover an acre of grapes having 
dense foliage. 
Cleanliness in the vineyard and vicinity is also 
an important item toward the control of the leaf 
hopper. There should be no weeds, grass or fallen 
leaves allowed to remain about the plants. -Burn 
over any grassy, weedy, places early in the spring. 
In the first warm days of spring the leaf hopper 
migrates for its winter habitat to the raspberry, 
blackberry, strawberry, burdock, catnip, Virginia 
creeper, currant, and gooseberry. They prefer 
these plants in about the order named, so that one 
should avoid, if possible, having these plants grow- 
ing in the vicinity of the grapes. From these plants 
they migrate to the lower leaves or suckers on the 
grape vines. They seem to prefer these lower leaves 
to the upper, probably because they are better 
protected from the winds. But whatever the 
reason, suckering the grapes should be delayed 
until about the time of spraying to make a thor- 
ough job of holding this pest in check. 
Pennsylvania Harold Clarke. 
