128 
The Garden Magazine, April, 1920 
smaller number. I am inclined to think that either the Ailanthus or 
the Catalpa would serve us better than the Horsechestnut, at least 
till the worm is driven out. Some of our trees grow in a remarkable 
way. A Soft Maple in a few feet from my window, standing between 
the sidewalk and the asphalt pavement, is perfectly vigorous.— John 
W. Chamberlin, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Quality 
in 
Com 
been activ 
M R. KRUHM’S article in the January 
Garden Magazine very much interests 
me, as it also must interest all who read it. 
I am one of the pioneers of the seed trade; have 
ely engaged for Co years and have a modest garden on Cape 
Cod where I annually experiment with various sorts of fruit and 
vegetables. 1 tried several sorts of the larger type of golden Corn last 
season and I quite agree that none of them had table quality equal to 
Golden Bantam. I very much wish to try Golden Evergreen after 
reading what has been said. For several years past 1 have made a 
careful study of Tomatoes, and found Bonny Best to be the most 
desirable. Our soil on the Cape is rather light, but this Tomato 
flourishes there. As is said, it is also my experience that it is less acid, 
than other good varieties and 1 am safe in eating all I want of it which 1 
could not comfortably do with some other sorts. I also discarded Old 
Homestead Bean for the lack of quality mentioned in this note referred 
to, and will try Egg Harbor Pole. — John Fottler. 
tfKb fAlonffvs Q QmindQr 
“ Come with me, then, behind the scenes, where we are concerned only with the joys of plant increase and rejuvenation” 
The Reminder is to “suggest" what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of 
how to do each item are given in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it 
is manifestly impossible to give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. 
References to back numbers may be looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent 
gratis on request), and the Service Department will also be glad to cite references to any spe- 
cial topic if asked by mail. 
When referring to the time for' out-door work of any sort New York City at sea level in a nor- 
mal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the sea- 
son advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty 
miles from New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles 
southwest, about a week earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for 
each five degrees of longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 
APRIL— THE MONTH OF RAPID-FIRE ACTION 
EVER let vigilance relax with regard to a sudden cold snap, 
for frost is likely to occur after even a warm and balmy day, 
l lJ| right up to the end of the month. If you have delayed order- 
l"| | | ing seeds as late as this do not accept whatevera corner grocery 
stock may offer as substitute. Cheap seeds or seeds from any 
source other than a standard seed house are the most expensive 
things in the world (although they may represent but a small 
outlay in money) for they mean a year’s production lost, all of 
the time put into gardening thrown away, all of the energy em- 
ployed wasted, and like as not your gardening morale completely 
routed. Avoid them like a plague! 
General 
Pull or cut weeds out of the lawn whenever you see them, in passing. 
Fill the holes thus made with soil, sift on grass seed, and tramp 
it down. 
Mow the lawn as soon as its growth will be reached by the blades of 
the machine, and mow frequently but never cut extremely close. 
This will induce strong root growth of the grass and that density 
which alone makes a perfect surface. 
Finish manuring and spading up borders in readiness for Pansies and 
material of this sort which may be going in. 
Greenhouse and Frames 
Even thing requires more water and ventilation and all material that 
is to go out of the greenhouse, whether out of doors or into the 
dwelling, must gradually be hardened for the change. 
Shift well rooted plants into larger pots as fast as they need it, and repot 
Hydrangeas and such material if conditions demand, this month. 
Plant Carnations in the field the end of the month, for carrying over 
until next fall. 
Plant out all clumps of perennials that have been forced, giving them 
an obscure place where they may pick up for two seasons at least. 
Plant out spent bulbs where these may also have time to recuperate. 
Pot all seedlings as fast as they are ready and keep growing without a 
setback. 
Prune weak wood out of fruits and start late trees into growth now. 
Melons, Cucumbers and Tomatoes for under-glass summer crops 
should be started now. Use any preferred Tomato, but choose 
English forcing Melons and Cucumbers. 
Flower Garden 
Start tender annuals in coldframes. 
Sow Sweet Peas at the earliest possible moment, as they cannot stand 
hot weather. Set out those that were started indoors. 
Set out Dahlias as soon as the ground is drained out. 
Uncover Roses and look carefully for scale. Prune them, leaving three 
eyes of last years’ wood on Hybrids but taking out only weak 
wood and reducing the rest one-third on the Teas. 
Do all planting this month. Shift perennials that you are to transplant 
as early as possible. 
Look over all shrubs and trees and make sure there is no scale, or spray 
for it if there is. Often a single branch will be covered when the 
rest of the shrub has as yet escaped. 
Prune shrubs that flower on this season’s growth, now; prune all other 
and early flowering shrubs after they have bloomed. 
Remove protective material from Rhododendrons, etc., on a dark 
day. 
Fill gaps in hedges now, if winter has killed plants or branches here 
and there. 
Trees newly planted that sway badly in the wind should be staked until 
they take hold, and also until they develop enough trunk to resist 
for themselves. 
Rake up among perennials as soon as the foliage can be distinguished. 
Water all newly set out material often if the ground seems dry and 
there is much wind, for the latter robs the soil rapidly. 
Vegetable Garden 
Asparagus, Rhubarb and Spinach (fall-sown) should be uncovered and 
the top-soil of the beds stirred. 
According to the character of the season and the development of the 
leaves on native material, plant the seeds, beginning with the 
hardiest vegetables and progressing as the season progresses. 
First plantings will be Radishes, Beets, Parsnips, Onions, Spinach, 
Peas, Lettuce, Cabbage, Salsify, Carrots, Turnips, and Kohlrabi. 
Fruits 
Finish all grafting within a week after the buds of the fruit trees swell. 
Plant strawberries at once for starting new beds. Rake mulch from 
established beds or open it above the rows of plants to let them 
come through. 
Examine Peaches to six inches below the surface of the soil for borers. 
Gum or sawdust reveal them. Clean these away, open the holes 
with a sharp knife enough to admit a flexible wire and run this in 
as far as it will go to kill the grubs. Examine again in about a 
week for later developed attacks. 
Watch Currants and Gooseberries as the new leaves unfold, especially 
near the ground, for the worms, and spray at once they appear, 
wetting the under side of the leaves. 
Watch for tiny steel-blue beetles on Crapes as their leaves open. Pick 
them off or knock into a pan of kerosene. 
