266 
The Garden Magazine, June, 1921 
The expectation is that each of the aforementioned buds will give rise 
to a shoot capable of bearing from two to five bunches of grapes. Next 
year another series of buds — on those shoots or on the two main stems — 
will develop into other bearing shoots and so on, the fruit being borne each 
season on this year’s shoots that arose from buds formed on last year’s 
growth. In a “state of normalcy,” therefore, the vines would get 
longer and longer and the fruit would hang from the most distant 
shoots year after year, to the considerable inconvenience of one with a 
small place. The solution of the problem is the following simple re- 
newal system of pruning and training. This season, while the bearing 
shoots are growing, rub or pinch off all new shoots from the roots and 
all except two new main shoots from the crown. Let these latter 
grow up to correspond to the present arms of the Y, to a convenient 
height of, say, four feet; then pinch back their tips. After each bearing 
shoot has set its fruit clusters — not more than four or five — pinch back 
its end bud, too, to throw strength into the crop. Next winter, any 
time after the leaves have fallen, cut out the present arms of the Y — 
that is, the two branches from which arose the bearing shoots — right 
down to the crown; you will then have the other two main stems which 
you permitted to grow during the summer to replace them and pro- 
duce bearing canes next year. And so you proceed each year, raising a 
new pair of main stems to take the place of two that you cut out each 
autumn. 
Now as to supports. If the vines are planted in a row, set up firmly 
five good, stout, posts to stand about five feet high, one at each end and 
the others separated by three vines. Stretch two or three wires, about 
telephone size, tightly on the posts, one about two feet from the ground 
and the other or others each a foot higher, and let these support both 
the Y arms and the bearing shoots as they grow. By keeping the latter 
tied close to their respective wires in a systematic way you can keep 
track of their growth and know just when to nip back, spray, thin or 
do any other needful thing. 
Go easy with manures, especially cow manure, unless your soil is 
very poor and light. But the vines will appreciate wood ashes or 
muriate of potash (half a peck and a pound per plant respectively) 
worked in around them. Cultivate lightly all summer or mulch with 
lawn clippings to keep the soil moist. 
The spraying programme is simple enough and calls only for bordeaux 
mixture which may be bought in package form at any seed store and 
at some paint and drugstores, and which should be mixed with water as 
directed on the container. Or you could use your Bordo-Lead. The 
applications needed will depend upon the apparent tendency to disease; 
probably three or four will be plenty, the first soon after the fruits set 
and the others at intervals of from two to four weeks. Spray the leaves 
top and bottom while you are about it. 
Partly because one doesn’t like to apply poisons to fruit, and partly 
because most poisons don’t worry the rose chafer, about the worst in- 
sect enemy of the Grape hereabouts, the simplest and most effective 
protection against bugs, in a small vineyard, is bagging. As soon as the 
bunches set, put each one in a paper bag (quart or two-pound size 
should be ample), pin the neck tightly round the stem, and snip one 
corner of the bag off so that any water that enters may run out. This 
takes a little time, but it insures grapes of the utmost perfection. 
Generally speaking, you need not worry about Peaches and Plums 
until you see something attacking them. In any case three summer 
sprayings is usually enough; the first just after the blossoms fall (May 
ioth to 25th?), the next a month later, the third a month after that. 
There are two things you can use in as small quantities as is convenient; 
atomic sulphur, which some druggists carry, at the rate of half a pound 
to ten gallons of water; and commercial lime-sulphur which, also, can 
be bought by the package but which should be diluted with 150 parts 
of water for summer use, no matter what the directions say. Next 
winter as a precaution you can give a “dormant treatment” with the 
same at the rate of one part to nine of water, which, however, is entirely 
too strong for foliage. Meanwhile, if plant lice bother the Peaches this 
summer, try kerosene emulsion (one-inch cube of laundry soap dis- 
solved in a half pint of hot water, this to be churned violently into a 
pint of kerosene and the mixture diluted with nine parts of water be- 
fore use.) 
As already suggested, you can utilize the Bordo-Lead on your Grapes 
if needed there, or on your Apples and Pears as you suggest. I he 
chewing insects that bother the two stone fruits are few and far be- 
tween, hence the undesirability of wasting the poisonous element in the 
spray mixture on the Peaches and Plums. 
1 do not seem to recognize the Black Spot disease about which you 
ask. On the Grape, Black Rot is about the worst troublewe have. This 
calls for persistent spraying with bordeaux mixture, beginning the 
latter part of May and continuing at two-week intervals throughout the 
season. If the Grapes are not bagged it is well to change to ammo- 
niacal copper carbonate when the berries are swelling. On the stone 
fruits Brown Rot is a frequent trouble, but the removal of the diseased 
fruits is usuaHy more effective than spraying. 
Really hardy Roses of a satisfactory yellow shade are not abundant. 
However, you may be able to find what you want among these: in the 
Wichuraiana type, Aviateur Bleriot, Mrs. C. S. Sargent and Shower of 
Gold; of the rambler type. Gardenia and Hardy Marechal Niel; of the 
Hybrid Perpetual, Gloire Lyonnaise is probably the best. But why 
not try the new Hugonis which has proved so successful and attrac- 
tive in the Arnold Arboretum. If you are willing to give some winter 
protection, the following Hybrid Teas are worth while: Mrs. S. K. 
Rindge, Mrs. Aaron Ward and Sunburst. — E. L. D. Seymour, Hemp- 
stead, L. I. 
Snow in Blossom Time 
To the Editor of The Garden Magazine: 
C HERRY blossoms and snow in April — that is what the accom- 
panying photograph, taken from my porch during the freak 
snowstorm on April 1 ith, shows. The Pear and Cherry trees at the left 
and the Magnolia tree on the right were covered with pink and white 
blossoms powdered with snow. — Lidda Kay, Bayside, L. I. 
Saving the St. Regis Raspberry 
To the Editor of The Garden Magazine: 
I N YOUR department, Among Our Garden Neighbors, for March, 
1921, I note a question concerning worms found on the fruit of Red 
Raspberries of the St. Regis variety. The recommendation was made 
to control the worms by the use of clean culture and removal of the rasp- 
berry foliage. 
It is very probable that the tiny white worm is the larva of the 
American raspberry beetle Byturus Unicolor. The insect is quite 
prevalent, especially in the northern states and along the Atlantic 
seaboard. It can be easily controlled by a thorough spraying as 
the leaves are unfolding in the spring, using arsenate of lead, at least 
a pound of the powder to fifty gallons of solution. The beetle some- 
times eats through the buds, and often eats the foliage of the brambles, 
and the application of an arsenical rather late in the season will kill 
many of the beetles before egg laying commences. I hope that you will 
inform your correspondent as to this method of control. — A. S. Colby, 
University of Illinois. 
— In the March number of The Garden Magazine a lady, writing 
from New Jersey, complains of the poor spring crop of her St. Regis 
Raspberries. 
About a year ago Mr. W. H. Wolff (in The Garden Magazine) 
gave a clear and concise statement of the needs of the St. Regis; I regret 
that I have not a copy to send her. My observation of this Berry 
has led me to believe that success is spelled with the pruning knife; left to 
its own fate it will in a short time develop into a forest of canes, with 
fruit of little account. 
In this connection a few facts must be borne in mind; first that the 
spring crop of fruit develops from side shoots on the wood made the 
previous year, the fall or late crop coming from the current year’s wood. 
Six canes of each year’s growth are sufficient, making twelve in all for 
each hill. After the spiing or early June crop is over, the last year’s 
canes should be entirely cut away, leaving only the new growth for the 
fall crop. These canes should be encouraged to make a sturdy growth 
