29 
r v 
The Garden Magazine, March, 1921 
I anthers, or pollen-bearing organs, by means of tweezers. 
The remainder of the flower is then loosely, but completely 
covered to avoid undesirable pollination by insects. For this 
covering, waxed paper, held in place by tying around the 
stem, will be found very satisfactory. This process may be 
repeated as each flower on the spike reaches the proper stage, 
and in about twenty-four hours after preparation the stigma 
i will be ready to receive pollen from the variety that has been 
| selected for the staminate parent. 
A magnifying glass will aid in determining when the powdery 
pollen grains are ready to be transferred to the stigma of the 
I prepared flower. This is done by removing the anthers by 
means of tweezers, placing them in a saucer which is then 
carried to the prepared flower from which the covering has been 
removed, and the anthers, held between the tweezer points, 
j gently rubbed on the stigma. Some plant breeders use a camel’s 
I hair brush or a flattened pin set in a wooden handle in trans- 
| ferring the pollen. 
The treated flower is then covered with the waxed paper 
i and thus left for a few days. If successful pollination has 
| taken place, the seed pod will gradually develop. When it 
j reaches a length of about one inch, and the pod has become more 
or less dried, it will require careful watching so as to avoid 
| loss of the seeds which may occur if the pod is left on the plant 
I after ripening. 
When the seeds are removed from the pods they may be 
I placed in a bottle of sand till early spring and then planted in 
j sandy soil, or they may be planted immediately in a pot of rich 
1 sandy loam and placed in a sunny window. 
Until the appearance of the tiny seedlings, it is well to cover 
] the pot with a small pane of glass, in order to keep a uniform 
I moisture. Placing the pot within another that is slightly 
f larger, and packing the intervening space with wet moss, will 
j also aid in conserving moisture. 
In the spring, when danger from frost is past, sink the pot 
to its rim in the garden soil and let the young seedlings develop 
j their small bulbs during the balance of the warm season. One 
HOW THE “BULB” INCREASES 
In addition to the renewal bulb a host of "cormels” 
are found. These will grow into flowering “bulbs” 
I great advantage of this method is that it provides a long grow- 
ing period and results in stronger bulbs by the end of the first 
I season. 
After removing and drying these small bulbs, which will 
■ range in size up to that of a chestnut, they may be placed in 
GLADIOLUS FOR DECORATION 
The admixture of some graceful foliage is quite admissible in the decorative use 
of the somewhat rigid spikes. (Adlumia foliage with Gladiolus Rochester) 
paper bags, carefully labeled, and stored in a cool, dry place till 
the next spring, when they are planted as other bulbs. 
If the soil is good and conditions are favorable, many of the 
bulbs will produce flowers during this second season, while some 
may require another season to reach the blooming stage. 
Of course, all the flowers will not measure up to the ideals 
set by the breeder, though a number may be well worth culti- 
vating or improving. The first flowers do not usually express 
the highest development of the variety, and still another 
season’s growth may be necessary to determine ultimate results. 
When removing the bulbs from the ground, carefully preserve 
every small bulblet that has developed at the base of the 
“mother” bulb, as these, planted the following season, re- 
produce the variety from which they are taken. 
The first requisite in plant breeding is, as aforesaid, unlimited 
patience and a capacity to accept disappointment philosophi- 
cally; but when one has actually experienced the pleasure of 
rewarded watching for the seedling blooms, the long period of 
waiting seems amply justified. 
