JHE work of making 
b 'j 2 a garden or of plant- 
viim 5i > n & trees and shrubs 
w*lr (s^ and flowers is in 
the last analysis a piece of 
manual labor; and the man- 
ual skill which is necessary 
for itssuccessful accomplish- 
ment is a fundamental part of gardening which everyone having 
a garden should master whether it devolves upon himself to do 
the work or not. The first consideration is of course the earth 
wherein the planting is to be done — some understanding of its 
character and its requirements. 
The Soil is a mechanical support for plants, a reservoir of 
water for them, and their source of food. When it is very dense, 
as in clay formations, it offers greater resistance to penetration 
by roots than certain kinds of plants can overcome, as well as 
retains moisture to a greater degree than they like perhaps— 
hence these do not “ thrive” in a clay or heavy soil. When it is 
the opposite of this, as in sandy regions, roots may penetrate 
readily enough but water is not retained and a totally different 
condition obviously prevails. Up to a moderate degree the 
natural character of soil may be modified, especially with humus; 
but it cannot be actually changed. 
Fertilizers are not always necessary but should be applied 
when you know definitely why and what for. Land that is 
newly worked may be rich in everything that such plants as 
trees and shrubs will require; and consequently better off with- 
out additional plant food that may only overbalance the 
rations, whereas for quick growing, or casual crops — vegetables 
and flowers — they may be well used. But applications of lime 
are always in order (unless plants that require an acid soil are 
being used) since lime not only corrects acidity but also acts 
mechanically on the soil, improving its texture; and further re- 
leases plant food which may not be in form for plant use 
although abundant in the soil. Therefore, unless you are 
planting Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Laurel, Ericas, Huckle- 
berries, Cranberries, or any of this (the Heath) family, use lime 
as directed in the article on page 280 of the Lebruary Garden 
Magazine. Lurther, if you are making a lawn, be governed 
by this rule: lime is absolutely essential to success with Blue 
Grass, while Redtop thrives in its absence. 
Manure may generally be applied at the rate of a two- 
horse load to 50 by 50 feet of space, this being the equivalent of 
about sixteen tons to the acre. Spread it evenly as the first 
operation in land preparation; proceed to turn the earth over 
by plowing or spading, and then spread the lime. Linish by 
harrowing or raking to break up all lumps and “fine” the soil. 
This amount of manure is the minimum for lawns and 
general purposes, and additional applications should be 
made according to the special plants or crops for which you 
are preparing. A two-bushel wheelbarrow load to four ^ 
square yards (6x6 feet) covering the soil to a depth of 4 
inches is a good annual standard for the vegetable garden 
and for perennial borders. Pulverized sheep 
manure is a good alternative to stable manure, 
and can be had at the seed stores. 
Seedlings or small plants that are trans- 
planted need earth that is fine and soft and 
mellow in texture to receive them — humus 
in the" soil assures this. If their roots are left 
encased in a ball of earth such as adheres 
when they are carefully transferred from 
thumb-pots or paper pots, the work is of course 
THE JOB OF PLANTING 
SECTION TO SHOW DYNAMITE ACTION 
AND PROPER REFILL WHEN PLANTING 
very simple, and the texture 
of the receiving soil not so 
important since this does 
not come in direct contact 
with the plants’ tender root- 
lets. But if the earth is lost 
from the roots and these are 
exposed, pay great atten- 
tion to the niceties of getting them into their new quarters 
in the right way. This means that every rootlet is insured 
full contact with the fine soil about it, and that no treacherous 
earth pockets are underneath the plant— that it is not “hung” 
as gardeners express it. Set the dibble with which you are 
making the holes to receive the plants — or the spade or trowel, 
if you are using one of these instead — into the earth at the 
proper spot and a little deeper than the roots will reach, press 
the handle to one side thus making an inverted wedge-shaped or 
cone-shaped opening, lower the plant roots into this to the 
proper depth, and then by setting the dibble into the earth 
alongside the opening and pressing its handle toward the plant, 
close the earth against the roots. This is always a better 
method with tender and succulent plants than digging a hole 
and sifting earth in from the top; for the latter is almost sure 
to tear some of the roots. Leave a depression about the plant 
into which pour a pint or thereabouts of water, let this settle 
and then level the earth in. 
Planting a tree or a shrub is the same kind of an opera- 
tion magnified to such a degree that the earth must of course 
be put in on top of the roots. And in order to insure its being 
brought into complete contact with all of them it must be 
tamped down around them and against them. Use for this 
purpose a round-headed stick such as an inverted rake handle, 
and as the fine soil is sifted over the roots, work it in and 
against them thoroughly, at the same time settling the plant 
itself by shaking it very gently up and down as long as this can 
be done. Water it in after the roots are covered but before the 
depression is entirely filled, let the water settle and then level 
as with seedlings. Remember it is the roots with which you are 
most concerned in planting anything; once these are properly in 
the ground it is pretty certain that the top will take care of it- 
self, although it should of course be reduced by cutting back 
about one third in order to balance the loss of roots which is 
inevitable. 
When to plant depends upon what you are planting. 
Spring is regarded as always all right for everything and so it 
may be if you do not mind losing a season’s bloom. But if you 
wish to conserve this, remember that spring blooming perennials 
should be removed after blooming, or early in the fall. All 
thin barked trees, trees with soft and punky roots, late bloom- 
ing trees, trees with a naturally meager root system, trees 
bearing stone fruits, and broad-leaved evergreen shrubs should 
certainly be planted in spring. Evergreens may be planted in 
: spring and a"gain in August and September, Roses in spring, 
and hardy perennials and practically everything else in either 
spring or fall. But there is planting going on somewhere all 
the year round (see chart on next page).- 
The size of the hole is important. Always 
make it ample, let it be large enough to re- 
ceive all the roots spreading naturally, and a 
little bit more. Also make it deep enough to 
put a layer of topsoil on the bottom before 
planting. Then bank the soil around the roots. 
Use good sensible tools — a spade for digging, 
though on mellow soil a digging fork will 
serve, and a shovel for shoveling. 
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