164 
The Garden Magazine, November, 1920 
slimy fluid over which they can crawl with immunity. As is true in 
all wars with plant pests, one must keep eternally at it or the slugs and 
snails will steal a march. Then woe to the newly opened leaves! — J. J. D. 
The Best Hardy Leek 
To the Editor of The Garden Magazine: 
W HAT is the best hardy leek? I want one that will not die out in 
zero temperature. Musselburg has been a failure two years out 
of three. — William Erb, Long Island. 
— We are quite surprised to learn that any Leek should freeze out, even 
during zero weather, since the Leek is regarded as one of the hardiest 
of all vegetables. There must be something in the method in which 
these Leeks are grown that makes them so susceptible to frost. Any 
Leeks forced to extra size through extraordinary application of water 
and concentrated fertilizer would of course be much more susceptible to 
freezing than the product that is grown more slowly, and is therefore 
more hardy. Now the variety we know to be the hardiest of all is 
Rouen Winter, and several good seed houses in the United States han- 
dle the true stock. 1 his variety, however, does not grow as broad and 
thick as either Musselburg or American Flag. These three, by the way, 
are all favorably known and widely growrn all over Europe and in 
Canada. — Ed. 
fMontfvs & QmindQr 
“ Come with me, then, behind the scenes, where we are concerned only with the joys of plant increase and rejuvenation ” 
The Reminder is to “suggest” what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of 
how to do each item are given in the current or the back issues of theTHE Garden Magazine— it 
is manifestly impossible to give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. 
References to back numbers may be looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent 
gratis on request), and the Service Department will also be glad to cite references to any special 
topic if asked by mail. 
When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York Citv at sea level in a nor- 
mal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 
advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from 
New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, 
about a week earlier Also allow Jour days for each degree of latitude, for Jeach five degrees of 
longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 
NOVEMBER — THE MONTH OF GETTING INDOORS 
ET ready for the coming winter by gathering protective ma- 
fffiv terial for tender plants, and for covering up the hardy borders, 
and beds generally after they are frozen over ; and by cleaning 
J up the remnants of the seasons crops, so as to have everything 
tidy and in readiness for a clean start another year. 
In the Vegetable Garden 
Celery will have to be stored sometime during the month. Dig all root 
vegetables without delay and store in trenches; or an old box or 
barrel buried in the ground may be utilized. Better still is to 
store in moist sand in a cold frostproof cellar. 
Late crops of Lettuce still outdoors may be prolonged for some weeks 
yet if protected during freezing weather with salt hay and leaves. 
Put Cabbage in trenches upside down and cover the heads. 
Cut off the tops of the Asparagus plants and burn them. Cultivate 
between the rows, and when the ground freezes apply a mulch of 
manure. 
Protect French Globe Artichoke by laying some fine brush over them 
before covering them with corn stalks or other coarse litter. 
Heavy retentive soils will be benefited by trenching or double digging 
at this time, leaving the surface as rough as possible. 
In the Flower Garden 
Plant all spring flowering bulbs. 
Dig over vacant beds and leave as rough as possible. 
Start giving protection to such things as tender Hydrangeas, Box- 
woods, Rhododendrons, and Hemlocks in exposed situations. 
Cut off and burn all flower stalks. 
Gather up the stakes and put them away for another season. 
Get the mulching material to some convenient place and apply it 
after the ground freezes sufficiently. 
Perennials may be planted until the ground freezes up. 
Lift and store, preferably in a dry cool cellar, Montbretias, Cannas, 
Dahlias, Gladiolus, and other tender summer-flowering bulbs. 
Cannas winter well under a greenhouse bench. The best method of 
wintering Dahlias is to cover them with moist sand, on the floor 
of a frost proof cellar. 
Cut everlasting flowers, such as Gomphrenas, and Straw-flowers before 
they are badly frozen, and hang up indoors to dry. 
Fall sown Sweet Peas flower much earlier than spring sown. In the 
vicinity of New York and the colder sections of the North Atlantic 
states protection is essential. 
In the Orchard 
The orchard is to be a permanent feature of the place so prepare the 
ground well. Plow deep, and subsoil to break up the hard pan 
usually found beneath the surface soil. Make the holes where 
the trees are to go much larger than necessary, and fill them up 
with good soil and incorporate plenty of well-rotted barn yard 
manure. 
Apples and Pears are best set in the fall, while the stone fruits do better 
if left until spring. However prepare the soil now. 
Prune Grapes and fruit trees any time this month, and if the wood of 
the vines is wanted for cuttings, or the scions of fruit trees for 
grafting tie into bundles and bury in the ground until spring. 
In the Greenhouses 
Keep the Chrysanthemum house cool and dry, ventilation and fire 
heat being regulated to this end. Root cuttings of bush Chrysan- 
themums. 
Cease picking off the flowering stems from the winter flowering Ge- 
raniums, where flowers are wanted for Christmas. Feed the 
plants with Clay’s fertilizer. 
Lift from the open ground Campanulas for forcing, pot, and place in a 
deep frame until wanted next January. 
Allamandas and Bougainvilleas that have been growing on during the 
summer have made all necessary growth, and should be rested. 
Roman Hyacinths and Paper-white Narcissus that have made plenty 
of roots can be placed in a temperature of 50 degrees, and successive 
batches brought in every ten days to maintain a succession. 
Pot on Cinerarias, and Schizanthus as they require it. Grow them 
cool (45 degrees at night.) 
Avoid wide fluctuations of temperature where Poinsettias are grown, 
maintaining 60 degrees at night steadily. Feed with weak liquid 
manure twice a week as soon as the bracts show color. 
Discontinue pinching of Carnations. Maintain an even temperature 
at night of 50 degrees. Early cuttings may be taken. 
Roses that have been flowering for some time will stand feeding with 
moderate quantities of liquid manure, or topdressing with a mix- 
ture of half soil and half cow manure. 
Palms and stove plants need a moderate resting period. Keep the 
house a few degrees lower at night (about 60 degrees). 
Large flowering English Primroses offer something in the way of var- 
iety. Plant them out in a house with a violet house temperature 
or winter them in pots in the frames, and bring them in some time 
in February for Easter flowering. 
In the cool house grow Beets, Cauliflower, Parsley, green Onions, 
Radishes, and Spinach, with Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb 
under the benches. In the warm house, String-beans, Bush- 
limas, Cucumbers, Melons, Tomatoes. Start Mushrooms now. 
In the Fruit House 
Look out for mealy bug. Prune vines as soon as they have shed their 
leaves. 
Remove loose bark and fumigate the house with hydrocyanic acid 
gas. Paint the canes with wood alcohol. 
Mint, Taragon, Chives, and other herbs may be potted up for use 
during the winter. 
