206 
The Garden Magazine, May, 1921 
Prepare a bed for sowing perennials and biennials for next season’s 
garden. 
Prepare ground for summer flowering bulbs of which the Gladiolus and 
Dahlias are the most popular; Tuberous Begonias are useful for 
shady beds; the Evening Star (Cooperia Drummondii) has pure 
white flowers; Lilies include auratum, speciosum, tigrinum, etc; 
the common Day-lilies (Funkia and Hemerocallis) may be added. 
Peonies will be benefited when the buds show, by surface dressing of 
sheep manure, nitrate of soda, or liquid cow manure. 
Early Asters to go outdoors as soon as possible in well prepared ground; 
rotted barnyard manure is best, but failing this, commercial potato 
fertilizer. 
Window boxes to be repaired, and new ones made and filled as soon as 
possible. A generous compost is essential since a great number of 
plants are crowded into a limited space, and they must be well fed if 
they are to look their best right along. A layer of manure in the 
bottom of the box, with a compost of three parts good garden 
soil and one part manure mixed together, and a six-inch pot of 
bone meal to each bushel of soil will give the plants a good start. 
Lily-of-the-valley may still be planted outdoors; rather moist position 
with some shade suits best. 
It is not too late to plant Aquatics. Nymphaeas may be grown suc- 
cessfully in tanks, vats, or barrel ends in pools or sunk in the ground. 
The Frames 
These will now be fully occupied with annuals and bedding plants de- 
manding water more freely, and ample ventilation with a view to 
dispensing altogether with the sash before setting the occupants 
outdoors. As space is cleared, lightly fork over the soil and 
prepare to sow perennials, and biennials. 
Hills may be prepared, and Cucumbers of the English frame type 
sown to occupy the frames for the rest of the summer. Melons may 
be used in this way too. 
The young Carnation plants hardening in the frames may be planted 
outside. Keep well cultivated, and growths pinched, since upon 
the treatment they receive now depends to a great extent their 
success next winter. 
The Greenhouses 
Next winter’s supply of flowers must be thought of now. As soon as 
possible empty the houses of all hard-wooded plants such as Azaleas, 
Genistas, Acacias, Bougainvilleas, etc., plunging them outdoors to 
ripen their wood. 
Begonias, Gloxinias, and other flowering plants grown in the green- 
house to be well fed; Cyclamen and Primulas may be placed in 
cold frames, and slightly shaded. 
Plants of Winter-flowering Begonias need attention before they become 
pot -bound. Give a light compost made up of a good deal of flaky 
leaf-mold, good loam, screened cow manure, and sand, and a 
temperature of 60 to 62 degrees at night. 
The flowering season of Amaryllis being past, the plants may be placed 
in frames, and plunged up to the rims. Give weak liquid manure 
once a week at first and twice later on; syringe every fine day, and 
see that they are not in need of water. Any attention given 
now while making their growth will be repaid when the next 
flowering season comes. 
Gardenias should be planted early. Clean benches and a rich porous 
soil and good drainage are necessary. Syringe well every day 
after planting, to ward off insect pests and mealy bugs. A night 
temperature of 70 degrees suits. 
Stocks for winter flowering to be sown now. Princess Alice, and 
Beauty of Nice are good types. Grow cool. 
Show Pelargoniums now coming into flower will justify all the care 
given them during the next few weeks. Fumigate to keep free 
from aphis, and keep the greenhouse cool and airy, with no direct 
rays of sun on the plants. 
Bulbs of Achimenes started in heat late in March will now have made 
some growth, and two or three of the bulbs may be placed to- 
gether in pans or baskets, and gradually inured to the greenhouse, 
where they will provide a blaze of color. Light shading is neces- 
sary. 
Adiantums in large pots that were rested during the winter will now 
have a dense crop of young fronds. Any not repotted will be 
benefited by weak doses of liquid manure once a week. A little 
shade will keep the frond a dark uniform color. A. Croweanum 
and A. cuneatum require a night temperature of 60 degrees with 
70 to 75 degrees sun heat during the day. A. Farleyense requires 
from 65 to 70 degrees at night. 
Chrysanthemums for exhibition to be kept growing without a check. 
A good soil is turfy loam, with one third well rotted cow manure, 
and a sprinkling of bone meal. Do not over water, and attend to 
tying, staking, pinching, and keeping the plants free from aphis. 
Bouvardias may be planted out in loamy soil, and pinched back three 
or four times during the summer to make husky plants for lifting 
in the fall. 
Snapdragons for winter flowering to be started. 
Melons for a midseason crop to be started now. They will produce a 
crop in about 14 weeks (September); any of the English forcing 
types may be used. 
The rose benches to be cleaned out and painted with hot whitewash 
before any replanting is done. But if the plants are to be carried 
over another year, dry off gradually in order to rest them; but do 
not over-do it, or they may take a permanent rest. 
Among the Orchids 
Calanthes may be started into growth in flats of sand. Pot the bulbs 
when the roots are quite short. Pot firmly and water sparingly 
until the roots get into the soil. Another useful terrestrial Orchid is 
Phaius grandiflora, which will soon be in flower. It needs a temper- 
ature of 60 degrees at night, a good water supply, and weak cow 
manure to strengthen the flower spikes. 
Odontoglossums are now in the height of their season. The plants 
need full sun for some time longer to redden up their leaves, 
thus making them tough to withstand the heat of summer. All 
enjoy more water at the roots now. 
A temperature of 55 degrees at night is ample for them. A light 
spraying on bright days is beneficial. Protect the flower spikes 
from snails by wrapping cotton wool around the base of the spikes. 
THE CALIFORNIA REMINDER 
May and June. Now that the rains are over, irrigate regularly and 
follow up with cultivation to conserve the moisture. Sprinkling is 
worse than useless. Plant out Cannas, Dahlias, Chrysanthemums. 
Begonias, and such warmth-loving annuals as Zinnias and Celosias. 
Put in last Gladiolus for succession. Divide and replant Violets for next 
winter’s bloom. Dig up spring-flowering bulbs if the ground on which 
they are grown is needed. As the summers are so long they will keep 
better if in dry soil or sand. Prune spring-flowering deciduous 
shrubs. 
