338 
The Garden Magazine, February, 1921 
another coat of paint to the new that is soon to be used. Liquid 
putty greatly accelerates the work of glazing. Don’t attempt to 
struggle along with less sash than you really need. It is very con- 
venient to have a few extra frames to accommodate the little 
seedlings from the hotbed so that they do not become over- 
crowded. 
Put sash on any frames that have not been in use during winter so 
that the ground can be getting warmed up. 
Making a Hotbed 
A hotbed is indispensable for an early garden, and manure for this 
should be obtained as soon.as possible. Turn a few times to allow 
the rank heat to escape; if a few leaves are added, a gentler and 
more prolonged heat will be maintained. 
With no equipment on hand, one may still have a hotbed this spring. 
Secure the manure as early as possible and as soon as it is actively 
heating, pack it in a low pile two feet longer and wider than the 
actual size of the frame, and from two to three feet deep. When 
the frame is placed in position bank it up to the top with leaves 
and manure. Frozen lumps of soil put into the frame will soon 
thaw out; or, if preferred, the flats of soil, with the seed sown in 
them, may be set on top of the manure inside the frame. It is 
wise, however, to place a covering of soil over the manure even 
when this plan is adopted. 
Actual planting must not be done until the heat has reached its highest 
point and begun to decline (as shown by a thermometer plunged 
in the soil) to eighty or eighty-five degrees. Lettuce, Beets, 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Carrots interplanted with small-top 
Radishes may be sown during the month. 
The hotbed thermometer is only one of several appliances that are 
real aids to early gardening. They are no longer “novelties” 
but very practical assets. Protectors of various types used on 
cold nights permit planting outdoors one or two weeks earlier than 
would otherwise be safe, and used as forcers during the day will 
hurry up crops verging on maturity while others left to themselves 
are just breaking ground. 
In the Greenhouse 
With the lengthening days and increasing power of the sun, plants are 
awakening to new life and a general spring scrub-down or clean- 
up may be started. Proceed with annual re-potting of such foliage 
plants as Palms, Crotons, Pandanus, Marantas, etc. 
Cut up clumps of Cannas preparatory to starting into growth and dust 
sulphur over the cut surfaces. 
Pelargoniums now in small pots, if potted into four inch size, will make 
by spring fine plants well covered with buds and flowers. 
Propagation of Crotons and similar foliage plants can be attended to 
in a close propagating frame with brisk bottom heat. 
The bulbs of Calanthes should be rested in a dry place where the tem- 
perature does not go below 50° after they are through flower- 
ing. 
Give stock plants of Chrysanthemums a light position in a tempera- 
ture of 48°. Early cuttings should be taken. 
Start Elephant Ears (Caladium esculentum) into growth in gentle 
heat. 
Cinerarias require a cool temperature; 40° to 45° suits them best. 
Repot any plants that are pot bound to keep them growing, for the 
flowers require the setting of well-developed foliage. 
Calceolarias intended for early spring flowering, should have a position 
in the greenhouse with a northern exposure. They cannot stand 
direct sunlight, and are most impatient of heat, a temperature 
anywhere above actual freezing suits them better than anything 
above 40°. On clear mornings spray lightly overhead. 
Calla Lilies need frequent feeding to keep on producing first class 
blooms with long stems. Liquid cow manure is best and twice 
a week is not too often. Remember that the soil must not be dry 
when the liquid manure is applied or burning of the roots may 
result. 
Keep Genistas cool in a temperature that does not greatly exceed 45° 
giving plenty of water; liquid manure once a week. 
With increased sun heat and longer days, Orchids will show signs of 
active growth. Quite a number of Cattleyas have had a nice 
rest, and before the new growths get too big is the best time to 
repot them, or give a top-dressing. Adequate drainage is an 
essential, as is firm potting. Water with care at this time. Fre- 
quent syringings, and a moist atmosphere are conducive to healthy 
growth. Ventilation is important, care being taken to avoid cold 
drafts upon the plants. As we advance toward spring a little 
shade is necessary, to break the direct rays of the sun. 
Clumps of hardy Perennials lifted last fall and wintered in cold frames 
may be brought into a temperature of 45°. Spireas (Astilbe) 
should be well advanced and in a temperature of 55°. 
Give Stevia stock plants a light place in a cool house. 
Seed Sowing for the Flower Garden 
Hardy herbaceous Perennials sown now will make nice plants by fall 
that will winter outdoors. 
For cutting during April, May, and June sow Candytuft, Calendulas,. 
Stocks, Sweet-peas, Cornflowers, Gladiolus, and African Daisies 
now. Annual Larkspur sown now will flower at the end of May; 
early Asters in June. Sow seeds of Dahlias now; last year’s 
roots set in the bench will soon throw up cuttings for propagating 
purposes. 
Sow Canterbury-bells to transplant when large enough and set out in 
May for flowering next season. Sow Cobaea scandens. 
Pennisetum longistylum for edging semi-tropical beds should be sown 
now, and, after potting off, grow cool. 
Sow These Vegetables 
Make a sowing of early Tomato plants now for strong plants for setting 
outdoors at the end of May. 
Sow Cucumbers, Melons, Tomatoes, Cauliflower, etc., for forcing in- 
doors. 
Sow Cabbage, Lettuce, Beets, and Onions for later transplanting to- 
coldframes. 
Seeds of Asparagus Sprengeri, Smilax, and Fibrous Begonias may still 
be sown. 
Sow seeds of Annuals for spring planting to be followed bv another 
sowing at a later date. 
Cuttings to be Made Now 
Clean the old sand out of the propagating bench, and start with a 
new supply. If this is not convenient, saturate the old sand 
thoroughly with boiling-hot water before inserting cuttings of any 
kind. 
Put root-cuttings of Bouvardias into the propagating bench. Make 
the cuttings about an inch long. Shade the bench until the ap- 
pearance of top growth, then expose to full sunlight. 
Select the best and sturdiest side growth from the Violets for propaga- 
ting. They will root readily in the bench used for propagating 
Carnations. When rooted, box them up and set them in a 
light position in the violet house until they can be planted out- 
doors. 
Put old plants of Lemon Verbena into a warm house to make growths 
which may be rooted readily in a warm propagating bench. 
Take cuttings of double Petunias. 
Stock plants of Salvias need temperature of 55-58° at night to produce 
material for cuttings; sow in a temperature of 50°. 
Cuttings of Coleus, Achyranthes and all plants needed for bedding 
purposes should be propagated as material is available. 
Flowers for Easter 
Easter falls on March 27th, and any bulbs that are wanted for that 
date should be brought in with that date in mind. Follow 
a definite system in the supply of bulbs so as to have some in 
bloom continuously. 
Shrubs intended for Easter holiday display should be well under way 
in a temperature of 50°. Start Tuberous Begonias in a tempera- 
ture of 55°. 
Lilium formosum intended to be in flower for Easter should have the 
buds well set by the middle of the month and will come in nicely 
in a temperature of 55°. Any that have not arrived at this stage 
of development may be hurried along with more heat, yet where a 
general collection of plants is grown it is not advisable to sacrifice 
them on account of a few laggard Lilies. 
Roses will take more water now and feeding may be done more liberally 
now that the growth is more active. With the sun heat and the 
fire heat conditions are favorable to red spider. Don’t allow too 
great a difference between the night and day temperatures. Don’t 
allow the temperature at midday to reach 90° or more and then 
have it drop to 6o° late in the afternoon. Keep up the tem- 
perature in the afternoon and maintain 6o° throughout the 
night. 
