The Garden Magazine, December, 1920 
181 
in full flower at one time. Soil and water free from lime are 
essential to the Heathers. 
IVith the warmer sun of February generally following rains 
the gray-leaved Acacia Baileyana is covered with its yellow 
flowers, and later in the month A. mollissima and A. dealbata 
draw even more notice by their odor almost of heliotrope. The 
leaning Streptosolen Jamesoni sometimes referred to as the 
“orange heliotrope” blooms profusely at this time, but is some- 
times cut down by frost. Cestrum elegans (often called Ha- 
brothamnus) is a somewhat untidy grower, but its clusters of 
long red flowers now give fine color, brighter than the orange- 
yellow C. aurantiacum, though the latter is neater, rather sug- 
gesting an evergreen Lilac in growth. Laurustinus (Viburnum 
tinus) with broad heads of 
white flowers, pink in the bud, 
is frequently planted. This is 
an old south European plant, 
and the garden forms vary 
greatly, grandiflora being the 
best type. It is often used as 
a hedge. 
That relative of the orange, 
Choisya ternata, blooms first 
in winter though its white, 
sweet-scented flowers often re- 
appear later in the year. For 
its excellent foliage alone we 
should plant it. The feathery 
light-green foliage of Grevillea 
Thelemanniana is now spangled 
with its clusters of bright rose- 
red flowers, and the heath-like 
Diosma ericoides sprinkled 
with the dainty little white 
flowers whose scent has given 
it the common name of Breath- 
of-heaven. All these are ever- 
greens, but a few deciduous 
shrubs are needed for variety 
and color. The pink-flowering 
Currant is very early in blos- 
soming, but gets pretty shabby 
in summer. The Forsythias 
are early but not only do less 
well than on the Atlantic coast 
but are greatly overshadowed 
by more gorgeous neighbors. 
Kerria japonica, in particular 
the double form, is a fine 
orange-colored winter bloomer. 
Cydonia japonica, the scarlet 
Flowering Quince, is very early 
and beautiful, often in bloom 
for a couple of months, and of 
reasonably attractive apear- 
ance thereafter. There are also 
less popular pink-and-white- 
flowered forms. All are good 
for cutting. 1 like the scarlet 
form planted with the double 
Spiraea prunifolia, which is the 
first of that family to bloom. 
Spiraeas are less valuable in 
California than in the East, 
but this one is quite worth 
while. The most noticeable 
climbers of this period are per- 
haps the Wistarias and the 
whiteClematis montana, which 
latter does well even on a north 
wall. 
Spring Flowering Trees and Shrubs 
Flowering fruit trees deserve a special paragraph, if only to 
emphasize their desirability. The first to flower is Prunus 
Pissardi, a small tree with almost white flowers and following 
them leaves which are purple when they first appear. Of the 
flowering Peaches my preference is for the semi-double early red, 
but there are later double reds, pinks, and whites. If pink is 
desired, preference might be given to the double-flowering 
Almond, as it is an even better grower and not subject to curl. 
All these flower before the leaves, and their colors are wonderful 
against an evergreen background. The flowering Crabapples 
are a bit later. Pyrus floribunda is deservedly the most popular 
because of its profusion of 
small, single rose-pink flowers. 
The double Prunus ioensis 
(Bechtel’s double - flowering 
Crab) is a dwarf grower, often 
blooming while still only a 
couple of feet high. Its flowers 
are like little pink Roses, and it 
forms a lovely combination 
with Iris pallida dalmatica in 
April. For late March and 
April we have the Japanese 
flowering Cherries. The early 
single weeping form, and the 
later larger flowered double 
white and pink should be in 
every garden where space 
allows. 
In late spring bloom Deut- 
zias, Weigelas, Lilacs, and 
Syringas but they are relatively 
of less importance than in 
colder climates. They all do 
best under the colder, wetter 
conditions of the northern part 
of the state. This is also the 
time of all Roses, bush and 
climbing, excepting the mul- 
tiflora and wichuraiana clim- 
bers, which flower in May. 
