106 
The Carden Magazine, October, 1920 
places, a journey that will last two years and take him into 
every country of the Eastern Hemisphere that he has not already 
visited. His travels will cover India, Australasia, and possibly 
South Africa, and it is hoped that letters of observation in 
these countries will from time to time appear in our pages. 
Of present-day gardening in England he will first tell us, 
however, since he has found there much to interest him that 
he knew would interest Garden Magazine people generally. 
G ARDENING in California is a very different thing from 
gardening east of the Rockies; and there has been grow- 
ing up, almost unobserved, a rich style of garden development 
that is making really beautiful gardens which may be ad- 
equately dealt with as gardens rather than as purely horticult- 
ural curiosities. So in the December issue we hope to give 
particular attention to this new phase, for it is the California 
coastal gardens that are offering us here in America to-day a 
beauty equal to, and of practically the same character as, the 
distinctive and heretofore unparalleled loveliness of the old 
gardens of Italy, partly due to the configuration of the land 
and its relation to the waters of the Pacific, from which it 
rises much as the Italian heights, where so many of Italy’s 
loveliest gardens lie, rise from the Mare Tirreno; and partly 
due to similarities of climate and consequent congenial hor- 
ticultural conditions that are different from those of the East. 
Rashness characterizes the man who, in this great broad land 
of ours, attempts to pronounce definitely and finally upon any- 
thing, or any one, of its manifold and complex enterprises or 
developments. But at the risk of being rash we are con- 
strained to say that California is becoming something definite, 
different and distinctive in American gardening. 
THE OPET(^C olum: K, 
Readers’ / nterchange oj Experience and Comment 
Kept- 
Over Tulip 
Bulbs 
1 WANT to relate a little experience with 
Tulips which I think is out of the or- 
dinary. The bulbs had been taken up at the 
regular time, and 1 went to California for the 
fall and left my gardening in the hands of a handy man with instructions 
about planting out the Tulips in October. They had been stored 
away in two separate boxes and the man found only one of them with 
the result that the other package was not planted. By some mischance 
the package had been covered up by some rubbish which was not dis- 
covered until late summer the next year, and naturally I supposed they 
were of no account, and was prompted at first to throw them away, 
but being fond of trying experiments concluded to keep them until 
the proper season and plant them as usual, which I did. They 
were kept over in the dry and planted the next October. They 
bloomed just the same as the others— 1 could not distinguish them in 
any way. Can any one match this, or is it a common experience? — 
A. W. Foreman, Illinois. 
Making Trees 
Grow in 
Sandy Soil 
T 
multitudes of 
trees die each 
year. In the first place it is a mistake to 
take trees which have grown accustomed 
to lots of moisture and put them in 
ground which furnishes them the other 
extreme conditions. If trees are to be 
moved from lowlands to a higher light 
soil, such as is often done in the rural dis- 
tricts for shade about the home, they 
should, if possible, be taken from ground 
which is as near like that in which they 
are to be transplanted as possible. And 
even then, if the soil be of a particularly 
sandy or porous nature, they will not 
thrive save with much extra care. In 
one instance some sixty two-year-old 
RANSPLANTED from rich bottom 
lands to light porous or sandy soil 
trees were transplanted in a western state from a creek bottom to 
a vacant lot near a farm house, the idea of the owner being to 
furnish shade and a windbreak for the cold winter months. The 
result was that in two years but seven remained. These were in 
a slight hollow, showing that the important thing lacking in their 
new quarters was moisture. But though the rest were frequently 
watered in dry weather, they died. The method shown in the ac- 
companying sketch will save many trees. It calls for a little extra 
work at the outset, but will give each tree thus provided, a fair 
fighting chance. The hole in the sand is lined with several inches of 
clay cupped with the outer edge extending to within a few inches of the 
top of the ground. On top of this, and completely enveloping the roots, 
soil is packed as nearly as possible resembling that from which the tree 
has been taken. This may be slightly depressed about the base of the 
tree so that when water is poured about the tree, it will not spread and 
soak into the sand. The clay will not interfere with the growing and 
spreading of the tree roots, after the plant has recovered from the un- 
avoidable setback of replanting. In the drawing “A” represents the 
clay lining, “B” the rich soil about the roots, and "C” the sandy soil 
in which the tree is planted. — Dale R. Van Horn, Nebraska. 
IT IS often remarked that the Double Poet’s 
A Narcissus or Gardenia Daffodil is a shy and 
uncertain bloomer. I send a photograph of 
mine taken June i, 1919, to prove the con- 
trary. They are planted along the fence that encloses my field of 
Currants. Elm trees bordering the road afford shade in the afternoon. 
The soil is a rich loam underlaid with limestone. The bulbs are set 
with their necks at the surface of the ground. I keep them fairly free 
from weeds by an occasional hoeing, but that is all the attention they 
receive. They require no winter protection even here in northern Iowa. 
My bulbs are an inheritance. The stock has been multiplying in our 
family for sixty years. Once in six or seven years, I divide and reset 
them. They almost always bud profusely, but sometimes part of the 
buds blight. 1 have not been able to account for the blighting, but 
feel that a partial disappointment occasionally is offset a thousand fold 
by the abundant bloom of other years. The bulbs are rapid multi- 
pliers, absolutely hardy, and free from disease. The flowers are ex- 
quisitely beautiful and delightfully fragrant. They are ideal for cut- 
ting. This bulb should be a general favorite. — Ethel Walker, 
Charles City, la. 
Narcissus 
Odorata 
Alba Plena 
Practicable 
Late Yellow 
Perennial 
1 HAVE yet to find a practicable late yellow 
perennial. The obvious first choice, Co- 
reopsis, is impossible! The blooms go to seed 
faster than you can cut them, and, do what you 
will, they seed themselves everywhere. Anthemte Kelwayi is a vast 
improvement on Coreopsis, especially in its first feathery growth; 
but by midsummer it has flattened itself out on the ground! Left to 
itself it will redothe its naked stalks to be sure, but the interval is 
unsightly. The Evening Primrose (Oenothera Youngii) is effective for 
a fortnight, though frail — but is later consumed by worms with invar- 
iable regularity. The Helianthus are well enough in their season 
despite their rampant spreading — but are too late. Heliopsis doesn’t 
sucker out, but in some gardens it seeds itself, though I have never had 
a self-sown seedling in mine. The common species, Heliopsis Pitcher- 
iana grows about six feet tall. There is, however, a H. scabra zinnea- 
flora, a double form that does not exceed three feet, on which the 
flowers remain till they turn black. They are rather coarse but some- 
thing might be done to develop an improved variety, and I am inclined 
to think that this will be the plant that will eventually fill the require- 
ments for a good summer yellow perennial. — Julian Hinckley, Long 
Island. 
T , C INCE writing on the new pruning theory 
oma oes O of Prof. Chandler (See page 27) I have 
p, . noted a condition in my garden that leads me 
“ to wonder whether it is an example of the 
application of Professor Chandler’s principles. In my vegetable 
garden are about thirty Tomato plants set two and a half feet apart 
in two rows about three feet asunder. They were all set out the same 
day, and the soil, fertilizer used, subsequent treatment etc., have been 
identical with the following exception: the plants in one row I began 
to prune to a single stem and tie to a stake when they were about ten 
inches high. In the second row 1 left every alternate plant unpruned, 
intending to build a rough trellis around it and let it develop and sprawl 
as it would. None of the plants has been sprayed or dusted and all are. 
