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"Come with me, then, behind the scenes, where we are concerned only with the joys oj plant increase and rejuvenation ” 
The Reminder is to “suggest” what may be done during the next few weeks Details of 
tou to do each item are given in the current or the back issues of theTHE Garden Magazine — it 
is manifestly impossible to give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. 
References to back numbers may be looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent 
gratis on request), and the Service Department will also be glad to cite references to any special 
topic if asked by mail. 
When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City at sea level in a nor- 
mal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 
advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from 
New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, 
about a week earlier. Also allow Jour days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of 
longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 
DECEMBER— THE MONTH OF FORESIGHT 
S O LONG as the ground remains open continue deciduous plant- 
ing. If large trees are to be moved with a frozen ball of earth, 
cover the ground about the trees (as far as the spread of the 
| branches), with straw, or manure, to prevent the ground freez- 
ing so hard as to make the work of digging laborious. Moving 
trees with a frozen ball is a convenient, practical, and inexpensive 
method of handling a limited number of trees for short distances. Clean 
up and burn all refuse and rubbish, except the fallen leaves. 
Pruning and Spraying 
Spray now while the trees are dormant, and when there is time, and 
when strong solutions can be used. 
Whenever possible proceed with pruning. It is not a good practice 
to prune branches from trees or shrubs when the mercury is hov- 
ering around zero; nor to spray when the solution will freeze as it 
is applied. Preserve the sky line values in your belt plantations 
where topping back is necessary. 
It is all very well to thin out crowded and crossing branches in a fruit 
tree, but it is not intelligent pruning when the same rule is applied 
to a plantation of shrubbery containing plants with highly colored 
bark, the purpose of which was to create winter effects. Straight- 
line pruning is not an infrequent error made by even experienced 
pruners. 
Cut back the garden types of Roses (Teas, Hybrid-teas, and Hybrid- 
perpetuals), when they are being protected for the winter. Long 
canes swayed and whipped about by the wind during the winter 
will loosen the plants in the soil. Cut back two thirds of the 
length. 
With an up-to-date sprayer, and concentrated lime-sulphur solution, 
scalecide, miscible oils, kerosene emulsion (all of which are to be 
had as commercial preparations, are reliable, and are ready for 
use by merely adding so many parts of water). Choose a quiet 
day, and keep on the windward side of the spray. 
Vegetables 
If you have vour patch of Lettuce round which you have built a frame, 
and covered it with sash, give further protection by banking leaves 
and manure round the sides. Mats, boards, and leaves should 
also be placed over the sash. 
Celery stored in trenches outdoors and protected with a mulch will be 
safe from early frosts, but with the approach of more severe weather 
should be removed to the cellar. One convenient way to handle 
is to place an inch or two of sand in boxes of convenient size, 
(about as deep as the Celery is tall) and transfer the Celery to 
these, after giving the sand a good watering. 
Trenching and Draining 
Those sections of the garden that could not be cleared in time for cover 
crops to be sown, can be benefited by trenching, if the ground 
remains open. If manure is available first put on a liberal appli- 
cation. Dig as thoroughly as possible two spits deep. Start 
along one side of the plot, throwing the soil out. Spade up the 
bottom, turning it where it falls, and on top of this after you have 
put the manure and mixed it in, turn the top soil from the next 
strip — and so on. 
If crops are backward in spring, and the ground wet and soggy it is 
safe to assume that draining is needed. This work can be done 
any time from now until the ground is frozen too hard to dig. 
Forcing 
Start forcing in earnest this month. Among the first things to be 
started are the early Grapes, and early Peaches (pot trees respond 
easier to early forcing than do those planted in the borders, hence 
should be started first). If the two are started together, the pot 
trees will give ripe fruit ten days in advance. 
It is not really necessary to have a greenhouse for dark forcing which 
may begin toward the end of the month; but is usually best ac- 
complished under the greenhouse bench, as a part of the regular 
routine. Rhubarb, Asparagus, Mushrooms, Endive, and Sea- 
kale, are all forced in about the same way; the dormant roots (with 
the exception of Mushrooms, which are planted by spawn), being 
planted in a prepared bed, which is darkened by a screen of burlap 
or boards. If you have no greenhouse, utilize the cellar or a hot 
bed. 
An early batch of Strawberries can also be started with the Grapes 
and Peaches if shelves can be provided for them. 
Tomatoes under glass need attention to set fruit. Tap the vines a 
couple of times during the day to cause the pollen to fly, and in 
very dark, dull weather it may be necessary to recourse to hand 
pollination. 
In the Greenhouse 
Start Melons. Fruit from plants started at this time will be of better 
flavor than that which is ripened from the new year up to the 
middle of April. Sow winter varieties like His Eminence and 
Hero of Lockinge. 
Roman Hyacinths may be flowered by Christmas if they are well 
rooted and have made two inches of growth by the beginning of 
the month. 
Stake as occasion requires tall plants such as Antirrhinum, Lilies, etc. 
Short stuff such as Freesias, can be supported by a few twigs in 
the pots or boxes. String beans may be supported in the same 
manner. 
Amaryllis wanted early may be started at this time. It is not good 
practice to repot these plants too frequently. The best method 
of handling is to remove a couple of inches of the old surface soil 
from the pots, and replace each year with a good rich mixture. 
Keep Chrysanthemum stock plants cool so they will throw out strong 
sturdy cuttings. 
Be careful with Sweet-peas at this season, avoiding direct draughts, 
and a close stuffy atmosphere during dull weather. Do not 
overwater; Sweet-peas require lots of water when outdoors in 
spring, but not indoors in winter. Make another sowing for 
April flowering. 
Orchids need less overhead spraying now, but guard against dry arid 
conditions with increased fire heat, as the depth of winter ap- 
proaches. 
Bouvardia Humboldtii that has finished flowering may be cut down. 
Place plants in deep flats, and set under a carnation house bench 
to remain dormant until April. 
Propagate Carnations. Firing will be fairly steady from now on, and 
an even degree of bottom heat can be maintained. 
Sow seeds of Vinca alba and rosea in heat to get to flowering size before 
planting out time. 
Flowers for Christmas 
Flowers for Christmas, such as Lilies, Poinsettias, Azaleas, Roses, 
Carnations, etc., may be hurried along for the holiday by a 
slight increase in temperature. Be careful not to over do it 
however, especially with the permanent fixtures like Roses, and 
Carnations. 
Bulbs for late indoor forcing may still be planted, and set away to make 
a mass of roots before being placed in heat. 
Henry Gibson, Pennsylvania. 
214 
