DWARF EVERGREENS FOR PICTORIAL RELIEF IN 
BORDER PLANTING AND BEDDING 
HENRY WILD 
Landscape Gardener and Planter 
HAVE become so used to planting the beds and bor- 
ders in our gardens to flowers that only to mention the 
P oss >bility of Evergreens for bedding is to invite dis- 
cussion. Yet the admission of Evergreens really affords 
opportunity to redeem the accustomed outlook of the garden 
during winter. 
We certainly go to extremes in our gardens. When they are 
devoted entirely to summer flowers the month of November 
invariably finds the space that has been the centre of interest 
all summer and fall now become desolate; but even gardens that 
are required for the summer months only may be greatly en- 
hanced by the introduction of a few Evergreens into the planting 
scheme, and these may be set out with advantage at this time 
of year. When planted in borders or beds, glowing color 
schemes may be attained by the golden and silver toned types 
as high-light spots with the typical green-leafed forms as a 
base. I recall the garden in which I received my first gardening 
lesson as a boy, and the impression the Evergreens there made on 
my young mind when spring came. The borders and beds were 
planted with dwarf Evergreens and bulbs. When the Cottage 
Tulips burst into bloom, I decided it was worth while being a 
gardener. First impressions count! 
Junipers and Yews 
A MONG the Junipers and the Yews the planter will find 
a number of forms suitable for use in the way of bedding, 
especially the sprawling types of Juniperus which include varie- 
ties as chinensis and striata, ideal for centre rows in small border 
planting. Chinensis is one of the light grey-green colored forms, 
while striata has many of its branches tipped with creamy white, 
an effect that is quite rare in conifers. 
The Irish Juniper is a stately, upright plant and may be used 
freely to line paths, or on corners. Japonica aurea is the best 
of the golden forms. It must be used cautiously, however, as a 
little of this color goes a long way. Juniperus sabina is a semi- 
erect form, very graceful in habit. It needs ample space for 
growth, and it is better to use some of the more sprawling types 
underneath it as a ground cover; such as the variety tamarisci- 
folia. One known as prostrata is very low growing and may be 
planted quite close to the edge of bed or path. 
The common Juniper itself (Juniperus communis) will afford 
an interesting diversion in any planting of Evergreens and will 
cover more space in less time than any other member of the 
family. This with the spreading variety of the Chinese Juniper 
known as Pfitzeriana are the best types for lawn specimens where 
wide spreading, semi-erect forms are preferred. Where the 
surroundings are semi-wild in character the Junipers lend a 
touch that blends delightfully with such an environment. Har- 
mony is something to be studied with particular thought wher- 
ever the garden has a natural setting of Cedars, Dogwoods, 
Oaks, etc. In such cases it is well to follow nature’s lead in the 
matter of simplicity and to make any artificial plantings con- 
form as much as possible to the original in character. 
The Yews are the nearest approach to our native Junipers in 
habit but differ widely in their foliage which is larger, deep 
black-green and flat. The Canadian Yew (Taxus canadensis) 
is conspicuous by its broad, spreading habit in undergrowth. 
The English Spreading Y ew (Taxus baccata repandens) is ideal for 
planting in close proximity to the residence or garden gate 
and differs from the typical English Yew only in habit. The 
Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata brevifolia) is perhaps more 
generally planted though I believe it to be no more hardy, with 
perhaps the one exception of the repandens form. [There would 
seem to be abundant evidence that the Japanese Yew is hardier 
than the European; see, for example, the article on “Raising 
Yews from Seed at Wellesley,” The Garden Magazine for 
March. Ed.]. It has one great advantage in that it will grow 
well in the shade, and is desirable on this account alone. So 
few of the Evergreens are adapted for shady environments that 
a planting of Hemlocks and Yews thriving in the shadow of 
large trees always awakens interest. 
Taxus cuspidata capitata is the most satisfactory upright 
Yew, and is interesting planted singly in such places as corners 
of paths etc. Many Yews were formerly imported every spring 
that were absolutely useless for American gardens. They were 
the common European, soft grown, dear at any price, and 
have led people to the belief that all Yews are useless for our 
gardens. 
It is remarkable that most of the dwarf forms of Evergreens 
will withstand severe climatic conditions better than the erect 
forms. This is emphasized in the Yews. The tall upright 
varieties will grow better in a group of other things, such as 
Hemlock, which acts not only as a wind break, but also as a 
shield from the bright rays of the sun. The Irish Yew, an up- 
right form of the common European, is not “soft.” 
Spring Protection from Sun 
W HERE Yews receive shade from Elm or Maple trees during 
the warmer part of the day they will survive the winter 
without any protection. Where they are growing on the south 
side of the residence or wall, receiving the full rays of the sun in 
winter, the foliage thaws out rapidly even after a zero spell and 
that is when the damage is done, in such places a spring shield 
of some sort is necessary. 
The best form of protection in a position of this kind is that 
which is given by a few boughs of Pine, Hemlock, or Cedar. The 
boughs retain their foliage well into the spring and should be 
left there until most of the foliage falls off naturally, allowing the 
sunlight to penetrate gradually. Trees or plants in artificial 
shade all winter will often suffer if uncovered on a bright day. 
It is far better to remove covering on a cloudy day. The 
Junipers will stand without protection but, if planted in late 
fall, a covering during the first winter will help a good deal. 
Dwarf Pines and Others 
T HOUGH not so numerous as the dwarf Junipers, there are 
some yet very interesting types of dwarf Pines for low 
plantings and specimens. The Mugho Pines alone will supply 
an interesting variation of types from which many may be 
selected for small beds and rock work. Even in a young stage 
the dwarf forms are conspicuous by their short growth and 
needles. 
The Swiss Stone Pine (Pinus cembra) grows in a pyramidal 
form and may be used to advantage in formal plantings where 
Cedars would be too high. This has gray-green foliage that 
contrasts well with Pinus mughus. The Japan Table Pine is a 
dwarf type of light green color, almost flat on top, and very in- 
teresting as the pollen develops. It is a form of Pinus densi- 
flora. The growth remains close to the stem and will often 
touch the ground, giving the appearance of a compact ball. 
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