REMAKE THE PERENNIAL BORDER NOW 
GRACE TABOR 
At this Season the Plants Reveal All Errors in Arrangement As Well As Indi- 
vidual Peculiarities Which Detract from the Effectiveness of Their Ensemble 
THE CURVING PATH 
IS AN INVITATION 
With its persistent elu- 
siveness it expresses 
more adequately than 
any other simple fea- 
ture the mystery and 
the “ come-hither ” with 
which the clever de- 
signer aims to permeate 
his garden creation, and 
affords at the same time 
opportunity for the 
greatest diversity and 
interest in its perennial 
borders 
TWS^ITHOUT a doubt there is no gardener who has not 
iwluA s h*f te d material at all sorts of odd seasons and had it 
live and thrive notwithstanding. We do not com- 
monly confess it; but at one time or another we go 
against all the books — and nothing happens. So we all know 
that all seasons are planting seasons to the good operator, 
within his own garden at all events. Hence we know, or ought 
to reason, that the ideal time to arrange plants in a border is 
when we can group the plants themselves and see the effect 
instead of grouping their roots only and guessing at it. More- 
over, this work done early enough gives them full opportunity 
to make roots and lay active hold upon the ground before cold 
weather; therefore it obviates the danger of winter loss by freez- 
ing out or heaving. And it also insures activity in the spring 
at the earliest possible moment. So the border planted now, 
or rearranged, will have taken on all the grace and finish of 
maturity by next midsummer if not earlier, instead of being, 
through half the summer at least, only a promise — and as 
often as not a dubious looking promise to all but the opti- 
mistic eyes of its sponsor. 
While Poppies, Peonies, and Dictamnus require to be left 
alone from generation to generation, practically everything 
else in the perennial world needs taking up, dividing, and re- 
planting every few years; or if the plants are not taken alto- 
gether out of the ground, the roots should be uncovered on one 
side, a portion cut off — half or a third or two-thirds, as the case 
may be — and the earth restored after the reduction is made. 
The clump thus subtracted may furnish one, two or three new 
specimens, if desired — in the same garden or another, if someone 
else wants them and you do not. 
It is highly desirable of course that all plants have sufficient 
root room to insure their best growth; but no border should, on 
this account, be sparsely planted. Better crowd some things 
a good deal even rather than have openings. Roots do not 
spread quite as widely as tops usually; so where tops simply 
mass in well together the roots are not likely to be crowded, as 
far as their neighbors are concerned. They are much more 
likely to crowd themselves — which is the reason for dividing 
occasionally. 
As to the task of “unplanting” and replanting, the earth-ball 
is the secret of greatest success with perennials just as it is the 
whole reason for success in handling evergreens. Perennials 
can be moved without it, of course; but they cannot be moved 
without serious setback during any part of their growing period 
unless their roots are undisturbed as far as possible — and of 
course only by digging them with the lump of earth in which 
they grow is this accomplished. It means heavier work in 
handling them, but this is a detail that need not modify action 
to any appreciable extent. 
Choose the day after a rain, when the earth will not shake 
loose easily from the roots, or else water the plants copiously 
the evening before the work is to be done. A damp soil is 
really essential. Starting at the plant’s circumference set 
spade down its full depth straight into the earth all the way 
around; then gradually work it under the root mass, which will 
gradually loosen if you work the implement back and forth 
patiently. Patience indeed goes a long way in this sort of thing 
— and in inducing plants to grow generally. Grasp the entire 
top of the plant near the ground and lift gently but firmly and 
continuously as the spade works its way underneath; and when 
the mass at last yields, tilt it over upon the spade and either 
carry it thus to its new place or deposit it on a barrow to be 
moved there. Replace it in a hole dug a little larger than the 
earth-ball, in the bottom of which the earth has been made 
soft and fme>. Sift earth in at the circumference and tamp it 
down firmly, pour on water when it is practically filled every- 
where and when this has settled out of sight, fill in to a level with 
the surface of the ground — and go after the next plant. If root 
clumps are to be divided, simply cut the mass of earth and roots 
with a sharp spade or an axe into as many parts as you desire or 
can make; and plant in just the same way, it being the assump- 
tion that each subdivision is a complete plant. 