Some Natives. No imported 
plant will give the fine blue 
effects obtained from a well- 
grown group of the native 
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, our so- 
called Wild Lilac. Among 
other natives Carpenteria cali- 
fornica looks much like a 
Syringa, but the flowers are 
larger and the foliage is ever- 
green. Fremontia californica 
has beautiful golden - yellow 
flowers. 
Two plant families should 
always be represented among 
the flowering shrubs of the 
spring, for all their members 
will stand much drought and 
neglect and may therefore be 
grown in dry, rough places. 
These are the Broom (Cytisus), 
and the Rock-rose (Cistus), 
families. Particular attention 
is directed to the Portugal 
Broom (Cytisus albus), covered 
with small white pea -shaped 
flowers in early spring, the 
Scotch Broom (C. scoparius). 
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 
Note: So much planting and seed-sowing can he done at any 
time of the year in California that it is only possible to indicate 
in a general way the seasonal tasks, and even these vary greatly 
with the distance north or south, on the coast or inland. 
January and February are the best months of the year in 
which to plant deciduous trees and shrubs, including Roses, as 
they can then be handled without soil on their roots. It is 
also a good time to plant evergreen shrubs, but if these are 
balled or in pots they may be planted practically any month 
of the year if they can be watered afterward. These are 
also the best months to prune fruit-trees and such deciduous 
shrubs as do not bloom in spring. Cuttings of Hydrangeas, 
Fuchsias, and Roses should now be put in. When ground is 
not sticky, divide and replant hardy perennials. Hardy an- 
nuals such as Calendulas, Annual Chrysanthemums, and 
Larkspurs may be sown in the open where they will bloom. 
Set out Pansies, Violas, and Stocks. 
March and April. Finish planting deciduous stock and 
continue with evergreens. Sow half-hardy annuals in boxes 
for summer flowers. Cannas may now be planted and 
Gladiolus for mid-summer flowering. Propagate Dahlias and 
Chrysanthemums by cuttings. Spray with bordeaux such 
multiflora Roses as are subject to mildew 7 . Discourage aphis 
with nicotine preparations. 
May and June. Now that the rains are over, irrigate 
regularly and follow up w 7 ith cultivation to conserve the mois- 
ture. Sprinkling is worse than useless. Plant out Cannas, 
Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, Begonias, and such warmth- 
loving annuals as Zinnias and Celosias. Put in last Gladiolus 
for succession. Divide and replant Violets for next winter’s 
bloom. Dig up spring-flowering bulbs if the ground on w 7 hich 
they are grown is needed. As the summers are so long they 
will keep better if in dry soil or sand. Prune spring-flowering 
deciduous shrubs. 
July and August. Rest up as much as the necessity of 
watering and cultivating will allow. Mulch Chrysanthemums 
with manure. Mulch and disbud Dahlias. Sow seeds of 
perennials such as Larkspur, Foxglove, and Coreopsis, and 
at the end of the latter month sow Pansies, Stocks, Wall- 
flowers, and Snapdragons for winter bloom. Divide and re- 
plant tall bearded Iris. 
September and October. In the first month prune back 
Roses and water and cultivate them to encourage autumn 
flowers. Sow Sweet Peas for early bloom. Plant Freesias 
and Watsonias in September, all other spring-flow r ering bulbs 
in October. This is a good time to make new lawn. October 
is about the best month to put in cuttings of Carnations, 
Geraniums, Pelargoniums, and Pentstemons, and hard-wood 
Rose cuttings. 
November and December. Continue planting spring- 
flowering bulbs. If they are in good condition, Tulips may be 
put in as late as Christmas and yet give good results. Sow 
in open ground such hardy annuals as Calendula, Larkspur, 
Scarlet Flax, Poppy, Nasturtium, Sweet Peas, and the many 
attractive native annuals — all will give spring flowers. Set 
out Pansies, Stocks, Snapdragons, and Wallflowers. Divide 
and replant perennials. Fertilize lawn. Toward the end of 
the year plant dormant deciduous trees and shrubs. 
