126 
The Garden Magazine, April, 1921 
IT’S WHITE PINE! 
If kept dipped down this forest 
tree makes an impenetrable hedge 
as is seen in this demonstration 
block on the Government Experi- 
ment Farms, Ottawa, Canada 
when split with a knife, will reveal several maggots in the 
stem, which later develop; so the reason for early removal is 
obvious. 
The leader on Pines and Spruce is often removed to induce a 
greater compactness. This method is the one to adopt when the 
White Pine is used to form a hedge. By removing the strong- 
est growths each spring and cutting back each year the longest 
shoots to just above the preceding joint, the tree will grow so 
dense it will be impossible to see through it. The Spruces may 
be similarly handled. When planted on dry soil the Norway 
Spruce will at times be attacked by the red spider, its presence 
being betrayed by the underside of the foliage showing brown 
streaks. The simple treatment of spraying the trees (particu- 
larly the underside of the branches) with an insecticide soap, 
two sprayings, two weeks apart, will rid the trees entirely of 
spider. This soap is clean to handle and effective, diluted 
with tepid water according to directions on the container. 
This will also clean the lace fly from Rhododendrons. 
The American Arborvitae (Thuya occidentalis) will form a 
splendid hedge in a few years, and requires very little trimming, 
if any. This Arborvitae makes a clean, compact hedge, on a soil 
that is not overdry; all that is necessary being to cut back the 
— the Globe Arborvitae (Thuya globosa) is useful, being of fairly 
dwarf habit, slow growing, and not likely to become too high. 
The variety Wareana sibirica is much bushier than the Ameri- 
can Arborvitae and would be my choice where a low hedge is 
called for, as it is very hardy and retains its soft green color 
the year through. For a place not too exposed where something 
really unique is desired, 1 would advise trying the Japan Holly 
(Ilex crenata). 1 have planted this as a hedge in Connecticut 
with splendid results. The plant is irregular in growth and 
requires pruning rather than shearing— i. e. simply cutting back 
the stray shoots in spring. 
One of the most highly esteemed hedge plants, where it is 
desired to keep growth well in control, is the Yew. Of course, 
the Common, or English, Yew is not hardy with us but its 
Chinese or Japanese counterpart (Taxus cuspidata) seems to 
stand any test of climate. The slow, growing form, brevifolia, 
is espcially recommended. The spreading form of the 
European Yew (T. baccata repandens) is hardier than the type 
and has been successfully used for hedges in some places. 
Evonymus radicans vegeta, the broad-leaved Evonymus, or 
Evergreen Spindlebush, as it is sometimes called, is an 
ideal plant to use where a hedge is required to overhang a 
retaining wall. Itisbeauti- 
ful the year round, produc- 
ing in the late fall a profus- 
ion of orange-colored berries 
which last through the 
winter. 
Planting of Hedges 
A LITTLE extra time 
given to the proper 
preparation of the soil be- 
fore planting a hedge, will 
make up in results for any 
extra expenditure in labor 
at the start. One point to 
remember is that though 
you can always feed the 
A HARDY YEW HEDGE IN AMERICA 
Evidence enough of the sturdiness of Taxus cuspidata brevifolia. These 
plants are some of the seedlings discussed in Mr. Hatfield’s article last month 
tops if tney show a tendency to grow thin. ! do not advise the 
use of the golden colored Arborvitae for a hedge. 
Where a low evergreen hedge is called for — along the top of a 
terrace, in the planting of a circle, on a drive or round a fountain 
top of the soil, the only time to feed the bottom is before 
planting. 
For planting small trees the trench method is the best way. 
Dig out the soil to a depth of at least 18 in. and a width of 2 ft. 
