The Garden Magazine, May, 1920 
169 
The best growers indeed now offer something like eighty var- 
ieties, and this exclusive of those discarded from the trade as 
better ones have come on or those lost to cultivation. Yet it is 
but a few years since the only flowering aquatic plants were such 
as grew wild in the ponds and marshes and along the margins of 
streams! 
T WO types of Water-lilies, or Nymphaeas are to be consid- 
ered — the “hardy” and “tender.” Hardy Lilies have been 
derived from those indigenous to the temperate zone and will 
stand the severest of winters, provided the roots or racemes are 
not actually frozen. In natural ponds nature affords pro- 
tection from freezing by a sufficient depth of water and a stratum 
of soil that does not freeze, but in artificial pools covering must 
be provided. The tender Lilies can be wintered over with the 
proper facilities, but the plan of purchasing young grow- 
ing plants at the proper planting season, as with bed- 
ding plants, is usually more satisfactory and much more 
reliable. 
Nelumbos — or Lotuses, as they are commonly known — 
are very strong growers, and most striking in their appearance. 
The leaves are borne on stout stems, 3 to 5 feet above the 
surface of the water, and the flowers are large and usually raised 
considerably higher. They are usually in a solid color, pink, 
red, yellow, or white, although there is one striped form. Several 
double forms are also to be obtained. The plants are heavy 
feeders and must be supplied with plenty of soil, and as their 
roots spread rapidly, provision must be made to confine them 
within a given area. They are impatient of removal and must 
be transplanted only at a certain season, the tubers being dug 
just as they begin to grow in the spring, which is usually about 
the first of May. These tubers resemble somewhat a banana 
in shape and are planted horizontally in the soil about 2 inches 
below the surface. 
T HE Victoria regia, or Royal Water-lily, is noted chiefly for 
the marvelous size of its leaves. 1 have seen a single plant 
with seven perfect leaves each not less than six feet across. 
The flowers are white, and of a very heavy fragrance, not unlike 
that of a ripe pineapple; they open for the first time early in the 
evening. It is obvious that to bring to perfection this giant 
Water-lily one needs a large pool: for at least 300 square feet of 
surface will be required and 3 cubic yards of soil, while the depth 
of water over the crown of the plant should be 1 5 to 18 inches. 
But miniature specimens may be grown in half-barrels of soil 
sufik 10 to 12 inches under the surface of the water and plants 
under such conditions will produce leaves 3 feet across and quite 
a number of flowers. They should not be planted out, unless 
one has a heated tank, until warm settled weather is assured — 
which is usually the first or second week of June in the latitude 
of New York City. 
The three essential things in the growing of Water-lilies and 
aquatic- plants generally are sun, water, and good soil. All 
aquatics demand full exposure to the sun for their proper de- 
velopment. The depth of water may vary however from 6 
inches to 3 or 4 feet. A natural pond, or one that can be made 
by damming a stream, furnishes the ideal spot, but where this 
does not exist it is of course quite possible to build a suitable 
artificial pool. The hardy Lilies are best adapted to planting 
in natural ponds where the roots may be planted directly 
in the soil at the bottom, in sufficient depth of water to 
provide protection during the winter. Where there is un- 
limited room the planting of separate varieties in groups is most 
desirable. Six or more of one kind soon make a very attractive 
display, and if the individual groups are twenty-five or thirty 
feet apart the effect is very pleasing. The best method of plant- 
ing in artificial pools is in boxes not less than 2 feet square and 1 
foot deep. One plant is all that such a box will hold. A box 
3 feet square however will contain sufficient soil to grow two 
plants. 
G ENERALLY speaking aquatic plants are voracious feeders 
and like to spread their roots in the richest soil. This 
can be prepared by mixing three parts of rotted sod, compost, or 
top-soil with one part of cow manure and adding a slight sprink- 
ling of bone meal. This must be thoroughly mixed and de- 
composed however before it is put into the water, or trouble 
from fermentation will result. If well rotted manure cannot be 
obtained substitute one quart of bone meal to one bushel of soil. 
After the boxes are filled with this they should be covered with a 
generous layer of sand, which prevents small particles rising 
from the soil and keeps the water clean. Place them in the pool 
and run the water in to a depth of six inches above their tops. 
All this should be done several days before the plants are ex- 
pected. 
The actual planting is very simple. The roots need only 
to be pressed into the soft earth and left alone. If they show a 
tendency to float to the surface a flat stone or brick will hold 
them down until they develop roots. Where it is possible to 
regulate the amount of water it is well to plant in a depth of 6 
inches, gradually increasing this as the plants become estab- 
lished. In planting in natural ponds where the water is deep it 
is well to plant in light boxes of soil, or even in chip baskets. 
Place these in shallow water until a good growth is made, then 
move into the deeper water. Only strong growing Water- 
lilies should be selected for growing in deep water. Tender 
Lilies and Nelumbos should never be planted in more than one 
foot of water. 
