180 
The Garden Magazine, May, 1920 
frozen. This period begins with the dropping of the fo- 
liage in the autumn and ends when the buds burst in the 
spring. 
Evergreens are usually planted in late spring and during the 
latter part of August and the first part of September. If large 
balls of earth are secured intact around the roots, evergreens 
may be planted successfully at times earlier and later than the 
above seasons. The day to select, where this is possible, is a 
cool, cloudy one. On other days greater care must be devoted 
to the details of planting to prevent the drying out of the roots 
through the necessary handling of the plants. 
The excavation for the individual trees should be large enough 
in width, length, and depth to receive the roots of the tree ex- 
tended in their natural positions. But the depth of the hole 
excavated must be more actually than enough to receive the 
roots, for there should be space for a layer of six inches of good 
loam before the roots are placed in the hole. Then the hole is 
gradually filled with the “top soil” which is carefully worked 
among the fine roots so that no air spaces shall be left anywhere, 
When the hole is filled the earth should be three inches higher 
on its bole than it was in its nursery or woodland situation, to 
allow for settling. And never be afraid of getting the soil too 
firm. It should be packed with a round-pointed stick so that 
the tree cannot be shaken from its position. Finally, just before 
the last four inches of soil is filled in, it may well be soaked down 
with a generous application of water. 
T HE spacing of trees is something that cannot be governed 
by fixed rules. Street trees may be placed from thirty to 
eighty feet apart, depending upon the variety used. Catalpas 
and Lombardy Poplars (which are not very commendable for 
street use) may be planted at the minimum distance while Syca- 
more and Elm would require the maximum. For lawn planting 
in groups, trees may be placed as near each other as ten feet, while 
for windbreaks the individuals are set from four to six feet apart. 
And for all purposes other than along streets it is better to plant 
rather close with the idea of cutting out the superfluous ones 
when this becomes necessary. 
Regardless of how thoughtfully they have been selected and 
how thoroughly the planting has been done, there remains intel- 
ligent care to be bestowed upon trees to have them live and 
thrive. Many planters have been disappointed with the re- 
sults of their work because they considered their job completed 
when the last shovelful of soil was placed around the tree. Ac- 
tually this is the beginning of a two to three year job, instead. 
Young trees in situations exposed to strong winds — and always 
along streets — should be staked with a strong pole reaching up 
to their first branches when it is driven into the soil to a depth 
of two feet. In addition to the stake, street trees need some 
sort of a guard. There are many types on the market and ex- 
amples of good ones may be found in any progressive commun- 
ity. Trees that are planted in groups, however, or where they 
receive natural protection, will need neither the guard nor the 
stake to maintain them in an upright position. 
In the Middle West, or other districts where there are hot 
winds during earlysummer, the surface of smooth-bark trees such 
as the Linden. Birch, or Beech will need protection of their trunks 
for a year, possibly two. This protection may be afforded by 
plastering with a thin coating of mud;. winding burlap or other 
cloth about them; or enclosing with tar paper. 
In any section of the country the soil around the base of newly 
planted trees should have some cultivation the first year or two 
especially during the drought season. If trees are planted in 
large groups ordinary garden cultivation may be given, while 
trees planted as specimens or scattered, as along a street, should 
have the soil worked, over a wide circle around them, to a depth 
of three or four inches. The ground may of course be mulched 
with leaves, straw, or litter to conserve moisture, but the layer 
of dust formed by frequent stirring and pulverizing is infinitely 
to be preferred and will obviate watering in most cases so 
that only under rare conditions will it be necessary to water 
or irrigate. (Of course this does not apply to the districts 
where all cultivated trees must be artifically watered by irri- 
gation). 
A S TREES grow they will need pruning. This requirement 
L can be met by going over the trees during the summer when 
the amount of top to be removed can be more easily determined 
than in the winter months. The winter is a favorable time for 
pruning, however, and is devoted to this work by many city 
foresters and arborists. 1 he matter of pruning is one which 
should be attended to annually. The amount of pruning is one 
of individual judgment but should be based on the shape of the 
tree it is desired to produce. 
I here is a host of dangers to which trees are subjected in their 
struggle for existence, but these are not so menacing that any 
one need be deterred from planting trees because of them! 
Neither are the resulting injuries so intricate and incurable that 
damaged trees should be left to their fate. Most injuries result 
from insect attack and tree diseases, though there are other 
sources such as electricity, gas, and improper trimming of the 
tops to make room for overhead wires. 
According to the habits of tree insect enemies, there are two 
common methods employed in combating them. Insects which 
feed on the leaves of trees, such as caterpillars, are successfully 
overcome by the application to the foliage of a solution of arsen- 
ate of lead during the period when the insects are feeding. This 
is in general the best method of holding in control this class of 
insects, although special means sometimes have to be employed 
for unusual cases. The other general class of insects, such as 
plant lice and scales, which do not devour the foliage but suck the 
juices of the tree, have to be handled by a different method. 
The treatment for this class is the use of some contact poison 
which kills the insects it touches. Solutions of soap and 
kerosene and lime-sulphur compounds are employed for this 
purpose. 
The most common diseases of shade trees are known as fungi. 
They live upon the tissue of other plants, living or dead. Some 
fungi are microscopic in size, while others are larger, thread-like 
structures, with large fruiting bodies such as the commonly 
known mushrooms or toadstools. The majority of fungous 
diseases are of little importance to shade tree growers, though 
a few are highly destructive. In the East the most destructive 
tree disease that can be mentioned is the Chestnut blight. The 
White Pine blister rust is another well known, though more re- 
cent, forest tree disease. 
T H E lime-sulphur wash may be used as a fungicide in addition 
to its value for combating scales, but the control of fungous 
diseases should be by preventive measures. This means cover- 
ing all freshly made wounds on trees with a heavy lead paint, 
and keeping them in a generally thrifty and healthy condition 
by proper care. This includes spraying when necessary of 
course. And the three points in spraying are: (i) certainty 
that the spray material is properly made; (2) thorough applica- 
tion; (3) application at the proper time. 
Finally:— Tree planting is not a thing of this year or of the 
next, but of every year. Let us awake to the possibilities and 
the necessities of tree planting, and go on planting them annually 
as memorials, for shade, for scenic value, to beautify streets or 
lawns, for parks, for communal woodlands, and for forests to 
yield timber under proper methods. Quite apart from utility 
the beauty of forests maintained under a proper system is 
one of the greatest and finest assets of a land. 
And plant with an appropriate ceremony. The character of 
this will depend upon the character of the planting of course. 
For single tree Arbor Day and small group Memorial plantings 
carefully prepared programmes are available and will be sent 
upon request to the editors of this magazine. And if roadside 
planting is done by a community or an organization, a public 
meeting to inaugurate the work should be locally arranged, 
with a programme of music and appropriate addresses. 
