WHEN PLANTING FRUIT FOR YOURSELF 
HENRY GIBSON 
Quality, Rather Than Mere Quantity to Govern the Selection— Commercial Grower’s Methods 
and Ideals Misleading and Wasteful of Space and Labor from the Home Point of View 
jyT’ J ANY varieties of fruit actually do better and produce 
jV/g more freely when grown under the more intensive and 
more or less shaded conditions of the suburban plot, 
JSL'lfils than they do in the open fields of the commercial 
grower. As a matter of fact the very varieties discarded as 
unprofitable by the market man are the ones for the home gar- 
den, for they more than make up in quality the deficiency in 
quantity that has made them commercially unprofitable. The 
cultivation for example of the English varieties of Gooseberry 
which, with rare exceptions have proved a failure here com- 
mercially owing to our hot dry summers which weaken the plants 
and make them very susceptible to mildew, meets with notable 
success under conditions that obtain in the average home 
garden. 
Several factors such as the nature of the soil, the extent of 
the area available for small fruits, the size of the family, and the 
demands of the household will determine the amount and the 
variety of fruits to plant. Gooseberries and Currants both do 
better in a northern exposure, or under the half shade of large 
trees, and Grapes will find a resting place over the roof of a porch 
or summer-house. On a plot 50 x 50 ft. in size at least two varie- 
ties each of Strawberries, Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, 
Blackberries, Dewberries, and Grapes as well as 4 Cherries and 
4 Plums are possible without eliminating the smaller vegetables. 
I N setting out a new plantation it will make for economy of 
labor in the subsequent care of the plants if they are set in 
rows, inasmuch as many of the smaller vegetables may be grown 
between the rows, and the cultivation these need will meet the 
requirements of the fruit. Gooseberries, Currants and Rasp- 
berries will do very nicely in rows 6 feet apart, with 4 feet 
between the plants. Blackberries and Dewberries require more 
space, both between the plants and between the rows; about 
5x7 feet should be the minimum with these. With Grapes the 
distance apart to plant varies with the varieties; the stronger 
and more vigorous growing demand more space than the less 
vigorous, naturally. When planted in rows trellises are in- 
dispensable to support the canes, and these should never be set 
nearer together than eight feet, fen feet apart in the row is not 
too far for vigorous vines, six to eight for the more moderate 
growing ones. Plums and Cherries may be set 1 2 feet apart, and if 
separate space for them is lacking they may be put in the rows 
with the Currants and Gooseberries, where they will shade 
those. 
The purchase of the right kind of stock is most important. 
In the case of Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries and such, 
“transplants” — that is plants that have been once transplanted 
in the nursery — are better than one season rooted tips, suckers, 
or root-cuttings because these will bear fruit sooner. There 
will be fewer losses too, which with the earlier bearing will more 
than offset the extra cost. They should be set out in the spring. 
Well grown one-year-old Grape vines may be used, though 
two-year-old ones are better. Whether they are set in the 
fall or spring does not make much difference, the convenience of 
the planter being the deciding factor. In the case of fall plant- 
ing it is not advisable to cut back the canes until spring, when 
they may be reduced to two or three buds. Strawberries may be 
pot-grown — which are offered for sale during the summer, and 
planted in August or early September — or freshly dug one season 
“ runners” which are set out in the spring. Currants and Goose- 
berries are best as two-vear-old rooted cuttings, these being 
much preferable to three-year-old plants unless they have been 
transplanted in the nursery. Both of the latter may be set out 
in the fall, as they are very hardy and seldom if ever suffer from 
the rigors of winter. 
With Cherries and Plums two-year-old trees have hitherto 
been the favorites' for planting, but many fruit growers to-day 
prefer one-year-old trees. There is one particular advantage in 
these — none but the most thrifty are salable at this age. More- 
over they cost less to buy and ship; and they may be headed 
back if low heads are desired — treatment which cannot be given 
to older trees with heads already formed. 
Varieties of the fruits named are legion, but those mentioned 
below are to my taste among the best of their types, and have 
some particular quality — as early, late, unusual flavor, etc., to 
recommend them — these respective attributes are duly set forth 
in the catalogues, which the reader should consult. 
Currants: — Black — Black Victoria; Boskoop. Red — -Perfection; 
Diploma; Victoria. IVhite — White Transparent; White Imperial. 
Dewberries: — Lucretia; Austin Improved. Blackberries; Joy; 
Kittakinny; Blowers. (This is an erect grower, very hardy, large 
berries of fine flavor and with a longer bearing season than any other 
variety 1 know of.) 
Cherries: — Sour — Early Richmond; Montmorency. Sweet — 
Wood; Black Tartarian; Bigarreau; Bing; Yellow Spanish; Napoleon. 
Gooseberries: — (English) IVhite — Keepsake; Whitesmith. Green 
—Delaware; Overall; Industry (is a dark Greenish-vellow); — Wetherall. 
Red; — Slaughterman; London Red. (American) Josselyn; Poorman; 
Downing; Chautauqua. 
Grapes: — Red — Delaware; Catawba. Green — Diamond; Niagara. 
Black — Barry; Herbert. 
Plums: — The European varieties of plums are so much better than 
those of American origin that we will not consider the latter for the 
home garden. Damson is perhaps the best known for its late astrin- 
gent blue fruit, impossible to eat raw though among the best for preserv- 
ing. It is adaptable to a diversity of soils and climates. 
Shropshire and French are both of the Damson type, but of some- 
what better quality. French is later than Shropshire, while the trees 
are larger and prolific annual croppers. 
Middleburg is a large late purple, of long season and useful for dessert 
and preserving. 
Reine Claude is a yellowish-green plum, which when well grown and 
the fruit thinned is the climax of excellence as a dessert fruit. Un- 
fortunately the trees are sometimes subject to sun-scald and are short 
lived. Washington is a large midseason, freestone fruit. Yellow Gage 
is large, a freestone; subacid. 
Raspberries: — Black — Gault; Cumberland; Black. Red — Cuth- 
bert; Herbert; Perfection; St. Regis. A giant everbearing Raspberre 
‘LaFrance’ is being put on the market this spring, and judging from 
reports it has a great future. Yellow — Golden Queen. 
Strawberries: — There is no “best.” It all depends on the cultiva- 
tion given and the locality where they are grown. Varieties a decided 
success in one locality may fail in another and vice-versa. My personal 
choice includes Marshall, William Belt, Crescent and Gandy. 
Of the everbearing varieties, don’t expect too much especially the 
second season, or you may be disappointed. Treat them some- 
what as annuals. Pick off all the blossoms from plants set out 
in spring until june; then let them bear until frosts stop them. 
Let them bear a full crop the following spring, and set out an- 
other plantation for fall fruiting. Throw away the plants that have 
fruited twice. Superb, Progressive, Americus, and Peerless compare 
well with any others. 
