The Garden Magazine, February, 1921 
303 
Grape canes are to be painted with some insecticide in a 
general spring clean-up before gradual forcing is started 
growing temperature, the plants will get soft and lanky, and nothing will be 
gained by the early start. 
Place in coldframe as soon as possible and keep moderately dry until the 
time to set out. Have ready deep trenches liberally enriched with well- 
rotted manure thoroughly incorporated with the soil, and the results will be 
not only a better grade of flower, but the plants. will continue to be pro- 
ductive right into the very hot weather. There is indeed no secret about 
the growing of good Sweet-peas and the method briefly outlined will yield 
first-class results. 
Cuttings for Spring Bedding 
W HERE spring bedding plants, such as Geranium, Coleus, Heliotrope, 
Ageratum, Achyranthes, Alternanthera, etc., are required — and some- 
times they are wanted in large quantities for other purposes besides bedding, 
such as piazza boxes, window boxes, etc — it is time to begin preparations, 
and take cuttings from “stock plants” i. e. old ones carried on for the 
purpose. It is ridiculous to carry young plants through the winter with 
the idea of using them later on. A few stock plants will furnish the necessary 
number of cuttings for young plants that will be superior in every way; and 
constant pinching will increase the side shoots so that plenty of cuttings 
may be had. The plants which have been underneath the benches for 
storage should be brought up to the light for a week or ten days prior 
to taking the cuttings, so as to get the “wood” properly hardened to assure 
rooting when placed in the sand. Use clean, sharp, porous sand for the 
cutting bench, for it is the succession of changes that causes the callusing 
of the cutting and the subsequent rooting. 
The more frequently the cutting bed can be 
watered without causing any excess of water 
to stay in the sand the quicker rooting action 
will start. Root growth seems to develop in 
the soil a poison that the drainage removes. 
Before putting in cuttings thoroughly water 
the sand and firm it by pounding with something 
heavy — a brick on edge is a splendid tool. When 
the roots are a half to three-quarters of an inch 
long, lift the cuttings and pot separately, using a 
soil which has been screened to eliminate coarse 
manure or other fertilising material. Then shade 
for several days — until the young plants have 
started to make root in their new quarters. This 
method followed for the propagation of Dahlias 
A glass frame is the 
proper place to receive 
the cuttings of tender 
plants as they are put 
in pots to root 
During February prop- 
agate all the needed 
bedding plants for sum- 
mer use. The cuttings 
are taken from the old 
stock plants and put in 
sand 
will give a considerable quantity from comparatively little stock, and “cutting 
plants” produce flowers of remarkable quality. The best method with 
Dahlias is to lay the old root on a bench, in the greenhouse, or on the surface 
of a hotbed, partly cover with sand, or coarse cinders, leaving the eyes 
entirely exposed. This gives good, hard cuttings that will not flag when 
placed in the cutting bench. 
Cannas are similarly started, except that instead of taking cuttings the 
old stool can be sub-divided into separate eyes, potting up each one 
separately when root action has started and the eye begins to develop growth. 
Attending to the Fruit House 
W HERE fruit trees are grown in pots the time is at hand to get all in 
readiness for the start into growth. The house should be painted 
inside, a sort of insurance against the mealy bug and other insect pests. 
Scrape the Grape canes thoroughly to remove all loose bark and then paint 
with wood alcohol or a strong solution of some good insecticide, being 
careful not to get any on the “eyes.” After this cleaning, to assure 
