The Garden Magazine, March, 1920 
43 
look in rather bad shape. Then is the time to be guided by 
what Mr. Reginald Farrar writes: — “ Dianthus neglectus, like 
all other Alpines that make deep tufts, is very thankful for a top 
dressing of helpful soil as soon as the denuding winter and up- 
heaving frosts are over. Frost and rain work all these tufted 
plants rather bare and decollete; just as the growing season be- 
gins they very much appreciate a fine sifting of light rich soil 
fretted gently in among their growths.” 
The Dry Retaining Wall 
I F ONE has such a wall in prospect and intends it to become 
the home of Rock-plants it would be the part of wisdom to 
procure one of the many good books dealing with the subject, 
so that the construction and planting may be done in the best 
way from the start. But if such a wall already exists, laid loose 
or in mortar, it may be made to answer. 1 have rammed soil 
into mine with a little cement to hold it in place; and the plants 
confided to it find themselves very much at home. Now and 
then a fatality occurs where the soil was not rammed in firmly 
enough to discharge air pockets — and this should, of course, be 
carefully guarded against. Such a wall at Mr. William 
Robinson’s beautiful garden in Surrey, England, is charmingly 
overrun with the little Fumitory, Corydalis lutea. 
If the wall is high, quite large subjects may be introduced 
with fine effect among the rock plants — an occasional group of 
Foxgloves or red Valerian, Lavender-cotton, Nepeta Mussinii, 
Snapdragons, and now and then a great aspiring Mullein. The 
main consideration is that the plants should be arranged in 
irregular, natural looking groups, as if nature had done the sow- 
ing — not too many kinds to a stretch of wall and very seldom 
a single specimen. To form mounds of soft color or to hang in 
graceful festoons at the top of a retaining wall may be planted 
Santolina Chamaecyparissus, Nepeta Mussinii, Genista tinctoria 
fl. pi., red Valerian, Lathyrus latifolius, Gypsophila paniculata, 
Daphne cneorum, Pinks of the plumarius type, and Sun-roses. 
Paved Paths and Stone Steps 
W ALKS thatare paved with irregular stones, set with narrow 
joints between, are an attractive and comfortable ad- 
junct to gardens (if not too magnificent in type) and will serve 
as a very charming setting for this sort of gardening. Good soil 
to the depth of several inches should lie beneath the stones; and 
self-control is necessary in the planting, for the path, of course, 
is first of all designed to be walked upon and to do this one should 
not be obliged to tread on the diminutive tenantry. But the 
fragrant little Woolly Thyme (Thymus lanuginosus) is one plant 
that does not resent the pressure of feet, and nothing is pleas- 
anter for such a situation. Only small subjects should be used 
and these, save the Thyme, kept a little toward the sides. At 
the extreme edges such larger plants as Thrifts, Tunica, Aubrie- 
tias, Pinks, Erysimums, Silenes, dwarf Campanulas, Arabis, 
Alpine Poppies and Alpine Flax may be safely ventured. 
The joints of stone steps may be tightly rammed with soil and 
utilized successfully as homes for certain of the rock plants, 
too. Small ferns, Erinus, and the moss-like and star-spangled 
Balearic Sandwort (Arenaria balearica) are good for the cool 
exposures and there are any number of gay candidates for the 
sunny places. Sprightly Pinks burst from the corner crevices 
of mine; and silvery Cerastium; and Veronica prostrata, flowing 
like a blue stream, outlines the joints. 
A GROUP OF ROCK-PLANTS IN THE AUTHOR’S GARDEN 
At the extreme left are spikes of Nepeta Mussini, next is a Lupine (which not being a rock plant does not count of course), 
then comes the delicate Alyssum citrinum, beyond which a Viola cornuta papilio peers from beneath the first of three 
clumps of Iberis sempervirens, while Cerastium tomentosum brings up against the steps. Above is a colony of spring bulbs 
