144 
The Carden Magazine, November, 1920 
to regulate a too hot air in the day time, especially as house 
plants — like humans — need fresh air and plenty of it. See 
that they get it! 
A moist air is an essential for healthy plants. Too dry an 
air, besides being a disadvantage in other respects, is the direct 
inducement and exciting cause of many pests — particularly 
the red spider. A daily spraying with a rubber bulb hand 
sprayer works wonderfully, and we always use such a sprayer 
freely; as it almost atomizes the water it does not harm windows, 
shelf, or floor. It is an excellent idea to evaporate water freely 
on the radiators and it benefits the lungs of the family as well 
as those of the plants, 
I T IS always a question whether to turn plants or not. If not, 
buds, leaves, and blossoms naturally grow towards the sun 
and the result is a misshapen plant, showing the best bloom and 
foliage to the outside. They can be turned most ornamentally 
for “occasions” and some window gardeners prefer this method. 
If you do turn them, however, do it every day or two, and don’t 
wait until the leaves, bent irrevocably toward the sun, get an 
uglv twist, whenever the plant presents its company side in- 
ward. 
In arranging a shelf of plants, do not crowd them. Perfect, 
beautiful specimens are only obtained when there is plenty of 
room and air in which to expand and grow regularly and sym- 
metrically. As the plants get larger occasionally withdraw one 
to another situation. 
Shelves of plants are more graceful and attractive if vines are 
placed at the ends. Striped Vinca, Tradescantia, German 
Ivy, are all pretty used in this way. We also set pots of the 
lovely, freely blooming, small pink Begonias, which do not need 
much sun, at the ends. By occasionally placing in full sunlight 
the bright pink color of the blossoms is preserved. These sym- 
metrical, luxuriantly blossoming favorites make charming 
dining table ornaments. 
A S WITH outdoor plants and vegetables, pests are a problem 
l for the window-gardener! It is most important to keep 
a lynx eye for beginnings and dispose of any bugs which may 
appear, before they have a chance to increase, which they do 
with lightning rapidity. The green aphis is among the worst 
of these pests, and is such a nuisance that 1 find it best, in select- 
ing plants for window gardening, to avoid as far as possible those 
varieties which it infests. Geraniums, Primulas, and Begonias 
are free from this, and nearly all other pests; Heliotropes, Ver- 
benas, and Roses are nearly always attacked bv it. If one can 
obtain tobacco stems — refuse from cigar makers— and steep 
them until the water is the color of strong tea, and with that 
spray the plants liberally, the aphis is usually disposed of. Or 
sprinkle the plants with tobacco dust after spraying with water. 
We sometimes find that we can get the few infested plants into 
good order by making a strong solution of soap suds and dipping 
the plants, branch by branch, in it, shaking them up and down 
and perhaps brushing gently with a soft paint brush. 
Red spider is a real menace. This usually appears when the 
air is too hot and dry and is best combatted by frequent spraying 
with water and by reducing the heat. Brush leaves and sprigs 
gently with the soft brush, not neglecting the under sides. 
Mealy bug is an almost natural associate of certain plants; 
it is a disagreeable, powdery bug which hides at the base of the 
leaf. I have usu- 
ally fought these 
successfully by re- 
moving with a 
wooden toothpick. 
Spraying with fir 
tree oil (one cup 
to five gallons of 
water is recom- 
mended) is a cer- 
tain cure. 
We are much 
annoyed by a sort 
of thrip, like a 
minute white 
moth, which will 
not sit still long 
enough to be 
fought. This al- 
ways attacks our 
N asturtiums so 
inevitably as to 
make us decide to 
give up our trellis 
oftherunningtype 
with which we 
used to surround our “system” of three adjoining plant win- 
dows in our dining room. [This is the white fly, unquestionably, 
which must be treated and fought like a scale. Fumigation 
is the only sure means. — Ed.] Nasturtiums are, however, a 
“must have” and we compromise by keeping one pot of them, 
training the vines up, down, and around a trellis, not too high 
to watch. Hand picking is the only remedy 1 know for these 
wretched creatures. Although the list of pests, however short, 
seems appalling, one must remember that, with intelligent care, 
pests rarely become a real nuisance. We congratulated our- 
selves, on entire immunity last winter. 
Once in a while earthworms become too numerous. Remove 
the pot from any suspected plant and investigate, and repot if 
necessary. A small amount of soil may always be obtained 
from a florist, if one has not been forehanded enough to prepare 
a reserve supply from the garden before winter sets in. 
Lastly, take good care of the general appearance of your 
house plants. Even healthy, freely blooming plants may look 
untidy and not as ornamental as they should. Pick off any 
yellow leaves, seed vessels, and withered flowers. Wash the 
outside of the pot occasionally, keep the windows polished, and 
the shelves clean. Group effectively, with due regard to har- 
mony in coloring. Allow plenty of space between the plants 
and remove misshapen and unhealthy specimens to your plant 
hospital, or discard entirely. Occasionally buy a plant in full 
flower to give variety or supply a loss. 
"KNOCKING OUT” BEFORE REPOTTING 
The plant rests on the palm and is held by 
two fingers. The pot is given a sharp rap 
FERTILIZERS FOR POTTED PLANTS 
N OTHING better than weak cow manure liquid has been 
found — made at the rate of two bushels of manure in 
50 gallons (or one barrel) of water. There is positively no 
danger of “burning” the roots when this material is used. 
Horse manure and sheep manure which are stronger may be 
used instead, but in proportion of not more than one bushel 
and one half bushel respectively to be safe. More convenient 
and cleaner are the prepared chemical preparations to be had 
in the seed stores. These are safe if used according to the 
instructions on the package. On the principle that “a little 
more” will get bigger and quicker results the dose is some- 
times increased and the result is disastrous. Better by far an 
under supply than to give an overdose that may easily be fatal. 
Remember that there is really very little soil contained in a 
flower pot that holds a growing plant with its roots spreading 
all through the ball. 
A formula for home mixing that has been fully tested is as 
follows: 
Nitrate of soda 8 ounces 
Monobasic calcium phosphate 16 
Sulphate of potash io 
Water i gallon 
For use: One part to 30 parts water, applied to the plants not 
more than once a week. 
